Reinstalling a Code 3 2100 from a vehicle being retired. I have the PDF off Code 3's site. Does not seem to have any type of wiring diagram included. I also see instructions for changing patterns by shorting a jumper. Not finding that anywhere. Appreciate any help.
Code 3 2100 wiring/flash
- Thread starter mifirecop
- Start date
It is best to get the serial number from the bar (usually starts with an "LL") and they can email you a wiring diagram for that particular bar. Most of the older 2100s I have been involved with were what we at Code 3 call non CC. Meaning they dont have a central controller like the newest ones do. This means that in the wiring harness you will have one wire for each individual head and each pair of corners. I have simply touched each wire to positive (other than the black grounds) and figured out which wire powered which heads. If you need anything further, email me at JLThatcher@code3pse.com. I will get that email much faster than here as I am not always the greatest at checking my pms. 
John T
John T
The Code 3 2100 bars do not synch any of the LED heads. Each LED module has l=a small circuit board on its backside. Off this come 6 wires. They are power (12v DC), ground, 2 small white wires for DIM, and then 2 wires that go to the actual LED head. You'll only really mess with the power, ground, and the DIM if you have it or want to DIM it. Ground should just go right to the lightbar ground, so that's easy. The power wire is usually tied into the power wire from the opposite side's respective LED head, and this wire goes to the controller, which then goes to either Level 1, 2, or 3. When the controller gives 12v to the respective level, 12v goes to the LED module, and it flashes in its set pattern.
On the back of each LED module you'll see the mini circuit board. In about the middle of this board there will be two pins that stick out. They are relatively large, and they stick out a good 1/4", and are about 3/16" apart from each other. They are pretty distinct, nothing else on the board looks like them. Using a flathead screwdriver, just touch the pins together, and it changes to the next flash pattern. In the install guide it will show you what patterns are in which order, but there are something like 9 different patterns, plus a steady burn, and a pattern that cycles through every pattern. Holding a screwdriver to the jumper for 5 seconds reverts to steady burn.
Be advised, the bad thing about the 2100s modules (I have the same modules on my Excalibur), is that every module cycles at a different speed. For example, if you set a red module and its corresponding blue module to flash 3 times fast then pause before flashing again (One of the preset patterns that I'm using), on mine they start together, but the blue flashes slightly faster, so after a minute or two they don't look synched at all. I'm guessing this is because the blue draws slightly less power than the red.
On the back of each LED module you'll see the mini circuit board. In about the middle of this board there will be two pins that stick out. They are relatively large, and they stick out a good 1/4", and are about 3/16" apart from each other. They are pretty distinct, nothing else on the board looks like them. Using a flathead screwdriver, just touch the pins together, and it changes to the next flash pattern. In the install guide it will show you what patterns are in which order, but there are something like 9 different patterns, plus a steady burn, and a pattern that cycles through every pattern. Holding a screwdriver to the jumper for 5 seconds reverts to steady burn.
Be advised, the bad thing about the 2100s modules (I have the same modules on my Excalibur), is that every module cycles at a different speed. For example, if you set a red module and its corresponding blue module to flash 3 times fast then pause before flashing again (One of the preset patterns that I'm using), on mine they start together, but the blue flashes slightly faster, so after a minute or two they don't look synched at all. I'm guessing this is because the blue draws slightly less power than the red.
C3John, I emailed you the serial number. Thanks for looking into it.
John Smith, I appreciate your response and knowledge. I'm not sure if its the modle I have or what, but on the circut boards on the back of the led unit, there are no jumpers sticking out. Everything is well sealed. I see several board identification marks. Non of them are J-1 or J-2 as indicated by the book. Im hoping C3John is ableto come up with something with the serial number I sent him. I will try to take a pic and post it..
Thanks for your response!
John Smith, I appreciate your response and knowledge. I'm not sure if its the modle I have or what, but on the circut boards on the back of the led unit, there are no jumpers sticking out. Everything is well sealed. I see several board identification marks. Non of them are J-1 or J-2 as indicated by the book. Im hoping C3John is ableto come up with something with the serial number I sent him. I will try to take a pic and post it..
Thanks for your response!
Here's a picture of the insides of my Excalibur lightbar. Our 2100 lightbars use the same LED modules, thus the modules themselves look identical, they are just not double stacked like my Excalibur. I put a square around the jumpers on each module. I guess they don't stick out as much as I thought they did, but I think it might just be the poor quality pic, as in real life it seemed pretty obvious to me.
[Broken External Image]:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/AaronZ34/DSCF2314.jpg
[Broken External Image]:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/AaronZ34/DSCF2314.jpg