Installing Lighthead/Loom into GM Truck Extendable Towing Mirrors

Rhinojoe

Member
May 26, 2010
83
Exempt
Anyone run a upfitted loom thru the GM Truck towing mirrors without any binding/kinks when the mirror extends and retracts?


I'm figuring using black wire loom with a few spriral loops, enough to extend and retract.


Thoughts/Ideas?


Thanks


RJ
 

RecElect

Member
Jan 26, 2011
331
Loveland, Colorado
Rhinojoe said:
Anyone run a upfitted loom thru the GM Truck towing mirrors without any binding/kinks when the mirror extends and retracts?

I'm figuring using black wire loom with a few spriral loops, enough to extend and retract.


Thoughts/Ideas?


Thanks


RJ

we did it, kinda a pain and we had to really work to not have the wires bind up. If i remember right, we could not have loom running through the arm, we had to tape it as tight as possible. On that note thought, we were able to get 4 18 gauge wires through and to the light.
 

MESDA6

Member
Jun 2, 2010
920
Central IL and PHX
Just thinking about some other things I've used loom on, the ridges of the loom may bind up. You might need to use some small diameter vacuum line or fuel line over the loom so that you have a smooth surface that the mirror won't bind on. Heat shrink might work also.
 

Rhinojoe

Member
May 26, 2010
83
Exempt
WIRED HDH said:
we did it, kinda a pain and we had to really work to not have the wires bind up. If i remember right, we could not have loom running through the arm, we had to tape it as tight as possible. On that note thought, we were able to get 4 18 gauge wires through and to the light.

Thanks for the heads up.


What do you think about using this;


Fiberglass, Heat Resistant Wire Loom - Black


I'm also worried about the wire inside the mirrors during high summer temps.


RJ
 

Rhinojoe

Member
May 26, 2010
83
Exempt
MESDA6 said:
Just thinking about some other things I've used loom on, the ridges of the loom may bind up. You might need to use some small diameter vacuum line or fuel line over the loom so that you have a smooth surface that the mirror won't bind on. Heat shrink might work also.

Agreed,


Until I stuff it and work the extend and retract I won't know what will pop up or bind.


It's also has to pivot front and aft, from directly against the door to more than 90 degrees.


Thanks again everyone.


RJ
 

bigcat

Member
May 20, 2010
641
Hartford County, CT
Have you popped the mirror section off yet? Just mimic what the factory wiring is doing behind the mirror and it'll work fine. No loom either. I would use protected wiring like strobe cable (as a widely known example). Something in a casing that is smooth on the outside and flexible. You'll see how simplistic the oem wiring is when you get in there.
 

Rhinojoe

Member
May 26, 2010
83
Exempt
bigcat said:
Have you popped the mirror section off yet? Just mimic what the factory wiring is doing behind the mirror and it'll work fine. No loom either. I would use protected wiring like strobe cable (as a widely known example). Something in a casing that is smooth on the outside and flexible. You'll see how simplistic the oem wiring is when you get in there.

No I haven't. For my 1st new incursion, I always like to ask other Techs that have worked on that particular install, to see what problems and work-arounds they've encountered.


Sounds like the a whelen strobe extension loom might do the trick.


Thank you everyone for all the comments and help.


RJ
 

Lighten

Member
Jul 4, 2013
41
Georgia
Strobe cable works the best for mirror installs, thats what i use for them. The GM tow mirrors are prolly the most aggravating to put a light in also super duty mirrors are close behind.
 

Rhinojoe

Member
May 26, 2010
83
Exempt
Lighten said:
Strobe cable works the best for mirror installs, thats what i use for them. The GM tow mirrors are prolly the most aggravating to put a light in also super duty mirrors are close behind.

I figured that, just by looking at the GM exploded view and though I'd throw it out for help/suggestions.


Thanks


RJ
 

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