Lights and siren basic questions. Any help appreciated.

[Triple_Blox]

Hello all,

I’ve just started to collect lightbars. I have a few questions, anyone please help, greatly appreciated:

1) do all lightbar controllers need a “brain”. Such as the Federal Signal SSP3000 having a control head and a box with little buttons(?) on it?

2) can you use different brand controllers on different brand lightbars? Such as a SS2000SM setup with a code 3 2100 (or other examples)

That said, here are some specific questions:

3) what controllers/brain works on a Smart Vector Signalmaster lightbar?

Thank you,

Andrew

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

The best advice I can give is to someone getting started is to research the individual bars thst you have. Not only will this help you learn it's options/operation but you are likely to learn things you didn't know to ask.

As to some of your questions... It is easy to confuse terms of components so getting the accurate answer might be tricky. Standard switchboxes are not brand specific but do come in high and low current options. Serial controllers have several names and are brand specific. Some work with multiple bars and some are exclusive to a very specific model. Some bars come in both serial control and standard switching models

When looking up a bar, you should be able to find the components needed to setup.

 

[Triple_Blox]

Hope you can see the images. A quick eLightbars search revealed that the picture below works on the Vector on their own. (I think they are 4 rocker with a slide switch; I got the image straight from Federal's website)

That said, I should be more specific (please help me understand their names):

Would this (I think it's a SS2000SM Control head) >

need this (big giant box with a bunch of ports) >

to connect to lightbar and work properly?

Can I just buy the second image and use it on its own for a Smart Vector (not Vision, I've read about non-compatibility on the Vision)?
Given that most sellers do not accept returns, I am trying not to have to buy an incompatible product.

Thanks for all the help.
-Andrew

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

The first image is just of standard switch boxes with on/off switches.

The next will not function on it's own. The part with the buttons is the Control head and the box with the connections is the Amplifier (or nicknamed The Brain for this setup).

A Smart Vector does not require a special controller. You can run standard switches or switch box like in your first photo. The outputs of the smart siren can control it too if you want to use it.

 

[jdh]

What Jennifer Rose Towing said.
More specifically,
The top picture may have the "federal signal" logo on it, but it will work with any standard lightbar. Both Code 3 and whelen have their own switch boxes, but are interchangeable for the most part.

I believe the second picture is actually for a "smart siren". It does not have the "V" pattern LED's for the bar programing. On a side note, if you can find a working and complete vision, they are a neat bar to play with. However, they used binary programing/need the programing sheets, all three components must have the same revision chip, and are finicky with power.

All in all, most bars do not require any special controllers. I would say that only maybe 20% are a "computer controlled" lightbar.

Make sure you use a good power supply to run them. Most today need pure 12 volt DC due to the electronics inside them. Some of the older bars, like the twinsonic, you could get away with a battery charger (but still not a good thing to do). Also, if you have a halogen rotator bar, with the bayonet base type bulbs, you can change them out to a #93 bulb. You will get the same "pop" but without the extra power drain.

 

[Triple_Blox]

Ok thanks.

Specifically, I have a Federal Signal smart Vector, and all I’m trying to do is make it work. I already found a good 120vac to 12vdc power supply with good amps, and so now im looking for a controller. I’m particularly interested in the SS2000SM because it has a good amount of buttons (I want something that can control the “jog” functions of the alleys—the manual says they must me “momentary contact” switches) and can control the SignalMaster. If anyone has one (or a similar one that has those functions) and are willing to let it go, please pm me.

Regarding the light bulbs, I was going to go LED to save a lot of electricity, but I might consider the type 93.

Thanks for all the help

-Andrew

 

[Triple_Blox]

I also need help identifying this lightbar:


It is an all amber LED bar with halogen TA and halogen alleys and TD. It seems to be a code 3, but I tried testing the Arrowstik and I have no clue how the cables are supposed to change the pattern (if you give power to the dark brown cable and one of the green cables, it goes to a “warn” pattern).
Thanks
-Andrew

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

I made a video about using LED replacements in lightbars. They will work on display bars but not for bars used on vehicles. I know they have issues with the electronics of a Vision but I could not test if the same was true in a Smart Vector smart pods or not. They will look different then a halogen bulb when running but can work on the display. 93 is the lowest power draw and 1156 are lower then the 795 that the smart pods use. Other then the light output and colors being off, H1 LED replacements will work on the display.

As for the bar you are looking to ID, it is a china knockoff bar and typically low to junk for value.

Using LED replacements in halogen based bars, Answering questions and showing why in a video...

I created these 2 videos to answer the question that comes up a lot, "Can I use an LED instead of a halogen bulb in my lightbar?" The short answer is it depends... Depends on the specific reflector, LED size/style and your intended use with the lightbar. See individual bulb results along with...

elightbars.org

This is the thread on LED replacements. One quick vid and one more in-depth longer one.

 

[jdh]

As for the bar you are looking to ID, it is a china knockoff bar and typically low to junk for value.

I was thinking a franken-bar. Code 3 shell with knock off inners.

 

[Jennifer Rose Towing]

I was thinking a franken-bar. Code 3 shell with knock off inners.

The one pictured uses screws to hold the domes, otherwise quite a close copy.