Help with headlight flasher

[dawson75]

Hey all got a question for ya.


I have been told that you can NOT put a headlight flasher on the 2009 on up Ford explorer XLT's. I have not been able to find a vehicle specific flasher unit so I am starting to think that this is true. I have been told that putting a flasher unit on the Explorer messes with the computer and makes it think that a headlight is blown therefore lighting up the dummy light on the dash with an audible tone. I have not tried to do this in fear of messing with the vehicle computer, so If someone with more knowledge on the subject can jump in and give me some advice that would be greatly appritiated!


Dan

 

[cajunblitz]

Hey all got a question for ya.

I have been told that you can NOT put a headlight flasher on the 2009 on up Ford explorer XLT's. I have not been able to find a vehicle specific flasher unit so I am starting to think that this is true. I have been told that putting a flasher unit on the Explorer messes with the computer and makes it think that a headlight is blown therefore lighting up the dummy light on the dash with an audible tone. I have not tried to do this in fear of messing with the vehicle computer, so If someone with more knowledge on the subject can jump in and give me some advice that would be greatly appritiated!


Dan

Not sure if it was an XLT, but I've installed the Whelen UHF2150A in a 2010 Explorer with no issues.





http://www.elightbars.org/forums/showthread.php?3717-2010-Ford-Explorer-Unmarked-Detective-Unit

 

[aebm]

Hello Dwason75, Please let me use your question since I am in the same doubt but regarding installing a Whelen Uhf2150 Flasher on a Ford Explorer 2002.


Can this Flasher be installed and will work in Vehicles made before 2005?


Thanks for the help.

 

[cajunblitz]

Hello Dwason75, Please let me use your question since I am in the same doubt but regarding installing a Whelen Uhf2150 Flasher on a Ford Explorer 2002.

Can this Flasher be installed and will work in Vehicles made before 2005?


Thanks for the help.

Yes, it will work on your 2002 Explorer. Use the Positive switched diagram.

 

[aebm]

Great, Thanks for the help C!

 

[dawson75]

Well thanks C , think I'll just give it a try and see what happends.


Thanks


Dan

 

[drmatt]

Has anyone had luck getting the headlight flasher to work on a 2011 explorer (new body style). We've followed the positive wiring diagram and can only get it to work if the headlights are on. Any thoughts would appreciated.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Has anyone had luck getting the headlight flasher to work on a 2011 explorer (new body style). We've followed the positive wiring diagram and can only get it to work if the headlights are on. Any thoughts would appreciated.

Sounds like the headlights might be ground switched...? I'm not sure, thats a peculiar problem...

 

[drmatt]

Sounds like the headlights might be ground switched...? I'm not sure, thats a peculiar problem...

We tried the negative swith install as well. No luck. Called Whalen, they said they've heard about this but had no suggestions.

 

[drmatt]

We tried the negative switch wiring as well with no luck. Whhen we called Whalen they said they heard about this but had no solution other then to turn on the headlights.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Thats strange... Other then turning the headlights on or rigging something to the HLF switch to turn the headlights on, I'm at a loss...

 

[bobbyrum]

go to the Sound Off site and then to Technical and then to the flasher recommendation chart, there is a small write up about the explorer there, but it is a positive switch system. read the write up. Bobby

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Here ya go...


http://www.soundoffsignal.com/techsupport/vech_flashinfo/Flasher_VehWiring2011.xls

 

[drmatt]

Thanks. This suggests a T-tap to each side (I'm assuming as opposed to a direct splice and interuption in the line.). We're running with a whalen UHF 2150, I'll try the T-tap and see what happens.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Thanks. This suggests a T-tap to each side (I'm assuming as opposed to a direct splice and interuption in the line.). We're running with a whalen UHF 2150, I'll try the T-tap and see what happens.

As long as you hook up ALL the wires with the Whelen 2150 it should work...

 

[VolEms]

I have the same problem with a 2011 Honda CRV. The wig wags only work when the headlights are on. The costumer knows to turn on the headlights while responding.

 

[FFDan]

As long as you hook up ALL the wires with the Whelen 2150 it should work...

If I may resume this topic: Triton, can you elaborate on what you said? I'm attempting to hook up a UHF2150A in my 2008 Focus. I've confirmed from the dealership that the headlights are positively switched, and I have followed the UHF2150A installation instructions (link below), except for hooking up the brown and brown/white wires to the parking light circuit (didn't feel like tapping into another vehicle circuit if it wasn't completely necessary). When I flip the switch to turn on the 2150, I can hear the unit clicking, but the headlights do NOT actually flash. If I then turn on low beams, the unit continues clicking, and the low beams operate as normal (still no flashing). If I turn on high beams, the unit stops clicking and high beams operate as normal. When I shut off high beams, the unit resumes clicking.


In short, everything is operating exactly as I expected it to...except the lights don't actually flash. Was your comment that "ALL the wires" need to be hooked up implying that the loose brown and brown/white wires might be causing the unit to not work properly?


The fact that I can hear the relays clicking inside the 2150 has really thrown me for a loop. Any help is appreciated! I can provide the vehicle headlight wiring diagram too if that would help.


UHF2150A Instructions --> http://www.whelen.com/install/135/13510.pdf

 

[MeefZah]

If I may resume this topic: Triton, can you elaborate on what you said? I'm attempting to hook up a UHF2150A in my 2008 Focus. I've confirmed from the dealership that the headlights are positively switched, and I have followed the UHF2150A installation instructions (link below), except for hooking up the brown and brown/white wires to the parking light circuit (didn't feel like tapping into another vehicle circuit if it wasn't completely necessary). When I flip the switch to turn on the 2150, I can hear the unit clicking, but the headlights do NOT actually flash. If I then turn on low beams, the unit continues clicking, and the low beams operate as normal (still no flashing). If I turn on high beams, the unit stops clicking and high beams operate as normal. When I shut off high beams, the unit resumes clicking.

In short, everything is operating exactly as I expected it to...except the lights don't actually flash. Was your comment that "ALL the wires" need to be hooked up implying that the loose brown and brown/white wires might be causing the unit to not work properly?


The fact that I can hear the relays clicking inside the 2150 has really thrown me for a loop. Any help is appreciated! I can provide the vehicle headlight wiring diagram too if that would help.


UHF2150A Instructions --> http://www.whelen.com/install/135/13510.pdf

I'm subscribing to this thread as I'm getting ready to install a UHF2150A in a '07 Civic.


FFDan - I can't see how not connecting the parking light cuttout would matter. If you were operating the vehicle in the daytime, you wouldn't have the parking lights or headlights on anyway.


Any chance you reversed the white / blue and blue wires? Or the white / yellow and yellow?

 

[FFDan]

Any chance you reversed the white / blue and blue wires? Or the white / yellow and yellow?

I double (maybe even triple) checked everything last night when I started troubleshooting, so I'd say I'm 95% confident that the wiring was done correctly. However, I am planning to check that again tonight and will post my findings. Appreciate the input!

 

[TritonBoulder47]

If I may resume this topic: Triton, can you elaborate on what you said? I'm attempting to hook up a UHF2150A in my 2008 Focus. I've confirmed from the dealership that the headlights are positively switched, and I have followed the UHF2150A installation instructions (link below), except for hooking up the brown and brown/white wires to the parking light circuit (didn't feel like tapping into another vehicle circuit if it wasn't completely necessary). When I flip the switch to turn on the 2150, I can hear the unit clicking, but the headlights do NOT actually flash. If I then turn on low beams, the unit continues clicking, and the low beams operate as normal (still no flashing). If I turn on high beams, the unit stops clicking and high beams operate as normal. When I shut off high beams, the unit resumes clicking.

In short, everything is operating exactly as I expected it to...except the lights don't actually flash. Was your comment that "ALL the wires" need to be hooked up implying that the loose brown and brown/white wires might be causing the unit to not work properly?


The fact that I can hear the relays clicking inside the 2150 has really thrown me for a loop. Any help is appreciated! I can provide the vehicle headlight wiring diagram too if that would help.


UHF2150A Instructions --> http://www.whelen.com/install/135/13510.pdf

I don't recall a Brown/White wire on the 2150A... But you should connect the Brown wire just because you have a dual filement bulb and it could prematurely blow your headlight bulbs...


Black to ground, Red to the battery fused @ 15A, Splice the White/Black wire with the Orange activation wire, Blue wire to drivers side headlight, Whte wire spliced with the Blue/White wire goes back into the headlight wiring harness, Yellow wire to Passengers Headlight, Yellow/White wire goes back into the headlight wiring harness...


It should work unless you hooked it up as negative switched...

 

[MeefZah]

I don't recall a Brown/White wire on the 2150A... But you should connect the Brown wire just because you have a dual filement bulb and it could prematurely blow your headlight bulbs...
Black to ground, Red to the battery fused @ 15A, Splice the White/Black wire with the Orange activation wire, Blue wire to drivers side headlight, Whte wire spliced with the Blue/White wire goes back into the headlight wiring harness, Yellow wire to Passengers Headlight, Yellow/White wire goes back into the headlight wiring harness...


It should work unless you hooked it up as negative switched...

Total thread jack but since you seem familiar with the UHF2150 and you are a profesional installer:


Two questions -


I have a 2007 Honda Civic. I believe (through testing) that the headlights are positive switched. Can you confirm this? My testing method involved disconnecting the high beam bulb and running a short jumper from the negative terminal on the socket to the negative terminal on the bulb. I then ran a second longer jumper from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the bulb, and it illuminated. When I reversed this process (longer jumper from bulb to negative, shorter jumper between the factory wiring positive terminal and the bulb) the bulb did not light up.


And, if I don't hook up the parking light cuttout on the flasher, is there any issue with either the flasher not working, or reduced bulb life (I have a 4 lamp system)? I would rather have wig wags at night.


Thanks.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Total thread jack but since you seem familiar with the UHF2150 and you are a profesional installer:

Two questions -


I have a 2007 Honda Civic. I believe (through testing) that the headlights are positive switched. Can you confirm this? My testing method involved disconnecting the high beam bulb and running a short jumper from the negative terminal on the socket to the negative terminal on the bulb. I then ran a second longer jumper from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the bulb, and it illuminated. When I reversed this process (longer jumper from bulb to negative, shorter jumper between the factory wiring positive terminal and the bulb) the bulb did not light up.


And, if I don't hook up the parking light cuttout on the flasher, is there any issue with either the flasher not working, or reduced bulb life (I have a 4 lamp system)? I would rather have wig wags at night.


Thanks.

Honestly, I'm not certain with the Civic... I myself have a 2006 Civic that I want to put a HLF in... I do believe you are correct that the headlights are a positive switched system... And easier way to test this is to take a test light and hook it up to a ground and just probe the positive of the headlight harness... If it lights up without turning the headlights on, its a negative system... With the Civic you wouldn't need the "Night Time Cut-Out" option since there is a separate bulb for the high and low beams... The only thing that might cause a problem is the fact that the high beams are the DRLs for that car (well, they are for my '06 anyway). But I already solved that by removing the fuse for the DRLs...

 

[MeefZah]

But I already solved that by removing the fuse for the DRLs...

As did I.

 

[twodogs603]

Some time ago I installed a UHF2150A on a 2011 Ford Explorer XLT. When the flasher was activated, the Driver Information Center indicated a bulb out. Shutting off the car and restarting it would reset it. I called Whelen and they said it will do that. They didnt recommend it be used on the XLT Explorer or Pickups, but would work fine on the XL versions that dont have the Driver Information Center.

 

[FFDan]

Well, last night I went to start double checking my connections, and I turned on the unit...it was clicking again, but still no flashing. Then I started grabbing wires to follow them to their connections, and lo and behold, the passenger side headlight suddenly started flashing. Then I gave a quick tug on the wires for the driver side, and that light started flashing as well. So, apparently I just had an intermittent connection. Nevertheless, I appreciated the responses to my post!

I don't recall a Brown/White wire on the 2150A... But you should connect the Brown wire just because you have a dual filement bulb and it could prematurely blow your headlight bulbs...

I completely agree. My original thinking was that I would just be careful and never turn on the HLF when I have the low beams on, but I can already tell that will be a pain in the butt and I'll eventually forget. I actually mounted the 2150 inside the passenger compartment under the dash (couldn't find a good spot in the engine bay), so in order to hook up the brown wire, I'll need to fish another wire through the firewall...doable, just time consuming.

if I don't hook up the parking light cuttout on the flasher, is there any issue with either the flasher not working

The setup I have right now shows that the flasher will work just fine if you leave the parking light cutout disconnected. Also, as far as determining whether your system is positive or negative switched, I used the method that Triton suggested, and it gave me the correct answer. However, when my setup didn't work initially for the reasons described above, I went to a local dealership and explained what I was up to, and they printed off a wiring diagram for me that confirmed how my headlights were switched. Not sure if every service shop will be that generous, but it can't hurt to ask.


tl;dr


-Had faulty connection, system working now


-Parking light cutout not required for 2150 to work

 

[MeefZah]

My UHF2150A installation went without a hitch. I did not attach the parking light cutout wiring.


FYI Triton - the 2007 Civic is a positive switch HL system.


And... don't use Loctite on the bolt that holds the flasher to your firewall... it ate away the mounting tabs on one side of my flasher in about ten minutes...


I'm not crazy about the flash patterns available on the UHF, I ended up just going with the standard fast wig-wag.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

My UHF2150A installation went without a hitch. I did not attach the parking light cutout wiring.

FYI Triton - the 2007 Civic is a positive switch HL system.


And... don't use Loctite on the bolt that holds the flasher to your firewall... it ate away the mounting tabs on one side of my flasher in about ten minutes...


I'm not crazy about the flash patterns available on the UHF, I ended up just going with the standard fast wig-wag, video:


Mobile Uploads :: 1111111410.mp4 video by MeefZah - Photobucket

Looks good... I can't wait to get on on my '06...

 

[Atown2010]

I realize this is on old thread, wanted to see if anyone has had any luck installing a UHF2150a on a 2010 F150 xlt? I wired it in, but my high beams don't alternate...

 

[TritonBoulder47]

I realize this is on old thread, wanted to see if anyone has had any luck installing a UHF2150a on a 2010 F150 xlt? I wired it in, but my high beams don't alternate...

Did you install it properly...?

 

[Atown2010]

Did you install it properly...?

Yes I did. I talked to one of the mechanics who works for the fire department Monday morning, and he double checked the wiring to confirmed this.


He called a contact he was at Whelen whose only suggestion was that we try disconnecting the brown wires that are supposed to be spliced into the parking lights. His explanation was that the computer that controls the headlights on the F150 XLT model is different than the F150 XL.


Because I had already spliced the brown and brown/white cables into the running lights i just cut them, and the module works perfectly now.


Going into this, I was also somewhat concerned about the sensor that automatically turns on the headlights at night/when its dark, but it still works fine too.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Glad you got it figured out!

 

[iamshane123]

Bringing this thread back from the dead!


One of our vehicles, a 2009 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 (just as the OP described), was brought into our shop due to the wig wags acting screwy.


I started trying to troubleshoot by soldering the connections that tie into the high beam circuits as we have had to do this to almost all of our older Explorers. When originally installed by whoever years ago they were spliced in using butt connectors. Normally after soldering the connections everything is good.


Anyway, I resoldered everything and tried them again...still to no avail (Whelen UHF 2150A). After more thinking and testing I found out that the UHF2150A itself was bad. It was only sending 0.6 volts to the HB bulbs when activated.


I replaced the old module with a new one and the wig wags work perfect now.


HOWEVER!


My problem now is that the high beams don't work with just the headlights on (no flashers on). Before I installed the new unit I put a meter on the positive side of the factory HB harness and a ground and it was good (11.7 volts). After hooking up the new module and turning the wig wags on and discovering the HB don't work alone now I disconnected it and tested the factory harness again. And with the HB switch activated, the hot side is only yielding fractions of a volt.


What could the problem be? It's somewhere in the factory wiring or something. I checked the fuses and they are all good. There is full power running through the fuse so it has to be after that somewhere. I tried finding a HB relay but didn't see one and I think perhaps the switching occurs within the multifunction switch itself.


Any ideas?

 

[iamshane123]

Well after about calling it quits I shook the steering column up and down hard and flipped the HB switch on and off a bunch of times and voila. It worked! So going to pull the steering column apart on Tuesday. Going to enjoy the 3 day weekend right now and not think about this crap until then.