2006 Freightliner Brinks Truck Install

[localhero800]

This is the start of my Brinks Install. My PD got a retired Brinks truck that will become our SRT truck. It will be equipped with a Code3 Defender lightbar, Feniex Rocker lights for the sides, and im not sure yet on the rear and grill.


Has anyone Ever drilled or done an install on a similar vehicle? Id like to mount a pair of scene lights on the side and rear of the box, but Im not sure how they are set up and how hard it will be to drill since they trucks are bulletproof.


Any input?

 

[txff914]

Your going to have a blast with that one. Get some good drill bits and some cutting oil to oil the drill bits with. Its been awhile since I did some work on one I'm sure someone else will chime in that has done on recently.

 

[proudfirefighter]

Big M7s on the grille and sides.


Also, no experience whatsoever drilling one of those, but that looks like a huge pain in the ***. Good luck!

 

[ClintonPSE]

I strongly recommend a drill bit set from MAC tools. They're the only major tool truck I've found that will warranty the bits you will FUBAR for life. Proper speed and feed will be the biggest challenge for the steel. A mag drill will be really useful for that truck if you can get one. HAVE FUN WITH THAT!

 

[twodogs603]

This should work. Cheaper then drill bits

 

[RES347CUE]

That's going to be fun

 

[wilsonbr90]

Mag drill will be your friend. Unless the panels are lined instead of solid.

 

[Travelin Man]

Having done several extrication classes at work using armored vehicles, we've found them some of the most difficult and challenging vehicles out there to cut and make holes on. Have a lot of high-quality bits and patience as well.

 

[GPC]

How much warning will it really need? Grill lights and a lightbar shouldn't be to bad to install but if you go to drilling into the side and back of that thing have fun.

 

[acala91]

I know we all love blinkies, but how much lighting does this thing really need? I would just go with the lightbar, some Whelen M6s or M9s in the grill then M6s or M7s to the side of the engine cowl and a big light stick to the rear on the roof, like a Feniex Cobra 800, SOS Ultralight 12, 48" Microman bar, ect... You could also see if some of those round S/T/T lights could be replaced with Whelen PAR28s.


Something I just thought of is you could possibly mount some Whelen M series over top of the existing holes for the S/T/T lights using a piece of flat aluminum and some 3M body molding tape.

 

[NPS Ranger]

Um, a throw light will do ya fine.


Seriously, install some grill lights & HLF, put HAW's in the front amber lights, replace the rear upper & side tire-level red lights with grommet-mount LED emergency lights, and you're good to go with no drilling. You might be able to avoid a lightbar with some upper windshield LED's and a set of side LED's in the center rectangular side window.


I would avoid drilling holes, but if you insist I would suggest welding on some DOT-style light housings and using those to mount lights, that way you only need I hole for wiring.

 

[LED]

Lose those 2 higher mounted stop tail turn lights. Mount something like this: Chrome Dual Square Headlight Bezel - 4 State Trucks over the hole with self tapping screws and install like a LED work light and LED flashing side by side. Feed the wiring through the light hole and feed following stock wiring (snake it).. Now the front. It's not bullet-proof, simply an international shell. Route through firewall, get some vehicle specific mounts for that older international grill and sides. Get rid of the lightbar idea, too much work and too many headaches drilling.

 

[pdk9]

Awww man! I was hoping that I was still a 10-8 brinks truck and that you'd "accidentally" happen to provide your fellow ELBers some details about it & it's future schedule!!!


I would recommend against the rocker panel lights; I think that they won't add much during the daytime. To be honest, I'd set it up like a basic ambo...


--2 large grill lights, colored lenses


--2 intersection lights, colored lenses


--2 large surface mounts per side (upper box), colored lenses


--2 scene lights per side (upper box next to surface mounts)


--4 large surface mounts to rear (2 upper, 2 lower), colored lenses. No TA needed, unless the IC is an idiot that would dedicate his APC to perimeter traffic control (instead of a road/patrol unit)


--HLF. Luckily for you, FL. & Intl. trucks are so common as commercial chassis fire/rescue vehicles that it won't be hard to get one that's compatible


If you don't have the defender get, I'd go with a less expensive lightbar that is depopulated to the rear (which nobody will see); otherwise, I u have it already, I'd look to sell the rear mods as a few more bucks in the piggy bank. Another alternative to a cheaper LED bar is going with an edge; I don't know of many SWAT/SRT trucks that roll code 3 frequently, do I don't think you'd have to worry about replacing strobes much, and the most important lights on a truck like this (IMHO) are the perimeter lights b/c they'll see the grill lights a lot sooner than they'll see a lightbar.


As far as tools you'll need for the install, you'll need some hurst cutters, an oxyacetylene torch, a sledge hammer, some C4, & a jackhammer for mounting the roof lightbar. Not worries though...all of these tools can be found in aisle 18 of your local Lowes ;-)

 

[Kbonk15]

Having done several extrication classes at work using armored vehicles.

I would be more worried about the other car....

 

[lafd55]

Plasma cutter, lol.

 

[NJEMT]

Can you mount 2 pole lights to the rear of the truck? Gives you both side and rear scene and smaller holes to drill to mount the supports


like Havis Pole Mount Scene Lights

 

[Solvarex]

Hah! Having worked for those clowns in years gone by I can fully attest to the penny pinching cheapness of the company and how they buy the worst crap available. Employee safety is a joke to them, the trucks are barely bullet resistant. Handguns and shotguns a no-go but any rifle will slice through that stuff no problem. Luckily I never had to find out the hard way. Glad I'm not in that BS job anymore.


Good carbide bits, low drill speed, and cutting fluid. Your biggest issues will be routing the wiring inside cleanly as the interior is fully steel too, but self-drilling screws, loom, and some clips will do you as it's just sheet metal inside.


Lightbar will be useless mounted that high. Surface mounted lights like an ambulance as someone else mentioned will be far more effective. You aren't doing pursuits or high speed driving in this thing and if it has to respond solo without an escort, your department is doing it wrong.


Depending on fit use M7 or M9 style lights on the grille, above the windshield, sides and rear. Little more is required or necessary save for perhaps some side lights on the hood for intersections. You need to show presence, not blind drivers so they collide with you. Don't get caught up in whackerizing this thing that you forget its intended purpose.

 

[dawson75]

velcro is your friend

 

[Travelin Man]

I would be more worried about the other car....

Ha, I know what you mean. It was a great opportunity for us to do some heavy duty breaching and breaking while learning the construction of armored cars. The long and short of it was the use of the plasma cutter for most areas of the vehicle. An abrasive blade on the rotary saw worked on a handful of areas, but was very slow.

 

[Kbonk15]

Ha, I know what you mean. It was a great opportunity for us to do some heavy duty breaching and breaking while learning the construction of armored cars. The long and short of it was the use of the plasma cutter for most areas of the vehicle. An abrasive blade on the rotary saw worked on a handful of areas, but was very slow.

Yeah I can only imagine it must of taken at least 45 minutes to a hours just to get a door off. And I was gonna say a plasma cutter and a K12 with a metal blade would your best bet for cutting one of those up! I am going to have to look into getting a old armor car to do a jaws demo for my dept, like you said you have to be creative to cut one of those up!

 

[minig0d]

Honestly I'd just use a lot of surface mounted lights with 3m tape. Then you only need to drill one hole per head for the wire. I don't believe the entire truck is bulletproof. The flashing area between the roof and side walls probably isn't as reinforced as the sides so if you mount the lights near there you may get lucky and drill on side or the ballistic panels.

 

[nerdly_dood]

You might get lucky if you call the manufacturer, they could have some hints about some spots where it might be easier to mount a light. Or see if you can't just ditch the Defender and use an interior lightbar instead so you don't have to drill through as much armor.


edit: Here's an idea... You've got three (or more, depending on how they're mounted) very convenient holes in the front of the roof, for the DOT lights. Maybe you could throw together a frame to mount the Defender using them, and if you feel the need to still use DOT lights just put them underneath.

 

[dawson75]

just some ideas .....

 

[twodogs603]

Put a M9 in each side and rear window, and a vertex in each gun porthole :hahano:

 

[kitn1mcc]

Dont they use aluminum in some parts of the body

 

[Station 3]

If the truck has ballistic panels inside then it will be easy but if its ballistic steal then get some good drill bits lol


also just buy a lightbar and install a flasher on the tail lights and maybe some wig wags or hide away leds you don't need it to be seen from space im sure it will not run code to any calls ever and more than likely will be escorted to calls.

 

[CovertRam]

I say leave it the way it is...... exactly the way it is. Bad guys wouldn't have a clue what's going on when tactical guys jump out of the truck

 

[jhallgren22]

I say leave it the way it is...... exactly the way it is. Bad guys wouldn't have a clue what's going on when tactical guys jump out of the truck

I like this idea. :thumbsup:

 

[minig0d]

Run all exterior wires on the outside of the truck and tape them down neatly with aluminum foil tape (the thick strong stuff (not duct tape). No drill install. (And again use 3m tape to mount the light)

 

[Storm4200]

-Lightbar


-HLF


-TLF


-a few Pioneers.


not many holes, more than efficient.


while i would love to see it loaded with M9s and M7s, i dont think its necessary on this truck.

 

[kinnelonfire75]

Hah! Having worked for those clowns in years gone by I can fully attest to the penny pinching cheapness of the company and how they buy the worst crap available. Employee safety is a joke to them, the trucks are barely bullet resistant. Handguns and shotguns a no-go but any rifle will slice through that stuff no problem. Luckily I never had to find out the hard way. Glad I'm not in that BS job anymore.

Good carbide bits, low drill speed, and cutting fluid. Your biggest issues will be routing the wiring inside cleanly as the interior is fully steel too, but self-drilling screws, loom, and some clips will do you as it's just sheet metal inside.


Lightbar will be useless mounted that high. Surface mounted lights like an ambulance as someone else mentioned will be far more effective. You aren't doing pursuits or high speed driving in this thing and if it has to respond solo without an escort, your department is doing it wrong.


Depending on fit use M7 or M9 style lights on the grille, above the windshield, sides and rear. Little more is required or necessary save for perhaps some side lights on the hood for intersections. You need to show presence, not blind drivers so they collide with you. Don't get caught up in whackerizing this thing that you forget its intended purpose.

So if drill bits aren't your thing, try using a rifle to make those pilot holes for the screws!

 

[Station 3]

So if drill bits aren't your thing, try using a rifle to make those pilot holes for the screws!

Its armored for a reason..... If its ballistic steel those rifle rounds will just turn to dust when they impact the damn truck.

 

[minig0d]

Its armored for a reason..... If its ballistic steel those rifle rounds will just turn to dust when they impact the damn truck.

Sounds like an excuse to go get some armor piercing rounds and try em out! Of course you either have to have really great aim or be happy with wherever the bullet hits then.

 

[localhero800]

We already have the defender.... But may trade it. Who knows. Surface mount is what I'm looking at. We are looking for scene lights also. May do a warning bar up high on the rear and something down low. Scene lighting for rear and sides are my worry.

 

[randys14]

Updates on this??

 

[Sparky_911]

Magnet mount some LED scene lights to the roof on an adjustable bracket....if its used for patrol or rapid response then a bar should do.  If its only used for details or 5 and less times a year then just light up the nose area (no armor), something in the front window just for fun and PAR 36s in the rear. Just my 2 pennies.