My lightbar project

[Storm82]

After doing some thinking, I decided to have some fun with my Chinese light bar, by using it to build my own.


Right now my plan is to remove the factory flasher and replace it with a ulf44 flasher from Whelen.


I have 14 heads total, so I need to figure out how to wire them.


Idea #1 split the front heads, 2 per output, and wire the center heads and the head on the ends as take downs and alley lights.


The back would be split 3 per output.


Idea #2 split front and rear 3 per output, with alley lights.


Or find a way to tie the alley lights into an output or split them between outputs, so they will flash with the rest of the bar.


Idea #3 which is a long term idea, is to gut the entire bar, and build a full custom bar using Feniex heads and internals.


The main part of each module is a reflector, if the led portion is removed, a T6 could be mounted downward into the reflector, T3 could be used for the centers and alleys.


I am not sure how the reflector would affect the light output though, so that is a tentative idea.


Another idea would be to mount the T6's using L brackets, in either single or double stack, but, I would have to figure out how to make up for the difference in length between the T6's and the existing modules.

 

[hfdemt4095]

Let's see it in action to begin with!!

 

[Storm82]

Let's see it in action to begin with!!

Yup, I am going to work on getting a video of it, that is not a night video.

 

[Storm4200]

Replace every single inboard head with a Feniex T6. Do the 4 corners and the two ally positions, with DUO Apollos. set them so they can override white for allys. For takedowns i would do a pair of Titan100s. You may be able to get away without a flasher at all. You can sync the entire bar and then switch the lights in groups. (1 switch does a rear pair, one switch does full bar etc)

 

[Storm82]

Replace every single inboard head with a Feniex T6. Do the 4 corners and the two ally positions, with DUO Apollos. set them so they can override white for allys. For takedowns i would do a pair of Titan100s. You may be able to get away without a flasher at all. You can sync the entire bar and then switch the lights in groups. (1 switch does a rear pair, one switch does full bar etc)

That sounds like a good plan.

One question, on the ends and the corners, are you referring to F6's?

 

[Storm4200]

Yes sir

 

[Storm82]

Yes sir

Gotcha, I kinda figured so on the end, wasn't sure on the corners.

That would be cool, I could set the ends to double as alley lights, the corners could be setup like a cruise light function.

 

[Storm4200]

Yeah, the possibilities are endless. What colors do u run?

 

[Storm82]

Well, I run red, that is the allotted color for fire/ems in my state.


I pretty much run the standard color combination that comes on the bar, my light bar right now is red, with white center in front, amber center to the rear, and white alleys.


White, amber, and green are fair game also, even though green is primarily a command color in the fire service, our state plow trucks also run green.

 

[Storm4200]

What if you bought an Apollo800 and try to mount that in the rear of the bar, or gut the stick and mount the internals in the bar. This would give you red/amber warning with an amber override traffic advisor

 

[Storm82]

What if you bought an Apollo800 and try to mount that in the rear of the bar, or gut the stick and mount the internals in the bar. This would give you red/amber warning with an amber override traffic advisor

Hmm, I would have to think about that. This is already going to be expensive enough with out the 800.


I figure 10 Apollo F-6's, 10 Cobra T-6's, and 2 Titan 5" work lights.


On second thought, that is going to almost be more expensive than just buying a full Feniex bar.

 

[vpogv]

While the components are cheaper how are the materials that makes up housing?  Will this housing yellow quicker than others?  

 

[Storm82]

https://youtu.be/o6JnyqrDU_o

Ok, so here it is, a video of my light bar in action. Not the best video, but the best I can do at the moment.

So, for referemce, white is to the front, amber is to the back.

 

[Storm4200]

And you're going to replace that with 22 feniex heads?

 

[Storm82]

And you're going to replace that with 22 feniex heads?

I was considering that, but thinking about how much it would cost, I have abandoned that idea.

Still considering a pair of ulf44 flashers for it though.


I have be thinking about doing the red led heads on one flasher unit, and the center and alley heads on a second flasher.


I have been told by a few different people that this is a super bright light bar, the 2 things that really bug me about this bar, is the left scroll (directional) pattern, is faster than the right, and the fact that it has a proprietary controller.

 

[Storm4200]

I was gonna say. That's gonna cost a fortune

 

[Storm82]

I have always found it interesting though, for being a no name light bar that it has front and rear cut off capability.

 

[KLC]

I was considering that, but thinking about how much it would cost, I have abandoned that idea.


Still considering a pair of ulf44 flashers for it though.


I have be thinking about doing the red led heads on one flasher unit, and the center and alley heads on a second flasher.


I have been told by a few different people that this is a super bright light bar, the 2 things that really bug me about this bar, is the left scroll (directional) pattern, is faster than the right, and the fact that it has a proprietary controller.

I hope your project goes well. I also rebuilt a Chinese built lightbar that my wife purchased for me (with all good intentions). The unique flasher/control unit burned out and some of the LED's stopped working after a year (It was under a two year waranty). Got the run around from the manfacturer (United Safety Equipment) and they stopped all communication with me when I sent them pictures of the bad flasher/control board showing damage by internal water leaks as they requested. Since it was a gift, I was determined to rebuild it better, stronger, faster! Disassembled the light bar totally, down to the frame. Took the LED modules apart and replaced all the original LEDs with new ones. Installed one SHO-ME 11.1005 and two 11.1010 SF Arrow flashers. All connections inside the light bar are soldered and sealed with shrink tubing. Properly sealed the light bar from moisture. The rebuilt light bar is now ten times brighter, especially in day light, and has more usable flash patterns than before.