2014 Ram 1500 POV


Here is my 2014 Ram 1500 Crew Cab POV install. This project has taken me almost a year to get this far. It is not done yet but I wanted to post what I have done so far to pass some info on for others looking to install on their Rams.

Here is a list of what is currently installed:

Whelen PAP112 with 100W SA314 speaker in grill.

Whelen Front HALO system in Amber/Blue

Whelen Rear HALO system in Red/Red

Motorola Wildcard switch box with relay box.

12 position fuse box with ground connections.

1 On/Off/On switch for horn transfer of airhorn.

I have 2 extra wires in grill for future add ons. (Whelen ION Duo in Blue/Amber)

I have 1 extra wire in rear for possible Cannon retrofit into reverse lights (White/Blue)

I have 1 extra wire in rear for possible Feniex T6 under tailgate. (Amber)

Extras are there in case I move to a town I can volunteer in. I am career FF and live in a city that is also fully career and surrounding towns are either combination or fully career. Union highly discourages volunteering in a city/town that is also unionized. So until I move I will not be volunteering. OR if I dont end up volunteering I can use them for auxilary illumination for off road LED cubes or the like.

My truck is all computer controlled/monitored with CanBus. It is a pain in the a** to work on. I had to add resitors to all four parking lamps, and all 4 turn/brake lamps to stop the EVIC from throwing bulb out warnings and hyper flashing.


I used one 10G 30 amp main power feed. Connection is made at the battery, run through a 30A fuse and then to a 30amp relay. Relay is triggered using OEM recommended feed at the fuse box under the hood. All conections and relay are weather proof.

I used weatherpack connectors where appropriate.

All splicing was used with appropriate sized heat shrink butt connectors.

All wiring was sized approriatly for its recommended use.

10G negative from 12 position fuse box to closest factory chasis ground.

Motorola wildcard is connected to the relay box using negative switching from front cupholder area to rear cab wall behind rear seat. I made this cable myself using the common inputs and N.O contacts from the DB25 connector on rear of switch box. Backlighting is also through this cable and is connected to fuse box behind rear seat.






Front and rear HALO installation:

The OEM wiring was cut behind the housings and weatherpack connectors were installed. Same connectors were used for HALO wiring. Male and female connectors were mated up in a way that lets me put truck back to stock without changing connectors again. It was on the HALO input wiring that I attached the resistors and mounted the resistors to metal to help dispipate the heat. Doing it this way also helps when/if i need to switch back to OEM incandescent bulbs. I filled the rear of the weatherpack connectors with silicone for added safety and used dielectric grease in the connector also.



The front HALO wasnt to bad to install. The grill and headlights were removed. I mounted the brains on the upper radiator support towards the passanger side facing to the rear of the vehicle. The brain box has "weatherproof" connectors. I made sure seals and connectors were clean and used dielectric grease on contacts to help combat corrosion.

The rear HALO system had to be mounted inside the cab. Cables were extended and ran from rear tail lights following OEM wire harness down drivers side frame rail and into the cab under the rear seat. I ran the extra wires for future add ons with the HALO wiring and encompassed them all into wire loom. Both HALO systems are connected directly to the battery and fused appropriatly. I wanted to do it this way so that when I locked or unlocked my doors I would still maintain the light flash. I dont use the horn beep with lock or unlock feature because I find it annoying. So I wanted to maintain some visualization that the truck is locked or unlocked when I press the key FOB.




All front wiring (front HALO trigger, extra front wire, battery feed, horn transfer, rear HALO battery feed, speaker wire) were ran together in 1 wire loom from underhood down frame rail and into cab on driver side under the rear seat. This entered next to the loom for the rear. I drilled appropriate sized hole and used rubber gromets and sealed with silicone.

Rear seat was fully removed and mounting location was chosen. I needed a spot to mount the fuse box, rear HALO brain, Airhorn brain, and relay box for wildcard switches. I mounted all equipment onto ply wood and cut the sound proofing to match the size of plywood on rear wall of cab. Plywood stand offs were glued onto rear wall. I used heavy duty velcro to mount plywood to the stand offs. All wiring was completed here and seat was re-istalled. I can access the fuse box by folding down rear seat.




I temporarily hooked up Front and Rear HALO systems so I can shoot the videos. Once video's were taken I unhooked the triggers from the switch box to be legal. Since i am not currently a member I can not run blue. And Red is only for chiefs and their designees. So that will not be hooked up either for warning.

I had the airhorn installed in my previous truck from my volunteering days and loved its attention getting ability. I will probably never get rid of it. Just keep moving it from truck to truck. Until something else new and attention getting comes along. The Ram OEM horn is weak and the sound it produces makes me think compact car and not a truck.

I mounted the speaker in the front grill with the universal bracket. It is unobstructed. I used all stainless steel hardware and treated the holes I drilled in mounting cross bar to prevent corrosion. I painted everything flat black to blend have it blend in more.

Once it was all connected and installed I noticed that the truck does not like the HALO systems. In the front I get a flickering on the parking light circuit only. In the rear I get a flicker on the Turn/Brake circuit ony. I do not get a flicker with the warning though. This flickers enough that I can not use the secondary pattern for the HALO (flicker/steady). The factory input wiring flickers enough to keep tripping the HALO into the start of the "flicker/steady" pattern and causes the system to just flicker. This makes the front turn signals and rear brake lights look like the comet pattern. This negates the only reason I wanted to rear HALO system. So i will probably remove the systems until I can figure out how to stop it.

I know many of you will say just install the cannons in the front and rear but I didnt want to drill any holes. Wanted to return it to stock if need be. I am stubborn when it comes to some things. I wanted the HALO system. I wanted not to drill lightheads into headlights and taillights. I wanted to stay clean and stealth. The housings are basically clear unobstructed plastic. They do not have any fluting to them. I didnt want to look into the housing and see an extra bulb in the reflector. Wanted it to look OEM. I am stubborn enough that I am bound and determined to get these sytems to work on the truck. I will not let them beat me. I have loved the Whelen HALO since they came out. I could never find any for sale that were either the right color combination or reasonably priced until about a year and a half ago. I actually found and bought both systems prior to buying the truck in anticipation of installing them in my new truck.

Here is a video clip.

I have learned alot from the members on this site! I used my previous knowledge and wiring ability and upgraded a few things from people on here. I Also want to thank a few members for their help and advice. 1 lives close by and actually came to my house to help me with the HALO systems.  You both know who you are and it it is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for looking. I will update in the future when/if i add more.
Last edited by a moderator:


Yea. After I write the whole post I tried to upload the videos and couldn't. At that moment I said to myself well this post is almost useless without videos.


Added a video. First time I shot and uploaded a video.

Direct sunlight about 20 feet out. Front doesnt show very well. You can sort of see the "flickering" I am talking about. I will try and shoot a close up soon to show that better.

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