2009 Dodge Charger Police Activation factory H/L & T/L Flash

[nylawman]

I recently acquired a 2009 Dodge Charger (Police). It's factory H/L and T/L flashing function were never activated. A knowledgeable Whelen rep reported that the Whelen "PIM" module they designed to adapt for that purpose may be no longer available. Other upfitters have reported that merely splicing wires, inserting diodes and switching, etc, would activate the desired wig-wag headlights and taillights - One suggested that Chrysler's onboard system limits use to all 4 (heads and tails) or nothing with no way to seperate their operation. My CVPI's were so simple. Ideally I would prefer to activate H/L's and T/L's seperately and not necessarily "jerryrig" anything that could potentially damage the reportedly hypersensitive electrical system or void any warrantee.


Does anyone have any suggestions or solutions??

 

[EVModules]

Check our two different modules we have available for your vehicle. I think the EVM-DCIM3e will be a good fit for you and you can tap more functions previously made unavailable.


It's at www.evmodules.com

 

[cory y]

If all you want is the flashers you don't need any diodes or aftermarket modules. (Sorry sean)


If you want the front lights to flash apply plain ol 12v to PIN 1 of the large white PTIM connector that's in the center console.


If you want the rear lights to flash, apply 12v to pin 2 of the same connector.


Nothing special is needed.

 

[code4services.com]

The EVModule would be the easiest, but if all you need is the HLF and TLF you can cut the Brown/Orange-pin 1 (head light flasher turn-on) and Brown/Violet-pin 2 (tail light flasher turn-on) out of the PTIM and apply +12 volts to these wires to activate function.


Page 66 and 67 of link below should help.


http://www.wattco.net/infopdf/2010dodge/PoliceUpfittingGuide2006-2010.pdf

 

[nylawman]

Thanks guys.


Happy New Year.


Charlie

 

[HILO]

If all you want is the flashers you don't need any diodes or aftermarket modules. (Sorry sean)

If you want the front lights to flash apply plain ol 12v to PIN 1 of the large white PTIM connector that's in the center console.


If you want the rear lights to flash, apply 12v to pin 2 of the same connector.


Nothing special is needed.

Plus one on that.


I understand the desire to make money, however I have not read anything the modules do that the package car does not provide for at $20.00.

 

[EVModules]

HILO, there are numerous features that are not possible just by applying 12vdc to certain wires. The original intent to design the modules was to make my installers job easier and faster when we're dealing with a fleet of vehicles. $20 in parts and at least 2 hours of labor at $75 an hour to use only SOME the features that are already standard vehicle upfit options with all other vehicle was a real problem in our shop since our customers expect the same features they were accustomed to from their other vehicles. Let's look at three key things. Cost, knowledge, and features.


Cost - As mentioned earlier, 2 hours plus parts to get some of the features can easily get expensive quickly for just the basic options. Time is also another key factor. The entry level installer with little understanding of electronic theory can utilize any of the features. There are far and few professional upfitters who can get any of the features quickly and within budget. The modules also cuts down installation times (which equals money) and parts. If you can do not only HLF & TLF, but true horn ring connections, and park kill (both siren & HLF) in a vehicle equipped with dual tone, grill and corner lights in less than 10 minutes every time, I'd love to talk to you if it cost less than $100 bucks.


Knowledge - I don't provide just the modules, I also removed the complexity of getting the right signals to meet the needs of the customers. Many have appreciated these modules, with one calling it an "installer in a box" since the guesswork was done for them.


Features - Besides the HLF (non-park kill) & TLF which can be operated with just 12vdc,

• Horn ring - connections had to be connected up front and that required running an extra pair of wiring besides the 6 already there that were already spoken for for other uses. The circuit provided made it impossible for anyone to use with their sirens when connected directly and automatically. The modules provides traditional connection methods like other vehicles. As a bonus, it provides both positive or negative horn ring connections to accommodate just about every siren.
  
  
• Park kill - Every vehicle we did required a park kill for siren and lights like HLF's. The modules provide a ground sense park kill and the option to tie in the HLF to the park kill with a flick of the switch on the module.
  
  
• VSS - Some radar & camera equipment needed a stronger signal than what the vehicle originally provided. A stronger 500 mA signal is provided to address this issue.
  
  
• Dimmer - amplifies PWM signals, connects directly to equipment requiring panel lighting.
  
  
• Brake sense - amplifies the brake signal for video systems.
  
  
• Dual am/fm radio audio mute inputs - Mutes the am/fm whenever one of the two audio wires picks up audio signals from radios, scanners, computer, etc. It can holds mute for a few seconds after the signal was last detected before un-muting.
  
  
• Accessory & audio connectors - Provided as a courtesy since not every vehicle is supplied with them.
  

My clients who stock them in their shop were able to OFFER more features and savings than their competitors when it comes to bid times, just as I have always offered to my boss' customers when I was an upfitter back in 2006 when the Chargers hit the streets.

 

[HILO]

I still don't get the advantage. One still has to connect wires, so an extra few steps hardly seems with a hundred dollars. Horn ring is easy with existing wires, park kill works just fine, as does the computer, and cams used in my area. Again, good for you trying to make money, it just seems scummy, like some shady car dealer. I suppose its like selling nitrogen in car tires, no benefit to the customer, but if you can sell it, might as well. There is one born ever minute.

 

[EVModules]

I still don't get the advantage. One still has to connect wires, so an extra few steps hardly seems with a hundred dollars. Horn ring is easy with existing wires, park kill works just fine, as does the computer, and cams used in my area. Again, good for you trying to make money, it just seems scummy, like some shady car dealer. I suppose its like selling nitrogen in car tires, no benefit to the customer, but if you can sell it, might as well. There is one born ever minute.

HILO,


I'm sorry that you don't see the big picture of the installation process with regards to costs and features that concerns many customers and upfitters can easily identify. As a professional upfitter, I often get requests for features to meet their needs and I try by looking for products that will serve them. Sometimes they are available, but when they are not, they were willing to pay for those features so I come up with many of them, one of them which is the Dodge Interface module for a dealer. It simply got to the point where I was working to meet the demand than I had time to be an upfitter so I made the jump because I enjoy it just the same as working on cars.


I resent your comment equating me as a "shady" car dealer. My reputation is all here, along with my full name and company name so as to remove all doubt, or "shadiness" about myself.


I'm also sorry that you'd decide to take a swing at my reputation when it was uncalled for and unprofessional. If you're ready to be a gentleman, I'd still like to hear as to what you can do for $20. By the way, I never caught your name or who you work for, may I ask? I feel silly calling you "HILO".

 

[EmerVehSolutions]

I'll side with Sean on this one, sure its easy to crimp a few extra butt connectors, but when you have a product is tested and works great and also one that helps installers get customers the most out of their vehicles, then I am all for it.


But hey ... thats just my $.02

 

[code4services.com]

I'll side with Sean on this one, sure its easy to crimp a few extra butt connectors, but when you have a product is tested and works great and also one that helps installers get customers the most out of their vehicles, then I am all for it.
But hey ... thats just my $.02

+100


Sure, a lot of the features are possible without the mod. Anyone other than a master installer would save time and gain consistency and performance by using the mod. thus making the extra money spent by the customer well worth it.

 

[PJD642]

I'm just an end user who dabbles in some minor installations, but whomever came up with the idea for an auto-mute for the AM/FM radio whenever there is traffic on the police radio deserves a raise!


If I had a charger I'd buy one of those modules in a heartbeat.

 

[cpdchief]

I'm just an end user who dabbles in some minor installations, but whomever came up with the idea for an auto-mute for the AM/FM radio whenever there is traffic on the police radio deserves a raise!

If I had a charger I'd buy one of those modules in a heartbeat.

Something like this...

?

 

[HILO]

The radio mute function is factory.


Sean, I am sorry you dont like my being critical of your product. However it is my opinion, and I am free to voice it. Perhaps I am not understanding the concept. Did I miss the part where the modeul jumps in the car and wires its self? No...so it matters not if I use your module or the pin connector from Dodge, I am still having to connect wires. Right? So if I want the HLF, TLF, Horn Ring, and lights on the push bumper, and use the Dodge plug kit, I connect activation to the plugs inside the car (from the switch box that is), HLF and TLF are on! Track what wires I want to use from the plug inside the car to the grill, and connect those 2 for the lights on the push bumper, and loop one for the horn ring to a horn. Now I have horn ring, HLF, TLF, and a dominator with 4 TIR 3's on the push bumper. I'm done there. With your module, aside from the 45 sec. loop on the horn, what steps do I not have to make?


Oh, I will take back my used car salesman snark, that was rather rude. But it just came off wrong in my mind to try and sell someone something when they asked about a simple factory function accessed by 2 wires. Cory Y responded with the correct method, and it cost nothing.


On the subject of who is who, I have been on message boards going back to 1996. I have had the same email address for almost as long. If I choose to make my name public, it is my choice. Same as if you choose to. I have nothing to sell, so I have no need to put any of my information out.

 

[C2Installs]

Sean and I have had lengthy discussions regarding his modules. He has solicited and received my most honest feedback. I have used and will continue to use his products as they are suitable to a particular application. I agree that simple headlight and taillight flashing on the Charger is doable without the module, but I have found the module useful for other reasons, as well as to run interference with the known problems with Dodge's PTIM. By using the module, I create a simple take-out if problems occur...it is plug and play and allows for isolation of the problem. See Dodge generally won't own up to PTIM problems if they can avoid it.


HiLo...it seems you've had a beef with Sean for some time. He is frank and straight forward and believes in his product. You look at it as an unneeded or superfluous add-on module, he looks at it as a method for consistent performance results. Disagreement is fine, but you seem to get nasty and take it more personal than Sean, who has actually had the courage to invest in his ideas. The world is full of products that may or may not be needed. While I think Sean's Charger Modules serve a legitimate need in the industry, why should it matter to you if it doesn't? Let the buyer beware, regardless. I hardly think Sean is trying to mislead anyone. Besides, IMO, if the original poster couldn't figure it out without asking here or using the search feature or reading any of the articles out there or checking the upfitter's guide, or other method, perhaps a plug and play module with clear instructions, a warranty and available customer support is a good choice. That's not meant as a dig against him, just an observation.


As for whether of not you choose to be candid about who you are on the web, you're certainly correct that it is your choice. But a certain amount of credibility is missing when you are anonymous. And it makes your opinions and negative remarks all that more questionable, IMO. Sean's right about the fact that he puts himself out there and stands behind his product and reputation. We know he is intelligent from his posts, knowledge, and success. We know he is trustworthy because he doesn't hide behind a screen name.


And shady? Puhleeeezzeee. Compared to what? I mean damn, at least take some shots at the multiple purveyors of off-shore, knock-off crap that is hawked so openly on this board before you go after Sean. Talk about useless crap...


That's how I see it, and my name, business name, professional background etc. is no secret here either. Well, not if you've paid attention, anyway. Have a gud'un!

 

[EVModules]

HILO,


You haven't addressed the park kill (both siren & lights), horn ring (when all of the 6 accessory wires are used) to name a few. I should also have pointed this out earlier in our conversation, We've always have the upfitter's guide available on our website. http://evmodules.com/supplemental.html


If there's anything else I can do for you, please feel free to contact me at sean@evmodules.com.


PJD642,


The audio mute isn't my idea but I've used a version in the past that's tied to either the mic or lights. Dodge did have this built in but the problem was using it effectively and automatically since it requires a static input from the vehicle operator. I simply enhanced it by designing a circuit to sense audio traffic from one or two separate audio sources, muting it and giving the option of delay on anywhere from 0 to 6 seconds. In other words, set at 6 seconds for example, it won't turn the radio back on until it "hears" 6 seconds of continuous silence.


One is in the works for other vehicles which will allow you to use the front door speakers for both 2-way and factory radio. Switches automatically and has a fail-safe redundancy system where it reverts to 2-way audio if the module looses power or malfunctions for officer safety reasons. A bonus 12vdc input mutes the radio which allows the unit to tie in to lighting systems for example to mute the am/fm during a traffic stop, pursuit, etc. This is one of the modules being created to satisfy the needs of both the officers and administrators.


C2Installs, PJD642, code4services, EmerVehSolutions,


Thank you for your comments.

 

[nylawman]

I actually missed most of the above exchanges re modules developed to maximize available factory options of the Dodge Charger Police.... My upfitter, using the Police Accessory Manual and an upfitters manual he received from Chrysler, wired the H/L and tail lights to flash (seperately as I requested). I notice, however, that they have failed to activate on several occasions. They are wired into my Whelen Cencom, both on individual switches and on slide-bar stage 1 (rear), 2 (front) and 3 (both), respectively. Before I had to check fuses, I noticed that by turning off the ignition and re-starting the vehicle, the headlight and taillight flasher functions were restored. Charlie

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

Something like this...

That's freakin awesome!!!

 

[spymaster2222]

I recently acquired a 2009 Dodge Charger (Police). It's factory H/L and T/L flashing function were never activated. A knowledgeable Whelen rep reported that the Whelen "PIM" module they designed to adapt for that purpose may be no longer available. Other upfitters have reported that merely splicing wires, inserting diodes and switching, etc, would activate the desired wig-wag headlights and taillights - One suggested that Chrysler's onboard system limits use to all 4 (heads and tails) or nothing with no way to seperate their operation. My CVPI's were so simple. Ideally I would prefer to activate H/L's and T/L's seperately and not necessarily "jerryrig" anything that could potentially damage the reportedly hypersensitive electrical system or void any warrantee.


Does anyone have any suggestions or solutions??

Can anyone offer support on how to accomplish this on a 2007 Dodge Charger Police? I have sent a request to EV modules for parts, but would like to experiment with jumpers first. I am concerned that 07 and 09 are different and do not want to blow up a customer's car wiring. I would love a link to the 07 upfitter's guide on this car. THANKS