I'm good with warning equipment installation, and car audio, but I haven't done much with radios in the past. I just horse traded a couple lights for a Kenwood TK-760H from a guy in the department, it was just programmed, and everything is supposed to be good with it. It is going into my 2003 GMC Yukon. I had planned to buy something like a TK-7160, which is a little wider, and would fit perfectly into the DIN sized pocket below my factory radio. The 760 is narrower, and I can't find any adapters to fit it into a standard DIN size opening. Does such a thing exist? I figured I would ask here before I go fabricating something. I can take pics later today, if they are needed. Oh, and instead of the two Kenwood cables (accessory and ignition sense) to ignition switch the radio, I'm thinking of picking up a continuous duty solenoid to ign. switch it. Any issues there? I don't like to use relays for ignition switching, it will wear them out. Sorry for the lack of paragraphs, the enter key is not cooperating with the text box. Thanks. -Chris
Kenwood TK-760H Installation Question
- Thread starter ncfireman1918
- Start date
I've never seen a DIN sleeve for one of those radios, but you might check with a good car audio shop.
The 760H will not do 12.5KHz narrow band, so be aware of that. The 760HG will do that.
IIRC, the 760H is also just a numeric channel display, not alpha numeric.
I've never actually tried one of the Kenwood ignition sense cables, so I can't comment there.
The 760H will not do 12.5KHz narrow band, so be aware of that. The 760HG will do that.
IIRC, the 760H is also just a numeric channel display, not alpha numeric.
I've never actually tried one of the Kenwood ignition sense cables, so I can't comment there.
wilsonbr90
Member
The only problem I've found with running it on a solenoid is that it reverts to the last programmed channel with scan off. Not that radio specifically. But something to be aware of nonetheless
I'll check a couple of car audio shops just to see. I just measured, and I *think* that a set of 3.5" to 5.25" computer drive bay adapter rails may take up the extra space. I think it will still lack a couple 1/8's, but I can take up that little extra room with some washers. I've got a sheet of black ABS laying around somewhere, I can cut that to size and epoxy to the front of the rails and I'm in business. Our radio guy just reprogrammed the radio a couple weeks ago, and we narrowbanded last year, so whatever he programmed works. The FD uses mostly Kenwood, so he's pretty familiar/good with them.
It wasn't the radio I'd planned to get, I had planned on one with an alphanumeric display, normal DIN size, etc. I figure no money out of pocket, and a spare light off the shelf, it was worth it. If it turns out I hate it, I can always sell it, right?
It wasn't the radio I'd planned to get, I had planned on one with an alphanumeric display, normal DIN size, etc. I figure no money out of pocket, and a spare light off the shelf, it was worth it. If it turns out I hate it, I can always sell it, right?
ryanm said:
Are you saying it won't do narrowband period, or just the splinter channels? The non G Will do narrowband, just not the splinter channels. A lot of people don't know that. Just checking.
OP: why can't you use the standard ignition switch accessory cable? Just wondering.
Jordan, TCFD
Jordan,
my radio guy already programmed it with our narrowband channels, so I'm guessing it does the basics just fine. I'm not up to speed on all of the narrowband terminology, so I can't comment on the splinter channels. As for the standard ignition switch cable, I'm assuming you are referring to the Kenwood cable? It actually requires two cables, the accessory cable and the ignition cable, and I'm not dropping $40-$50 on a pair of cables just to ignition switch it. I think I found an ignition switched circuit in the underhood fuse box that is designed to add a circuit to the truck. I have to check it with a voltmeter, but that may work.
I picked up up a set of computer drive rails that are going to work perfectly for mounting, and ordered a small sheet of ABS to fabricate a faceplate. Should look good, I all goes well.
my radio guy already programmed it with our narrowband channels, so I'm guessing it does the basics just fine. I'm not up to speed on all of the narrowband terminology, so I can't comment on the splinter channels. As for the standard ignition switch cable, I'm assuming you are referring to the Kenwood cable? It actually requires two cables, the accessory cable and the ignition cable, and I'm not dropping $40-$50 on a pair of cables just to ignition switch it. I think I found an ignition switched circuit in the underhood fuse box that is designed to add a circuit to the truck. I have to check it with a voltmeter, but that may work.
I picked up up a set of computer drive rails that are going to work perfectly for mounting, and ordered a small sheet of ABS to fabricate a faceplate. Should look good, I all goes well.
ncfireman1918 said:
All you have to have is the options cable, which I have one of. The ignition wire is just the other connector with a wire. I'm a Kenwood dealer and I refuse to pay that price for the ignition wire. The options cable is ok. I can make you a cable for the ignition for the options cable.
Jordan,TCFD
I finally got it installed last week, using the computer drive rails, and fabricated a faceplate from a sheet of ABS. I installed a Larsen through glass antenna that seems to work well so far. I'm happy with the appearance. I'll post a pic when I do a thread on my new setup. The odd thing about the radio is that the backlight worked the first night, but I haven't seen it since. Any thoughts there? There's no button to turn it on/off, so I really don't think it is a setting. Did the bulb/diode blow out? Is it fused internally? Sorry for all the N00B questions on this one.