LP6000 55w fast rotator to slower rotator speed

Jacob K

Member
Jul 27, 2019
64
15
Canada
Hello!
I have an LP6000 with 4 (what I believe to be) fast rotators and I want to slow them down to replicate my city's older bar they used to use. Is there a way to slow them down without me having to purchase the slower rotator that is separate from the one I have now?

Here is a video of what I'm trying to get:

Here is my bar currently:

Thanks in advance!
 
Most Code 3 fast rotators were 9vdc motors running on 12 vdc. Although in my bucket of code 3 rotators I seem to have a few different speeds and gear styles, not to mention h1 and 795 bulb versions of the LP. What version do you need? I probably have the motors or the whole rotator.
 
Most Code 3 fast rotators were 9vdc motors running on 12 vdc. Although in my bucket of code 3 rotators I seem to have a few different speeds and gear styles, not to mention h1 and 795 bulb versions of the LP. What version do you need? I probably have the motors or the whole rotator.
Whatever you think the speed is in the first video(not of my lightbar) are. I am not familiar with the speeds and how they look so I think you would know best.
 
You can just swap the motor, plenty out there and should be cheap. I only know of 2 shaft sizes for the worm gear with one being more common. It's the same motor that the MX7000 uses.

There are other ways but this will definitely be the easiest and simplest. Shouldn't even need to do any wiring as the power lead should slide into the barrier strip.
 
You can just swap the motor, plenty out there and should be cheap. I only know of 2 shaft sizes for the worm gear with one being more common. It's the same motor that the MX7000 uses.

There are other ways but this will definitely be the easiest and simplest. Shouldn't even need to do any wiring as the power lead should slide into the barrier strip.
With the bar that I showed in the first youtube video, what motor do you think that would be?
 
With the bar that I showed in the first youtube video, what motor do you think that would be?
The MX and LP bars use the same motors, just available in different speeds. Many many other bars including other brands use that same motor, it is very common, you are wanting a standard speed version.
 
The MX and LP bars use the same motors, just available in different speeds. Many many other bars including other brands use that same motor, it is very common, you are wanting a standard speed version.
Kk so I will need 4 of the 50w Bayonet standard rotator motors. Thank you so much for the help everyone.

Does anyone around here have 4 I could pick up?
 
You can use a PWM to have an adjustable motor speed. You can get one from Amazon just find the right Amp rating.
 
You can use a PWM to have an adjustable motor speed. You can get one from Amazon just find the right Amp rating.
Yes but tgen needing to rewire every motor. The majority of those run on the negative side but the motors are grounded through their mount. Then you would need to run an additional wire to each motor and resolder the ground. The LP bars use screw terminal blocks to connect. So swapping a motor is literally the 2 screws on the mount and 1 screw on the terminal block for the wire. No soldering, no wire terminals to attach and those motors are a dime a dozen.
 
Kk so I will need 4 of the 50w Bayonet standard rotator motors. Thank you so much for the help everyone.

Does anyone around here have 4 I could pick up?
It's just the motor you need, the bulb/bulb base does not matter. Use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws in the front of the motor. Then loosen the screw for the power wire, reverse to install. Done. No need to remove the whole light assembly if you dont want to.Screenshot_20230512_214356_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20230512_235734_Gallery.jpg
 
I have myself a few code 3 bars where the motors have a resistor, looks 1 Watt one, in line with the motor's power lead to slow it down. Those must be like 50 cents each in any electronic surplus store. I'd have to get the proper color codes on the resistors.
 

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I have myself a few code 3 bars where the motors have a resistor, looks 1 Watt one, in line with the motor's power lead to slow it down. Those must be like 50 cents each in any electronic surplus store. I'd have to get the proper color codes on the resistors.
I have a few like that too. I'm going to look through the many generations I have.
 
In my code 3 LP box I have fast and slow motors (9vdc and 12vdc) as well as "fast and slow gears" powered by 12vdc motors. OP is sending me pics of his rotator gears so I can try to match the right motor gear combo to get him as close to the old 60fpm slow rotator as possible.

The pic is just an example of the variations. I have a bunch more with combos of the rotator, worm gear, and motor that change.

I am betting OP needs combo of "white" rotator gear and "white" worm gear with a 12vdc motor. I have many of each.

code 3 rot gear.PNG
 
I know this is completely unrelated to this topic, but also looking for a speaker that can fit in the speaker grille on my LP6000, I have one but it's too big.
A specific name can help me from there, just need to find one that fits.
 
I know this is completely unrelated to this topic, but also looking for a speaker that can fit in the speaker grille on my LP6000, I have one but it's too big.
A specific name can help me from there, just need to find one that fits.
I have the one that will work for your LP6000. It's the correct Lo-Pro style with the half cone shroud to accommodate the LP6000 speaker grill.
 
In my code 3 LP box I have fast and slow motors (9vdc and 12vdc) as well as "fast and slow gears" powered by 12vdc motors. OP is sending me pics of his rotator gears so I can try to match the right motor gear combo to get him as close to the old 60fpm slow rotator as possible.

The pic is just an example of the variations. I have a bunch more with combos of the rotator, worm gear, and motor that change.

I am betting OP needs combo of "white" rotator gear and "white" worm gear with a 12vdc motor. I have many of each.

View attachment 244413
If you have either of the two motors on the bottom right, they are the same motor. the speed is changed by the gear. White is slow, black is fast. no tools needed. Use your thumb to press the motor gear toward the rotator gear so it doesnt slip, grab the "arm" of the rotator (that the filter mounts to) and rotate the rotator AWAY from the motor. This pulls the gear off the motor. Press the new gear back on and use the same method to adjust the gear on the motor rod in order to find the sweet spot for noise. Note: they were always noisy anyway. Just adjust to find the least noisy spot.

I used to build these things. You can change all four rotator speeds in under one minute.

As far as the earlier motors that had a resistor looking thing on it, those were for RFI noise reduction only. nothing to do with speed or voltage going to the motor.

The motor pictured on the bottom left above is the latest version of rotator. Those had two different motor voltages to change speeds.
 
If you have either of the two motors on the bottom right, they are the same motor. the speed is changed by the gear. White is slow, black is fast. no tools needed. Use your thumb to press the motor gear toward the rotator gear so it doesnt slip, grab the "arm" of the rotator (that the filter mounts to) and rotate the rotator AWAY from the motor. This pulls the gear off the motor. Press the new gear back on and use the same method to adjust the gear on the motor rod in order to find the sweet spot for noise. Note: they were always noisy anyway. Just adjust to find the least noisy spot.

I used to build these things. You can change all four rotator speeds in under one minute.

As far as the earlier motors that had a resistor looking thing on it, those were for RFI noise reduction only. nothing to do with speed or voltage going to the motor.

The motor pictured on the bottom left above is the latest version of rotator. Those had two different motor voltages to change speeds.
I'm working on shipping to get him the worm gears, I wouldn't go so far as to say they were easy to get off of the motors, but they did definitely interchange nicely on the other ones I had. The oldest one shattered when I pulled it off. The resistor looking things are capacitors and they are in fact to reduce electrical noise. Federal signal used different voltage motors for speed in some cases, I do not see any record of code 3 doing that it looks to be all gear-based. Shipping to Canada is a big pain and I'm trying to find the sweet spot to get him the most parts for the least shipping. The goal was to just send the worm gears but if shipping is going to cost the same for the worm gears as sending him the rest of the assembly which is now useless to me.... I will send the whole unit.
 
I'm working on shipping to get him the worm gears, I wouldn't go so far as to say they were easy to get off of the motors, but they did definitely interchange nicely on the other ones I had. The oldest one shattered when I pulled it off. The resistor looking things are capacitors and they are in fact to reduce electrical noise. Federal signal used different voltage motors for speed in some cases, I do not see any record of code 3 doing that it looks to be all gear-based. Shipping to Canada is a big pain and I'm trying to find the sweet spot to get him the most parts for the least shipping. The goal was to just send the worm gears but if shipping is going to cost the same for the worm gears as sending him the rest of the assembly which is now useless to me.... I will send the whole unit.
JohnMarcson: do you still have some black gear? would like to make my rotator fast on my xl5100.... let me know.....thanks
 

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