I can't for the life of me figure out how to mount these, if you don't have a rain gutter. The manual doesn't really give good instructions on how to do so.
mounting mx7000?
- Thread starter azmyth
- Start date
SireLite
Member
Get a pair of gutterless mounts appropriate for your application:
You'll need to pull the door gasket back on each side, and install each mounting bracket with 5 sheetmetal screws.
You'll need to pull the door gasket back on each side, and install each mounting bracket with 5 sheetmetal screws.
I have those brackets, but these are going on a hearse. I tried to use those but the black "tab" that is on the light bar doesn't line up for those brackets to sit down flat on the roof.. do i have to bend the tab?
If they don't fit the curve of your roof, then you probably don't have the right gutterless mounts for your application. There are several different kits available: http://www.code3pse.com/products/product_info/Warn/Accessories/H_MTKA#
Hey, I have the same lightbar on my chevy 1500. I screwed the brackets into the gutter on the truck behind the door. Also I took the bolt to home depot and got a much longer one with a new nut. Getting the longer bolt gave me tons more room to play with. Hope this helps!
EVModules
Member
here they are..
and here's a close up of where the light is now.. only thing holding em on is the cable right now.. (hasn't been driven obviously)
and here's a close up of where the light is now.. only thing holding em on is the cable right now.. (hasn't been driven obviously)
Respondcode3 said:
I was waiting for that lol.
Little project I started for my 3 year old, who loves it. Gonna cruise around on Halloween, and use it in parades and do some birthday parties and charity stuff with it.
Bolts through the roof will probably be your best option in the rear. On each mounting foot are those two rubber pads. Each rubber pad is held on with a nut, a washer, and a carriage bolt. If you can get them apart without breaking the bolts in half, you're a lucky man.
Take the old hardware out, and get some new hardware. Make sure everything is made of stainless steel. Get some longer carriage bolts, some flat washers, some lock nuts with the nylon inserts, and some fender washers. It may be obvious, but the fender washers go inside the car to keep rest of the the hardware from pulling through the roof.
Take the old hardware out, and get some new hardware. Make sure everything is made of stainless steel. Get some longer carriage bolts, some flat washers, some lock nuts with the nylon inserts, and some fender washers. It may be obvious, but the fender washers go inside the car to keep rest of the the hardware from pulling through the roof.
EVModules
Member
I agree with Shues, with a roof like that, you have no other options.
I suggest looking under the headliner before drilling any holes so you'd know what you're up against. You may need to move the bar to take advantage of the cross beam. Anywhere else, you might find the roof buckling under light pressure but if luck goes your way, the roof will be thicker than modern cars.
I suggest looking under the headliner before drilling any holes so you'd know what you're up against. You may need to move the bar to take advantage of the cross beam. Anywhere else, you might find the roof buckling under light pressure but if luck goes your way, the roof will be thicker than modern cars.
I'd think about moving the front bar back a little to where it lines up with the B pillar the roof should be a little better supported there. i'd also spin the rear bar around so the intersection sweeps face the back.
Shawn L
Member
Some huge fender washers, or even some steel flat bar strips mounted on the inside of the roof will offer some structural strength I always add that on fire apparatus, most of the time I use pieces that are about 4-6 inches long I mount them so they run from the front to the back on the inside to add some strength