JohnMarcson
Administrator
I was going to dig out something more kind to try with the beacon but got a case of the " f-its". I have not tried it again, the bulb was covered in what I would call 50% grime and 50% some sort of oil. I was under the assumption I ruined the bulb. I can swap in a "bare" no trigger Edwards bulb and use my old school "trigger in the dome" noname beacon. I got a few good flashes before the output turned to trigger clicks only with voltage (pretty low, like 130v). The bulb in the other one looks physically broken so I am going to be soldering in edwards bulbs in both I bet.Neat!
You used your 20-watt TOMAR emitter PS there?
That strobe head has its own trigger caps (two, blue, plus a bleeder resistor) (and what appears to be a pretty beefy potted trigger xformer in the back).
Have you tried to get it to flash again since you first tried (i.e. after everything bleeds off and fully discharges)?
Thanks for posting! Its neat to see a very different take on this stuff.
In USSR you wait in line for 7 hours for new strobe tube and are told try again tomorrow....In Soviet Russia.. the strobe flashes you!
And.... when they found out I used American Power supply I got thrown in goulag. No strobe tube, no Vodka ration; nothing. They said something about needing manpower for some operation they are doing, wonder what that is...In USSR you wait in line for 7 hours for new strobe tube and are told try again tomorrow....
Was residue from worn suit liner of Soviet Spaceman. You know...Kosmoline....the bulb was covered in what I would call 50% grime and 50% some sort of oil.
First of all I shocked myself with it. It hurt, but I'm fine. 1000 VDC at .048 amps is pain not injury. But no I'm not doing it again for the video. I also shocked myself on the trigger; the trigger voltage is over 200 volts and then it runs through two capacitors before entering the large trigger coil at like 20 volts. It is an odd system, they send continuous high voltage like normal, but then when the trigger activates it's around 50% voltage of the firing strobe. Did they want to avoid building a trigger system and just use timed return/residual voltage from powering the bubs or something? It is very odd. I have the set working, I built a mount for a large trigger coil free bulb and soldered it in. I will have a video out soon. Along the way I used old linear edge tubes with the trigger coil removed to test the function. I am editing the video now.Wow! 1kV? Please be extra careful, John!
I have no clue. The supply was costed in what I assume is super-carcinogenic blue viscus stuff. I figured out the pin out for the plug and sealed it back up. Does that design difference explain the high trigger voltage to the beacon then?Ah! I finally found them in your schematic above! See "VS1" and "VS2" connected to pins "9" and "10" in the schematic -- those are SCRs doing the exact same job as "SCR1" in this Whelen patent
In Whelen's case, when firing, "SCR1" shorts "C9" which is the trigger cap built into the PS. In the Russian PS case, the only thing that's different is that the equivilent of "C9" is mounted _in_ the lighthead in the form of the two blue caps with a bleeder resistor across then for safety.
Any idea what those "DD" parts are in the schematic?
If you measure Whelen's trigger voltage in the PS, it should come it at ~200v.
In the Russian schematic, it looks like "R8" sits between raw anode voltage and the trigger feed. i.e:
View attachment 243689
...so it depends on the value of that as to what the lighthead(s) see on the trigger line.
Note: that setup is similar to the obstruction beacons I've seen. They put the trigger cap and transformer in the lighthead.
I also really dig that it does triple flash!!! That's cool!
Congrats on your great work!