You have any info on the relay box? Looks like I have to do the same thing but have no idea how to do that. Thanks in advance!
4200 Mini
- Thread starter Carlos SpicyWeiner
- Start date
You have any info on the relay box? Looks like I have to do the same thing but have no idea how to do that. Thanks in advance!
wilsonbr90
Member
Instead of powering pin 30 on the relay, you hook it to ground. Take the output of the 4200 and that goes to pin 86. Ground pin 85 then use pin 87 as your signal to the siren
wilsonbr90
Member
I feel like I am even more lost than before. Is this something you buy or build? Do you have to put one on each wire you want to run for the siren?
StEaLtH2
Member
Wilson's diagram is showing you the "pinout" on a standard automotive relay. The relay will have numbers exactly like his pic shows, and he is showing how to wire it up to make it a negative trip relay. Normally you would trip the relay with a positive trigger... You can configure the relay to add power or ground upon activation. Any clearer?
StEaLtH2
Member
This is a relay, if you look closely, you can see the #85 spade at the very top. The others will all be numbered, his graph depicts how you would need to wire it to provide a ground upon tripping the relay. Hope this helped
LED138
Member
Will there or can there be one of these made with a multi-position slide switch? I personally think that a smaller controller with that option would be nice.
-Steve
-Steve
I have a couple questions about this switch box...
Does the on/off button act as a master for this unit? When it is in the off position, the power is cut and buttons do not stay backlit, correct? I am hoping this can be directly wired to the battery and not ignition switched power.
And also, will buttons stay in the "on" position when the power is turned off? What I mean is, if I have lights wired to the 4200, I turn them on, then turn the power button off, when I turn it back on, will the lights activate without activating each individual switch again?
Does the on/off button act as a master for this unit? When it is in the off position, the power is cut and buttons do not stay backlit, correct? I am hoping this can be directly wired to the battery and not ignition switched power.
And also, will buttons stay in the "on" position when the power is turned off? What I mean is, if I have lights wired to the 4200, I turn them on, then turn the power button off, when I turn it back on, will the lights activate without activating each individual switch again?
Sparky_911
Supporting Donor
Bobcoop
Part 1....yes...correct...and yes it can
Part 2...no...you will have to activate each time you power it 'on'.
Part 1....yes...correct...and yes it can
Part 2...no...you will have to activate each time you power it 'on'.
StewartComm
Member
I have some input and some food for thought for the dealers and staff at Feniex.
After reviewing the thread, I have some ideas...They may be good, or bad. You decide. Some of the ideas are from earlier posts from above.
1 - (Connector) Add a weatherproof hard connector on the back of the switch with a pigtail adapter.
2 - (Mounting Bracket) Reconfigure/Redesign the mounting bracket for the switch to either include 2 flat L brackets and/or a U bracket for a cleaner, more professional look.
3 - (Switches/Buttons) Increase the number of total switches to 9. Have at least two buttons capable of momentary for someone who wishes to use a remote siren and have access to both manual and air horn in addition to other tones. Create, if you already have not, a feature where you press and hold two buttons to enter into flash pattern mode. With that being said, include the option to "turn on" or "turn off" the pattern display that illuminates the top right and left buttons to show your current flash pattern. This may be an unwanted distraction for some users.
4 - (Brand Logo) Remove the current logo from front middle of the switch and replace it with "FENIEX" at the bottom center, underneath the buttons so that you still have your brand name on the front and keep the full logo on the back. You may even choose to "light" your brand name on the front when the controller is on.
5 - (Power Button) I'm not sure if this function is already in play within the switch, but...
Have the power button have two functions.
If you have a Mode 1, Mode 2, Mode 3 on the switch, simply tap the power button to reset all lighting functions without turning the switch off.
Tap to Reset
Press and Hold to Power Off
These are all my thoughts on ways to better improve the product without changing the product. Comments and Constructive Criticism/Input is always welcome on my end.
Derek
After reviewing the thread, I have some ideas...They may be good, or bad. You decide. Some of the ideas are from earlier posts from above.
1 - (Connector) Add a weatherproof hard connector on the back of the switch with a pigtail adapter.
2 - (Mounting Bracket) Reconfigure/Redesign the mounting bracket for the switch to either include 2 flat L brackets and/or a U bracket for a cleaner, more professional look.
3 - (Switches/Buttons) Increase the number of total switches to 9. Have at least two buttons capable of momentary for someone who wishes to use a remote siren and have access to both manual and air horn in addition to other tones. Create, if you already have not, a feature where you press and hold two buttons to enter into flash pattern mode. With that being said, include the option to "turn on" or "turn off" the pattern display that illuminates the top right and left buttons to show your current flash pattern. This may be an unwanted distraction for some users.
4 - (Brand Logo) Remove the current logo from front middle of the switch and replace it with "FENIEX" at the bottom center, underneath the buttons so that you still have your brand name on the front and keep the full logo on the back. You may even choose to "light" your brand name on the front when the controller is on.
5 - (Power Button) I'm not sure if this function is already in play within the switch, but...
Have the power button have two functions.
If you have a Mode 1, Mode 2, Mode 3 on the switch, simply tap the power button to reset all lighting functions without turning the switch off.
Tap to Reset
Press and Hold to Power Off
These are all my thoughts on ways to better improve the product without changing the product. Comments and Constructive Criticism/Input is always welcome on my end.
Derek
NJEMT
Member
To add to that maybe change the color of the light of the switch when it is activated
Dave-O
Member
+1 for a different color when activated. I would also like the on/off button to be programmable to act as a master warning, meaning touching the on/off button could activate or deactivate several buttons at once. Other than that, I love mine.
MotoFrog
New Member
A little help with wiring please...
I'm looking to hook this up on my bike with #1 running front strobes, #3 running back strobes, but I want #5 to run both front and back. I am a little lost on how to do this without backfeeding so any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I'm looking to hook this up on my bike with #1 running front strobes, #3 running back strobes, but I want #5 to run both front and back. I am a little lost on how to do this without backfeeding so any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Jarred J.
Lifetime VIP Donor
MotoFrog
New Member
Thanks for the fast feedback!
This is going on a BMW motorcycle. I'm installing Sound Off surface mount intersectors and Whelen ION surface mount strobes through a fuzeblock and then obviously controlled by the Feniex.
Can you be a little more specific on the diode type and arrangement as I have very little background in that? Here is what I've got so far on the wiring diagram... (work in progress)
Jarred J.
Lifetime VIP Donor
ok your saying one thing in your words but showing another via the diagram...
so im guessing your diagram is correct....
all you would need is a 12v diode to block the +12v from switch 1 or 3 from activating 5 or 3 if 1 is on or 1 and 5 if 3 is on.
you put the diode inline with the switches power before the lights them selves.. i cant draw the fancy diagram you have so ill use dashes...
switch 1 power activation wire -------------------------- diode------ power activation from switch 5---------------------------- lighthead
repeat for 3
your diode would be rated for whatever max power the mini 4200 sends out per switch which 3.5 amps...
so im guessing your diagram is correct....
all you would need is a 12v diode to block the +12v from switch 1 or 3 from activating 5 or 3 if 1 is on or 1 and 5 if 3 is on.
you put the diode inline with the switches power before the lights them selves.. i cant draw the fancy diagram you have so ill use dashes...
switch 1 power activation wire -------------------------- diode------ power activation from switch 5---------------------------- lighthead
repeat for 3
your diode would be rated for whatever max power the mini 4200 sends out per switch which 3.5 amps...
MotoFrog
New Member
Jarred J.
Lifetime VIP Donor
Jarred J.
Lifetime VIP Donor
Of course I did. Nowhere do I see where they recommend the proper gauge wire for power and ground.
Doyle257
Member
This is a correct statement.
http://www.feniex.com/uploads/literature/91044Mini-4200-V2.1-102716.pdf
I emailed Feniex about it. They state that power can ground can be run with 18 gauge and then 22 gauge for each button. I guess I'll just use 14 all around for safety's sake.