2009 crew cab F-150 mounting suggestions?

[NERT11]

Hey y'all,


Wondering if anyone has photos or suggestions for mounting two Feniex Cobra 200's in the back window of a 2009 crew cab F-150. The alternative is to mount them on the backrack, but I'm trying to keep them inside if I can. If I can mount them inside, I can just run the wires under the door sills with with rest of the wires.


I'm also looking at mounting either a cobra T6, or a 100 in the rear door windows for side lighting, but that mounting option is pretty straightforward.


Any help would be much appreciated,


Thanks

 

[NERT11]

While this topic is still new, if anyone has any switch box ideas in this truck too, I'd also be appreciative of info or photos

 

[Jamey@NNE]

If you are using just a switch box the front center on the lower dash is a decent spot to mount to. the cupholders that come out the middle almost reach it but they dont hit. brackets I would make a bracket to go under the rear hooks on the headliner like a front visor does.

 

[NERT11]

I should have elaborated a little more. I currently use a Feniex Haleo 500 switch..... plate? In the 2009 F-150 XLT, there is the push in/push out ashtray that has a plastic insert in it. I took that plastic insert out, cut off about a quarter inch from the bottom of the haleo and it slides in perfectly, and holds itself in place. There is a hole in the bottom of the tray that the wires can run through. This is nice due to the fact that you can just lift the switches out to add or re-wire, and you can open or close the tray to hide the switches if you so wish.


My truck is going to have two different purposed lighting now though. I'm going to have fire POV lights, and amber/white lights as the company vehicle. My switches are full already so I was looking to possibly upgrade to the new Feniex controller or similar, or my other consideration was the 10 switch box that Jared has for sale


*****************.com - SVP Lighted 10 Switch Box

 

[Steve0625]

Wondering if anyone has photos or suggestions for mounting two Feniex Cobra 200's in the back window of a 2009 crew cab F-150. The alternative is to mount them on the backrack, but I'm trying to keep them inside if I can. If I can mount them inside, I can just run the wires under the door sills with with rest of the wires.

This is the rear window of my '12 F-250. The light bar is an old style Rocket-X 8 head T/A, but what's important is that it has the rear mounting bolt setup, same as the Cobras. The two silver colored "T" brackets are standard Simpson Strong Tie straps available at any home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowes. The only mods to the "T" straps are a couple of holes for the mounting screws under the tan Ford clothing hooks, enlarging existing holes in the straps for the 1/4-20 bolts on the back of the Rocket-X, and some slight bending to get the bar nice and level in the window.





Here's a close up of one of the "T" straps:





When I get a few other things completed on the truck, I'll pull these straps and paint them black to match the Rocket-X.

 

[pdk9]

I would go with a brookings 990...very slim switch box and can fit in most places.


A while back, I installed a motorola CDM remote head on top the slide out cup holders to avoid holes on the dash.


Also, beneath the center console box is a great place to store a flasher and control box...there's a lot of space under the storage box in the center console and then you cover it right back up without comprising/losing any space.


As far as headliners go, it's amazing what a few self-tapping screws and L-brackets from lowes or Home Depot can do for you.


What else do you have so far?

 

[NERT11]

This is what I have as far as mounting grill lights, as well as my makeshift mounting area for the haleo 500. Like I mentioned, I'm considering upgrading to a bigger box/unit. I forgot about the Velcro stick on's I had put in the tray before I trimmed the Haleigh down to keep it from popping out. With the plate trimmed, it sits in there no problem.

 

[NERT11]

This is the rear window of my '12 F-250. The light bar is an old style Rocket-X 8 head T/A, but what's important is that it has the rear mounting bolt setup, same as the Cobras. The two silver colored "T" brackets are standard Simpson Strong Tie straps available at any home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowes. The only mods to the "T" straps are a couple of holes for the mounting screws under the tan Ford clothing hooks, enlarging existing holes in the straps for the 1/4-20 bolts on the back of the Rocket-X, and some slight bending to get the bar nice and level in the window.

View attachment 47373


Here's a close up of one of the "T" straps:


View attachment 47374


When I get a few other things completed on the truck, I'll pull these straps and paint them black to match the Rocket-X.

This is excellent! I'm going to be aiming to go with this. Thanks a million for your input

 

[mike]

brookings br 990 will fit the lower cubby hole below the usb plug like it was made to fit there. google te video on how to take apart the dash to remove the radio and you cn remove the lower cubby hole with just a few screws. there is not alot of room to do wiring behind the dash. i had to run all of my wire behind the back seat and do all of my connections back there. google removing back seat of 2011 f150 and the video shows you how to remove the back seat. the hhs2200 is the way to go as far as a controller goes

 

[NERT11]

Thanks to everybody who has kindly offered tips and suggestions so far. I now have a new challenge. Are there any alternatives to the firewall, for running wires in to the cab of the truck, such as a grommet at the back of the cab? I tried to poke my head around to check, but I can't find anything from inside, and with the melt, my driveway is slop right now.


Thanks!

 

[Eric1249]

Sho-Me makes a pretty small switch box.


Able 2 Sho-Me Undercover Siren with Remote Mini Controller 30.2515, 31.2515


It is the same size as the siren above but it has 8 switches.

 

[mike]

pop the passenger side rear cable access tray at the door jamb off by just pulling it up with a prybar. there is a grommet there that exits to the underside of the truck. run the wire through the hole wrapped in loom, run the cable under the truck and tuck the cable inbetween the frame and the fabric of the wheel well. this enters next the the battery and gives you access to the front of the truck.

 

[NERT11]

Thanks Mike!


I'm going to take a walk out to the truck and have a look now