I use Fed Sig Sentrys for the roof of the White Beast, f250 Super Duty CC, Red on driver side, Blue on pass side. They are wicked bright. 95 flash per min speed. Work great.
Best throw light?
- Thread starter vonirkinshtine
- Start date
Wheher they came off at speed depended on the production year and type of light. And if the roof was dirty or wet, etc.
The original Federal Fireball and SVP( and Smith and Wesson, KD) used four one inch bar magnets to secure the magnetic lights to a roof. And if you kept your car roof cleaned and polished, it might stay on. But above 80 MPH, forget it, particularly on the Ford Crown Vic, the Chevy Caprices, and Plymouths of the 1960s and 70s where the air impacted the roof line. And some idiots even tried to use them on vinyl Landau roofs.
The later generation Fireballs had a one x three inch bar magnet and finally two or three inch round magnets to affix the light to the roof. But the later generation lights have had stronger magnets. And cars were more aerodynamic, so the "Kojak" light could be used and would stay on. I never had any trouble with the Federal Firebeam, or the SVP pancake light, since these used a stronger round magnet.
The original Federal Fireball and SVP( and Smith and Wesson, KD) used four one inch bar magnets to secure the magnetic lights to a roof. And if you kept your car roof cleaned and polished, it might stay on. But above 80 MPH, forget it, particularly on the Ford Crown Vic, the Chevy Caprices, and Plymouths of the 1960s and 70s where the air impacted the roof line. And some idiots even tried to use them on vinyl Landau roofs.
The later generation Fireballs had a one x three inch bar magnet and finally two or three inch round magnets to affix the light to the roof. But the later generation lights have had stronger magnets. And cars were more aerodynamic, so the "Kojak" light could be used and would stay on. I never had any trouble with the Federal Firebeam, or the SVP pancake light, since these used a stronger round magnet.
Are there more than one version of the Cadet? I've seen many different claims for wattage. The Whelen website says 20 watts:
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/detai ... rod_id=165
SPECIFICATIONS
Input Voltage ..................12.8 VDC
Current Draw ..................2 amps @12.8 VDC
Lamp (standard) ............20 watt bi-pin halogen
Beam Candlepower .......42,000 (clear)
Operating Temperature ..-30°F (-34°C) to +120°F (49°C)
Weight ............................1lb., 2 oz. (.5kg)
And the installation instructions say:
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/install/132/13246.pdf
HALOGEN BULB WARNING:
P / N H20W12 (12V / 20 WATT)
DO NOT INSTALL BULBS EXCEEDING 20 WATTS
But the Sirennet website says 27 watts, you say 27 watts, I've seen many websites claiming 55,000 CP for it, and Galls sells replacement bulbs for it and says they are 35 watts. What gives?
Not that I'm in the market for one, anyway.
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/detai ... rod_id=165
SPECIFICATIONS
Input Voltage ..................12.8 VDC
Current Draw ..................2 amps @12.8 VDC
Lamp (standard) ............20 watt bi-pin halogen
Beam Candlepower .......42,000 (clear)
Operating Temperature ..-30°F (-34°C) to +120°F (49°C)
Weight ............................1lb., 2 oz. (.5kg)
And the installation instructions say:
http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/install/132/13246.pdf
HALOGEN BULB WARNING:
P / N H20W12 (12V / 20 WATT)
DO NOT INSTALL BULBS EXCEEDING 20 WATTS
But the Sirennet website says 27 watts, you say 27 watts, I've seen many websites claiming 55,000 CP for it, and Galls sells replacement bulbs for it and says they are 35 watts. What gives?
Not that I'm in the market for one, anyway.
This is a install I just did. I used everything Tomar and a Code 3 LED throw light. I think its very bright. Let me know what you think . Im still adding a 10-75 LP bracket with Tomar Rect14's for intersectin warning.
I think all of the Cadet bulb wattages were correct at one time or another, but current lights are 20 watt. I think they lowered the wattage from 35 to 27, and finally 20, because of heat problems.
Dan
Dan
NPS Ranger said:
How does the rotator and lens hold up to the 100 watt bulb? I would feel very well covered with a model 100 on the roof. A nice choice for a light on the high profile side of the spectrum.
I'd never seen the Code 3 LSS222 beacon used, but i'd figured it wouldn't be very bright off-axis - but having seen that video, I quite like it.
JohnMarcson said:
So far, no problems. Then again I haven't had it running in the Arizona sun for hours on end. Also a blue dome would run hotter than a red or amber so blue may be a problem. I did email FedSig to ask, and they did say not to use 100 watt bulbs.
Code 3 offers 100-watt bulbs in most of their lightbars, but they do advise against using more than one per section on full-size lightbars. Personally I think you're just fine using a 55-watt bulb.
Well i was going to do a video with 100w vs- 55w in a dashlaser, but .. walmart didnt have any in stock.. they were all on order.. Who needs 100w h1 bulbs from walmart.. ?? lol 
100 watt makes a difference, especially when using a fast flash motor, like the 100F 175 RPM, due to the shorter dwell time. I have used 100 watt in a model 100F 175 RPM early version, with the aluminum reflector. No problems. The dome was fine. Not sure about the newer plastic reflectors.
Dan
Dan
I just ordered another one today for a Volly who saw it in action. Its very good off axis since it has 16 LED's and it doesnt make that annoying rotator noise. I was thinking to try the L32 mag mount but they are like $300 in red.nerdly_dood said:
I like the hotshot 11 as a throw light, as it is small enough to store and still packs a good punch in the sunlight.
Jared @ 911Lights said:
As stated.... this is a throw light... for the roof....to give 360 degree coverage. So obviously a firebeam with 5 flash mirror would not work.
JohnMarcson said:As stated.... this is a throw light... for the roof....to give 360 degree coverage. So obviously a firebeam with 5 flash mirror would not work.
Talk about drag! :lol:
The DashLaser is probably too small to accomodate the greater heat from a 100 watt bulb. Large lights OK, smaller you'll melt the dome, and possibly ignite the plastic. I once bought a Premier Hazzard light, 160 FPM, similar to the DashLaser. They installed a 100 watt bulb, but they drilled a 1/4' hole in the bottom rear of the dome, to allow for heat to escape. I plowed with this light, and didn't have a problem. The FireBeam dome and base is plastic. I wouldn't go more than 55watt on that one for sure.
Dan
Dan
My main problem with the Firebeam is that it's square - I figure square single beacons should only be used as a dash light. There are several properly round or teardrop-shaped options available that are similarly effective.
RJ* said:
On a roof, the wind will never notice a firebeam , its so small, and if you got that light on at speeds that drag would be affected, maybe you should slow down. Ive left my firebeam on on highways at 110-120 km/h, no issues.
I just think a square light is counterintuitive for a single rotating beacon, plus I just think it's a bit ugly. But that's just my opinion on appearance, it doesn't affect the visibility of the light, so if you want a Firebeam, go for it. (But allow me to recommend the dual-speed version, if I may)
I still recommend the new Code 3 LED beacon light- bright as snot, has patterns that closely mimic halogen rotators, and low, low amperage draw compared to halogen. (oh and cheap, considering...)
I was debating for a while about clear or color dome. I got a color dome in red . I think its nicer.
Not too shabby, but I prefer beacons to have a more or less equal width-to-height ratio. Still effective though.LED said: