Excalibur and V-Con Model 3692L4 Help

[Hoff]

I have a question about the wiring to the V-Con from the Excalibur. The bar has four halogens that are connected to two flashers (two lights to a flasher) and they do not turn on. With some investigation, and after replacing the bulbs, it looks like the wires to the flashers/halogens aren't hooked up to the back of the V-Con. Is getting the halogens/flashers to work as simple as finding the same color wire and attaching it to the appropriate spot on the back of the V-Con... say slide position 2?


I'm new to the boards and I realize that it sounds pretty simple. I just wanted someone who knows what they are talking about to confirm my suspisions and give a little guidance on how to fix this problem.


Also while on the topic of the Excalibur, has anyone heard of someone replacing the halogen bulbs in a rotator with LED bulbs? Is it even possible? I don't know if the light output would be any better with a LED bulb than the halogens are already doing. Just trying to think outside the box on how to make the bar better.


NOTE: I can't remove the bar or simply drop some Optix on the lower deck.

 

[fire1]

I have a question about the wiring to the V-Con from the Excalibur. The bar has four halogens that are connected to two flashers (two lights to a flasher) and they do not turn on. With some investigation, and after replacing the bulbs, it looks like the wires to the flashers/halogens aren't hooked up to the back of the V-Con. Is getting the halogens/flashers to work as simple as finding the same color wire and attaching it to the appropriate spot on the back of the V-Con... say slide position 2?
I'm new to the boards and I realize that it sounds pretty simple. I just wanted someone who knows what they are talking about to confirm my suspisions and give a little guidance on how to fix this problem.


Also while on the topic of the Excalibur, has anyone heard of someone replacing the halogen bulbs in a rotator with LED bulbs? Is it even possible? I don't know if the light output would be any better with a LED bulb than the halogens are already doing. Just trying to think outside the box on how to make the bar better.


NOTE: I can't remove the bar or simply drop some Optix on the lower deck.

If the hot wire is not hooked to anything then yes it should be that simple to hookup. Also check your ground to see it is hooked up.

 

[fire1]

I have a question about the wiring to the V-Con from the Excalibur. The bar has four halogens that are connected to two flashers (two lights to a flasher) and they do not turn on. With some investigation, and after replacing the bulbs, it looks like the wires to the flashers/halogens aren't hooked up to the back of the V-Con. Is getting the halogens/flashers to work as simple as finding the same color wire and attaching it to the appropriate spot on the back of the V-Con... say slide position 2?
I'm new to the boards and I realize that it sounds pretty simple. I just wanted someone who knows what they are talking about to confirm my suspisions and give a little guidance on how to fix this problem.


Also while on the topic of the Excalibur, has anyone heard of someone replacing the halogen bulbs in a rotator with LED bulbs? Is it even possible? I don't know if the light output would be any better with a LED bulb than the halogens are already doing. Just trying to think outside the box on how to make the bar better.


NOTE: I can't remove the bar or simply drop some Optix on the lower deck.

The led if you can fined one to fit I think would throw less light. You probably have the standard H1 50/55 watt bulb. They make a H1 100 watt. check & see what you have.

 

[Hoff]

The led if you can fined one to fit I think would throw less light. You probably have the standard H1 50/55 watt bulb. They make a H1 100 watt. check & see what you have.

The one that I'm working on now was the older bayonet style 50W bulbs, but the other Excalibur has the newer H1 Bulbs and Newer rotator reflectors. Would that 100W bulb be "plug-and-play"? In other words no other tweeks or mods, just drop the bulb in and go?

 

[fire1]

The one that I'm working on now was the older bayonet style 50W bulbs, but the other Excalibur has the newer H1 Bulbs and Newer rotator reflectors. Would that 100W bulb be "plug-and-play"? In other words no other tweeks or mods, just drop the bulb in and go?

Should be just plug in. H1 100 WATT HO HALOGEN LIGHT BULB CODE 3 FEDERAL SIGNAL | eBay

 

[Hoff]

Awesome thanks for the help! :thumbsup:

 

[Hoff]

Should be just plug in. H1 100 WATT HO HALOGEN LIGHT BULB CODE 3 FEDERAL SIGNAL | eBay

Will the wiring be able to handle an increase in wattage of the top of your head?

 

[fire1]

Will the wiring be able to handle an increase in wattage of the top of your head?

Should not be a problem

 

[Hoff]

Ok so everything is hooked up and still no light. Dunno if there is a short somewhere or what. Everything appears normal and hooked up. Need to test the voltage still.

 

[fire1]

Ok so everything is hooked up and still no light. Dunno if there is a short somewhere or what. Everything appears normal and hooked up. Need to test the voltage still.

Yes check for power. A few thing you can do also.


1) Hook your main ground wire to the batt. Jump the hot of each light to the pos wire or to batt. Just to see if they are working. If they do not work. Check your bulb & ground (you may want to jump to BATT ground to retest) the ground wire is normally just screwed into the frame. Once you know the light works. Go to step 2


2) The flasher sounds like you have a tridon or someone may have replaced it with a FA3, either one will work, the flash rate is 90 FPM. The terminal marked X is your hot, L1, L2 are outputs to the lights & the ground on the lights completes the circuit. This is for a 3 terminals flasher or there is a 3 terminal FA3 with a external ground wire, make sure it is connected. Hopefully someone did not go out and buy a turn signal flasher. Here is the install guide for a FA3, your flashers should look like it. http://www.fedsig.com/docs/256A715.pdf


Please do not take offense by the why I may have worded this, just had to start with the basics. If you still can not get them to work, I would say you have 2 bad flasher units.

 

[Hoff]

I take no offense to the basics. It's a good thing. With my limited experience it's never a bad idea to get the "simple" things out in the open before moving on to the more complex. I'll definatly give it a try. Would it be easier to take each light off the bar and test on the batt?

 

[fire1]

I take no offense to the basics. It's a good thing. With my limited experience it's never a bad idea to get the "simple" things out in the open before moving on to the more complex. I'll definatly give it a try. Would it be easier to take each light off the bar and test on the batt?

If you leave them in the bar you can check the power and ground out to see if maybe you have a broken cable or a bad ground to the light. You can use a fully charged jumper box just to test them with. I have a 750 amp That I use.