Federal Signal Pulsator P660 S

Hello everybody,
I found on ebay a Federal Signal P660, Pulsator, one of the most famous sirens ever. The tag on the siren shows the model „P660 S“. What is the „S“ meaning in this model number?

Thank you very much and best regards from Germany.
 

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The P660 is based on the ubiquitous model 28 ( painted with grill only; a non-coasting siren unlike the C6 or Qs). I seem to recall in another forum some time ago about a 28S. Speculation had it the S may have indicated a shorter or smaller diameter motor. But that would make no difference in P660 with a chrome motor shroud…perhaps it means slow wide up…. Just guessing here.
 
The P660 is based on the ubiquitous model 28 ( painted with grill only; a non-coasting siren unlike the C6 or Qs). I seem to recall in another forum some time ago about a 28S. Speculation had it the S may have indicated a shorter or smaller diameter motor. But that would make no difference in P660 with a chrome motor shroud…perhaps it means slow wide up…. Just guessing here.
Hello Maxim2Eng,
thank you for the information.
The offer is no longer on ebay.
Yes, "S" for "short"... or "small"... we dont know...
 

NPS Ranger

Member
May 21, 2010
1,989
Penn's Woods
What is the mounting for this siren? "S" might have meant stanchion mount the way "P" meant pipe mount. For example, mounting above the windshield header of an open cab fire apparatus.
 
Here are other pictures. The mounting of this siren looks like the other normal mounting bases of Pulsator-Sirens.
 

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jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
The P660 is based on the ubiquitous model 28 ( painted with grill only; a non-coasting siren unlike the C6 or Qs). I seem to recall in another forum some time ago about a 28S. Speculation had it the S may have indicated a shorter or smaller diameter motor. But that would make no difference in P660 with a chrome motor shroud…perhaps it means slow wide up…. Just guessing here.
Hi can you tell me where the positive wire goes..the one I bought doesn't show it
 

jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
can you post a picture?
Hi yes..I'm thinking it's the side bolt coming from the motor. I purchased this with a gash, welded out on its side rear housing. I'm guessing thats the positve bolt exposed. Sadly, whoever burned this piece out, could've just took the 3 machine screws off. I'm redoing the bodywork so to speak, on the dents and body housing. I sanded all the chrome off. It was a mess. Chrome was very rough. I got it down to bare brass.
 

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jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
Hi yes..I'm thinking it's the side bolt coming from the motor. I purchased this with a gash, welded out on its side rear housing. I'm guessing thats the positve bolt exposed. Sadly, whoever burned this piece out, could've just took the 3 machine screws off. I'm redoing the bodywork so to speak, on the dents and body housing. I sanded all the chrome off. It was a mess. Chrome was very rough. I got it down to bare brass.
P.s. It's still work in progress..after work is done, I'm not sure to rechrome or just prime it and spray chrome. I heard it's expensive to rechrome...maybe a tireshop who does rechroming rims. Any ideas? Is it possible to clear coat it after repainting without any chemical reaction? Thank you in advance. Jamie T.
 

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Last edited by a moderator:
The bolt you see is the power (12VDC +). Use a battery cable and ground it (-) with the mounting foot (where it would have been bolted to roof/fender/bumper). The power cable should be routed through the mounting foot.

The rear motor housing is the same size as the FedSig Q2 series (it was standard for all FS chrome sirens). Not cheap but available. Rechroming is expensive and not all shops handles small jobs like that.

if you are going to display it, you will need a 12V battery, solenoid, momentary push button, and appropriate wiring and cable. Also , mount it to a piece of plywood or the windup torque will cause it to flop around like a fish out of water.

oh…don’t forget ear protection. Your neighbors are gonna love you. :cool:
 

jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
The bolt you see is the power (12VDC +). Use a battery cable and ground it (-) with the mounting foot (where it would have been bolted to roof/fender/bumper). The power cable should be routed through the mounting foot.

The rear motor housing is the same size as the FedSig Q2 series (it was standard for all FS chrome sirens). Not cheap but available. Rechroming is expensive and not all shops handles small jobs like that.

if you are going to display it, you will need a 12V battery, solenoid, momentary push button, and appropriate wiring and cable. Also , mount it to a piece of plywood or the windup torque will cause it to flop around like a fish out of water.

oh…don’t forget ear protection. Your neighbors are gonna love you. :cool:
Thank you...That's what I was figuring.Any ideas on refinishing it? Other than chrome?

Would also like to know if the pulsator is still functional.
Negative..it was missing

I really do appreciate your responding so quickly..very knowledgable as well.
 
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jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
I'd just like to note..although by redoing the body work I know the value went down significantly but this is just for my sights..I have a mint condition 175 light with a high skirt..that needs this partner..thanks again Sir!
 
I like your idea of a very economical finish in a good chrome rattle can spray paint. I never saw the guts of a pulsator but I understand the basic concept was a flap that opened/closed to restrict air intake to the siren causing it to “pulsate” (you can do the same thing by putting a book over the intake and pulling it away). The drive was a wire from the rotator to the device. From what I heard, it was the first thing to fail.
 

jamiet

New Member
Oct 4, 2023
6
brooklyn, ny
I like your idea of a very economical finish in a good chrome rattle can spray paint. I never saw the guts of a pulsator but I understand the basic concept was a flap that opened/closed to restrict air intake to the siren causing it to “pulsate” (you can do the same thing by putting a book over the intake and pulling it away). The drive was a wire from the rotator to the device. From what I heard, it was the first thing to fail.
Okay thank you for your input... I'll show you the final results what i'm done..
 

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