911ep 360 Star Modification - Info Request

[unlisted]

Hey all,


Recently purchased a few 360 stars, and opened one up. Realized how easy it would be to swap out the LED's for other colors.


With that said, does anyone know the exact type of led's they used, and what I could replace it with? Hoping I can pop in some newer generation LED's to increase the brightness and therefore awesome-ness.


Thanks all!

 

[wilsonbr90]

That's down my alley if your interested.

 

[unlisted]

That's down my alley if your interested.

Care to share some knowledge?

 

[SireLite]

Looks like a luxeon star. Basically a 1 watt diode soldered to a star plate.

 

[unlisted]

Looks like a luxeon star. Basically a 1 watt diode soldered to a star plate.

I do believe that is correct.. now to figure out what I can replace it with, that would be far brighter! (newer generation!)

 

[wilsonbr90]

Shoot I'll bite. That's may be 1 or 3 watt. Only way to tell is to check the incoming voltage. You may be able to rewire it to accept a 3 watt star based that I use. Cree products also frequent the star board use. You could replace it with the xp series but I believe the 3watt luxeons are brighter.

 

[medic550]

unlisted would you have any info on these lights. Ones I bought had cig cords on them and cant find anything on how to change patterns. I found one that references multiconductor wire but mine dont have that.

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

unlisted would you have any info on these lights. Ones I bought had cig cords on them and cant find anything on how to change patterns. I found one that references multiconductor wire but mine dont have that.

See attached PDF

911EP 360 Star.pdf

 

[medic550]

Thats the same manual I found. Problem is i dont have any of the multicolor wires. Just a row of solder pads on top board. Seen a jumper soldered between two points also the cig cord is soldered to them also.

 

[unlisted]

Start jumping wires. Lol

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

Thats the same manual I found. Problem is i dont have any of the multicolor wires. Just a row of solder pads on top board. Seen a jumper soldered between two points also the cig cord is soldered to them also.

You should start your own thread so as to not to completely hijack this thread, and post pictures , helps to see what you are talking about rather than try to visualize in other people's heads.

 

[Cop]

The 911Ep works with constant current so it is possible to change the LED. I guess you have a red or amber version... here is the problem: red and amber LED of the new generation need up to 500 mA. Blue and white up to 750/1000 mA. If you replace a red or amber LED with a blue or white one, it won't be that bright. But if you change a red to an amber it will work.


Sorry for my bad english...


Cop

 

[Zapp Brannigan]

The 911Ep works with constant current so it is possible to change the LED. I guess you have a red or amber version... here is the problem: red and amber LED of the new generation need up to 500 mA. Blue and white up to 750/1000 mA. If you replace a red or amber LED with a blue or white one, it won't be that bright. But if you change a red to an amber it will work.
Sorry for my bad english...


Cop

#1 - Thank you for your first post!


#2 - Your English is much better than most Americans posting in here! :haha:


#3 - What are the side-effects should a different diode needing to be driven at a higher amperage gets replaced? Only not as bright as it should be? Damage to the diode from being under-driven?

 

[Cop]

Thank you! You can see the "new blue LED" as dimmed. There is no problem or negative side-effect because constant current has adaptional voltage. eg: A constant current source supplies our blue LED with 500mA the adaptional voltage will be from 3.0 to 3.1 V. The same constant current source supplies our red LED with 500mA the adaptional voltage will be from 2.6 to 2.8 V. Driving the blue LED with a "red LED-driver" isn't a problem, it's like dimming it with a resistor. But if you try to light up a red LED with a 1500mA driver:nono: there will be smoke and a little flash and your red LED is crashed. But as I said there is no problem to do it the other way round. :yes:


Cop

 

[Cop]

I forgot to say: it would be great if you meter the current at the LED or take a picture of the electronics inside the housing so I may can give you detail information about what types of LED you can use.

 

[Cop]

I looked a the picture again... I'm sure it's a Luxeon I Star. You can replace the LED with every LED of the I Star series because they all use 350mA.(so the blue one of the I Star has same brightness) I recommend the cree XP-E. I use 8 of them in amber in my selfmade lightbar. I take a picture for better comparsion of the XP-E at 350 mA. Over the LED is an elliptical lens.

 

[unlisted]

Cam you do a side by side comparison at the same angle with both leds on?

 

[Cop]

Here is the Comparsion on the right side the Luxeon on the left the XP-E (now without any lenses) both amber and at 350mA.

 

[unlisted]

Hmmm now I need to find a mag mount 360star and a good price on xp-e leds.!!

 

[Cop]

Good luck! :thumbsup:

 

[oclgroup]

That's down my alley if your interested.

The one's I need to replace are traditional packages like what would normally be found on the three LED arrays on the Millennium in that they are probably wired in series ( I haven't checked that though) and are attached by means of two solder pads on opposite sides of the package. They need to be white instead of red. I imagine I might use higher brightness LED's but will the existing electronics support the greater load current for a three watt LED versus a one watt product? They have a four wire cable so I assume there may be two of the four used for flash pattern massaging. No other documentation is available as far as I can determine. During my initial involvement with this manufacturer, white LEDs were not yet available so I have nothing with white I can use for reference. The board on which they are attached is likely a newer generation versus the originals I encountered in the lightbar with copper ends. Their model designation is LSTAR-R, meaning I assume, red LEDs.

 

[wilsonbr90]

The one's I need to replace are traditional packages like what would normally be found on the three LED arrays on the Millennium in that they are probably wired in series ( I haven't checked that though) and are attached by means of two solder pads on opposite sides of the package. They need to be white instead of red. I imagine I might use higher brightness LED's but will the existing electronics support the greater load current for a three watt LED versus a one watt product? They have a four wire cable so I assume there may be two of the four used for flash pattern massaging. No other documentation is available as far as I can determine. During my initial involvement with this manufacturer, white LEDs were not yet available so I have nothing with white I can use for reference. The board on which they are attached is likely a newer generation versus the originals I encountered in the lightbar with copper ends. Their model designation is LSTAR-R, meaning I assume, red LEDs.

I believe that was quoted on me so if you want to talk more PM me


Wilson

 

[1863650]

There's a new series of star base Luxeons out that are slightly better than the original Luxeon Star-- the Sinkpad II 20mm base.

To compare, the OEM Luxeon Star 20mm star base Red 627nm with the Lambertian lens had a 44lm LED @ 350mA. It was part number LXHL-MD1D, it's completely off-the-shelf, 911ep did nothing special to make it their own, they didn't even wipe the generic part number.

The Sinkpad II Red 627nm produces 53lm @ 350mA. That's not a huge improvement, but at least it's not a downgrade.

What's more, the Sinkpad II is also relatively inexpensive compared to previous Luxeon star-base types in any given color.

I performed the above upgrade to refurb a 360 Star that had a few fading modules, it appears good as new.