Does anyone do these to kill tail lights, drl's reverse lights, interior lights etc? Specifically on 2008+ Chevrolet Silverado 2500's? Just curious to see what others have done. I know there's huge liability involved and most don't like to do it. And if I remember right D 'n R carries a module to help with this. I don't need this module, plus the customer probably wouldn't pay for it so I'd just use a switch and a couple of relays. Thoughts?
Blackout Switch
- Thread starter AMG
- Start date
If you do it, just make sure the Third brake light still functions- IIRC that is the min requirement for "blackout" regs in Canada... Although this info I am recalling is from Toronto Police in the mid 90's- could be different now.
A buddy of mine used to do our Crown Vics. He tapped into the Brake fuse somehow (an adapter of some sort, maybe) and ran wires to a lighted rocker switch. When the brake lights were off, the switch lit to let you know. An added benefit was when the car was in park and the switch was on, the car wouldn't shift. We could leave our cars running and with the switch on, the car couldn't be (easily) stolen. I carried a spare key, and I could lock the doors with the car on and not worry too much about theft or tampering. It worked great, and he only charged something like $20 to do it.
It's a shame that the lawyers have made it so difficult to have that done - it's a really useful feature for sneaking around. That and a switching system that let's you shut off one headlight or tail-light for undercover cars.
Driving blacked out with NVGs is essentially pointless if you are behind another unit, as every time they tap the brakes your vision blooms out.
On older cars I just disabled the interior light door switches by removing them alltogether, squirting adhesive and gluing them off or screwing little metal plates down on them to hold them off.
Driving blacked out with NVGs is essentially pointless if you are behind another unit, as every time they tap the brakes your vision blooms out.
On older cars I just disabled the interior light door switches by removing them alltogether, squirting adhesive and gluing them off or screwing little metal plates down on them to hold them off.
Stendec said:
Wouldn't it be simpler to cut the door circuit at the dome light if it has a two-way switch?
I have an 07 2500 (the old body style) The interior lights should have a factory override (free) The DRL's have there own fuses which can be pulled, its under the hood. The brake switch I believe is grounded when on so a switch that taps into the wire at the pedal should work. As noted previously the vehicle won't go out of park with this bypassed.
Stendec said:
My older 92 explorer had that setup that I did myself. It was great for doing fire investigations and for playing CB tags with the guys on the department.
EVModules said:
I only know how to make things not work the way they are designed. Considering that I don't have any idea of how to do what you are talking about, it would actually be simplest if I used the suppressed .22 pistol I use for popping security lights on drug raids to shoot the dome light out, but then I'd have to duct-tape the hole in the roof.
Stendec said:I only know how to make things not work the way they are designed. Considering that I don't have any idea of how to do what you are talking about, it would actually be simplest if I used the suppressed .22 pistol I use for popping security lights on drug raids to shoot the dome light out, but then I'd have to duct-tape the hole in the roof.
Well, that's a bit harsh and can create a potential problem with that hole in the roof unless you plan to install some type of warning on top of the roof anyway.
Here's a topper. Use duct tape to cover up the dome light! It does double duty to cover the hole if this suggestion hasn't gotten to you sooner. :lol: