marker227 said:
Yeah, The 10 gauge power lead was correctly wired to the "+bat" inside the unit. He switched the 12V Ignition Switched Power with with the GROUND wire to the unit. Melted pin 6 and that area smoked a little. I checked those wires and power still goes through them, but the entire unit is just "dead".
I already ordered another one from this website. I'l just swap keypads and use the same wires... Luckily I found the wiring manual, so it won't be so much of a challenge this time.
I appreciate you guys being so friendly. I didn't appreciate it from a few other members who wouldn't offer any advice except that I had no idea what I was doing and to get an installer to do it.
Well, look who blew up my unit... The installer!
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Look, the issues I have are:
1. You asked for information that is clearly outlined in the manual. That info is sufficient for installation for anyone with a basic knowledge of automotive electrical and warning systems. If the manual is confusing, then 90% of the time the person confused should not do the work.
2. You stated that the horn ring info was not sufficiently detailed when in fact the manual has two illustrations relating to it as well as a 1/2 page of detailed instructions. Then you later post that you found it after you "looked for a while." It took me 15 seconds to find it looking over the instructions. This, and #1 above, leads me to conclude that you didn't RTFM. Or plan your install on paper before jumping in. No problem, I get that, but fess up if that's the case.
3. You take issue with folks who arguably give you the best advice...find a competent installer. This is based on experience and ultimately a desire for you to have the best possible outcome. Which, BTW, hasn't happened. My first reply answered your questions in detail and would have been sufficient for someone with the necessary electrical knowledge but for whom the SS system was new to them. I made no assumption or recommendation that you "get an installer." I reached that conclusion pretty quickly, just didn't post it.
4. Note that I said "competent installer." Whoever did the work you describe and fried your SS, be they real or imaginary, is not competent. That is an idiotic mistake, and would not happen if the installer had been diligent, used fuses, checked their work, checked it again, and checked it once more. It is inexcusable and, while it can and does happen at times, is solely the installers fault. Given that the installer made the mistake, it should be on them to fix or replace your siren. That's assuming they are a legitimate operation, that the wiring you did was not the problem, and that they in fact exist. IMHO, they are not a professional installer, hence your problem. If they are just a buddy who *thinks* they know what they are doing, and they were doing it for free...you got what you paid for.
5. The information you did get in this thread from me and others, while provided at no cost, was not free. It cost us to acquire and has been paid for over the years. Likewise, it is worth exactly what you paid for it. In exchange, we ask that you be honest with yourself about your capabilities. Take it or leave it, but understand it is provided with the assumption that you actually are capable of using it.
6. Your last post's comment that "Luckily I found the wiring manual, so it won't be so much of a challenge this time" strongly reinforces my suspicion that you didn't RTFM before beginning your project. The little image you linked to that shows an overview of the system's power wiring is just that. It is part of the final installation checklist provided by FedSig that should be gone over BEFORE powering the unit...to prevent smoke.
7. Still beating the horse here, but the manual is online and downloadable. How hard could it have been to "find?"
8. The Smart Siren is probably the most discussed system on this board, with regards to technical support questions. A search should have answered most questions. In fact, it would have located a link to that elusive manual.
I have a buddy in Jersey who does installs (Blue Line in Beachwood). I've been there and I know install work is pricey in that neck of the woods, so I understand wanting to save some cash. But next time you could have an issue that costs real money or damages your vehicle. If I sound like an ass with this post, I guess that is unfortunate. But we've seen lots of similar threads here...that's why the advice to use a pro is so liberally handed out.
No one here gets paid to give free info on the web. The (few) pros on this board who still bother to do it get nothing more than personal satisfaction out of it; I like to contribute to exercise my mind. But it takes time and effort. And often it is unheeded or unappreciated. This board is a resource, but only if you use it as such, even if the guidance isn't what you want to hear.
Again, good luck with your install. And the replacement siren.
BTW, if the siren failed as you describe, I would probably replace the unit's wiring harness (the 12-pin connector and its factory-provided lengths of wire) as well. The high amp load that reversing the power and ground could have caused might have compromised the integrity of the connector's pin retention feature and the wire insulation. I'm assuming you used the factory-provided 20A glass fuse at the 12-pin's red wire power connection. If so, the fuse holder is likely damaged as well.
