My new build need opinions

jmamrak

Established Member
Here is my new build! I’ve been working on it for a while. I’ve bought a supervisor u that I am waiting to get in the mail from Wilson. Below is a list of the lights I have installed and a list of the ones that I have in inventory that I can add.

Front : Nforce surface mounts red. SOS head light flasher on fast single flash.

Sides: red intersectors, red nforce light on back door, 2 tir4 on step boards x2 sides.

Rear: nforce duals x2 on top. Set of 4 whelen universal HAWs in reverse and brake lights.

Audible: Code 3 200 watt H2 siren and 2 speakers. Federal signal C5 siren with apparatus foot switch.


Inventory: 2 white vertex and 2 red/white Feniex cannons.

Here’s a video of my truck.


 

Jacob D Gambill

New Member
This looks pretty sweet! The one thing I noticed is the lights behind the grille could probably be moved infront of the grille or relocate them to your license plate. The lower lights and wigwags will wash them.
 

Jarred J.

Archive Expert
Silver Supporter
Lights in the rear doors need to be moved to the camper top...

Other than that looks good
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I think that's a camera reflection. All lights seem to have a ghost above them.
Yes you’re right I don’t have any lights in my grille.

Lights in the rear doors need to be moved to the camper top...

Other than that looks good
I had to drill to put the rear window lights in and I’d rather add some to the camper top as opposed to moving them because I have holes in my door panels.

Any ideas where to put the cannons or vertexs? I will make a video of my controls and sirens too.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I bought an led tailgate light bar $12 that I will hook to the STTR functions wired threw a sho me tail light flasher.
 

pdk9

Veteran Member
Here is my new build! I’ve been working on it for a while. I’ve bought a supervisor u that I am waiting to get in the mail from Wilson. Below is a list of the lights I have installed and a list of the ones that I have in inventory that I can add.

Front : Nforce surface mounts red. SOS head light flasher on fast single flash.

Sides: red intersectors, red nforce light on back door, 2 tir4 on step boards x2 sides.

Rear: nforce duals x2 on top. Set of 4 whelen universal HAWs in reverse and brake lights.

Audible: Code 3 200 watt H2 siren and 2 speakers. Federal signal C5 siren with apparatus foot switch.


Inventory: 2 white vertex and 2 red/white Feniex cannons.
What I’d suggest:

Put a pair of M7 or M6 grill lights on each side of the Ford logo & use the dual color cannons in the fogs (steady clear fog/flash red for warning). The M-series in front of the grill will be more effective than the nforces down low and anything mounted behind the grill

Move the front nforce grill lights to the running boards to replace the TIR4’s (scrap the TIR4’s)

Move the side window nforce further back (inside the topper over the rear wheel well)

itll look solid with the full ILB that you’re getting
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I will keep my eyes open for M6 and M7’s for my grille. I can install the cannons. Do I need any more rear warning? I would also be in favor of using the FireWire led strips for my running boards in the future. I am looking forward to my ILB and I’ll post a video when I get it.
 

pdk9

Veteran Member
I will keep my eyes open for M6 and M7’s for my grille. I can install the cannons. Do I need any more rear warning? I would also be in favor of using the FireWire led strips for my running boards in the future. I am looking forward to my ILB and I’ll post a video when I get it.
Cannons look good. Did you setup the cannons to steady clear for fog light replacement?

While you wait for the M6/M7, what do you think about moving your current nforce up there in front of the grill? I don’t think they’re in the optimal location for effectiveness down by the front LP area.

How/where did you mount the C5? I love it.

I don’t think you NEED more rear warning (since it’s sufficient already IMO) but something on the rear LP wouldn’t be bad (maybe amber/clear that flash amber and steady burn clear with reverse lights?)

I’m not super impressed by FireWire, but I think you should take a look at SNM’s new TailGator...it looks like their alternative to the Whelen Tracer. Although it’s designed for tailgate, it looks like a good option for running board with the dual color clear as a flood/side illumination
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
Cannons look good. Did you setup the cannons to steady clear for fog light replacement?

While you wait for the M6/M7, what do you think about moving your current nforce up there in front of the grill? I don’t think they’re in the optimal location for effectiveness down by the front LP area.

How/where did you mount the C5? I love it.

I don’t think you NEED more rear warning (since it’s sufficient already IMO) but something on the rear LP wouldn’t be bad (maybe amber/clear that flash amber and steady burn clear with reverse lights?)

I’m not super impressed by FireWire, but I think you should take a look at SNM’s new TailGator...it looks like their alternative to the Whelen Tracer. Although it’s designed for tailgate, it looks like a good option for running board with the dual color clear as a flood/side illumination
I set up the cannons so fog light mode always overrides warning mode. I would rather have the illumination be primary.

I will try to move the nforces but I’m looking for a set of whelen lights.

The C5 is here.

I would like 2 more cannons to surface mount in amber white for rear warning and backup lights.

I’ll check out SNM’s lights.
 

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pdk9

Veteran Member
I set up the cannons so fog light mode always overrides warning mode. I would rather have the illumination be primary.

I will try to move the nforces but I’m looking for a set of whelen lights.

The C5 is here.

I would like 2 more cannons to surface mount in amber white for rear warning and backup lights.

I’ll check out SNM’s lights.
Did you have to add another battery for the C5? The mechanical sirens suck up so many amps every time you step on the pedal lol (it’s sad but funny when you see old apparatus that were poorly wired and the halogen lights turn off every time they wind it up; luckily we don’t see that problem as much with everything being LED nowadays)

I’d recommend against the cannon surface mount as scene lighting. I don’t think any LAW does a good job of illumination for that purpose; I think they only look effective when mounted inside a reflector housing (with good placement), such as a brake or reverse light. If you want something low pro with dual functionality, I’d recommend the sound off mPower fascia dual color or Whelen ion T duo....both are extremely thin/compact and can go on the rear LP area or under the tailgate
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
Did you have to add another battery for the C5? The mechanical sirens suck up so many amps every time you step on the pedal lol (it’s sad but funny when you see old apparatus that were poorly wired and the halogen lights turn off every time they wind it up; luckily we don’t see that problem as much with everything being LED nowadays)

I’d recommend against the cannon surface mount as scene lighting. I don’t think any LAW does a good job of illumination for that purpose; I think they only look effective when mounted inside a reflector housing (with good placement), such as a brake or reverse light. If you want something low pro with dual functionality, I’d recommend the sound off mPower fascia dual color or Whelen ion T duo....both are extremely thin/compact and can go on the rear LP area or under the tailgate
No extra battery for the C5. I do have an optima deep cycle that I can isolate if I wanted to. But honestly it doesn’t bother my 65 series in my f150. No issues when it was previously in my old f150. It doesn’t draw as much as a Q. I have an DC amp clamp and it draws about 60 amps continuously (200 peak) but I only have it fused for 30 amps? Not sure why I’ve never blown a fuse.

I used the hideaway inside my topper facing down from the ceiling. It’s inside the housing of my old light that had a focused lens. It takes the haw and makes a clean focused circle. For my tools and equipment. One of the pics has the lens cover on it. Compared to the old light it’s a great improvement!

I really want to get some ions. They are used all over my area by pd and they seem great!
 

pdk9

Veteran Member
No extra battery for the C5. I do have an optima deep cycle that I can isolate if I wanted to. But honestly it doesn’t bother my 65 series in my f150. No issues when it was previously in my old f150. It doesn’t draw as much as a Q. I have an DC amp clamp and it draws about 60 amps continuously (200 peak) but I only have it fused for 30 amps? Not sure why I’ve never blown a fuse.

I used the hideaway inside my topper facing down from the ceiling. It’s inside the housing of my old light that had a focused lens. It takes the haw and makes a clean focused circle. For my tools and equipment. One of the pics has the lens cover on it. Compared to the old light it’s a great improvement!

I really want to get some ions. They are used all over my area by pd and they seem great!
Exactly, the LAWs do a good job when they are mounted inside a housing or reflector, but IMO they do a poor job for scenelighting as a standalone surface-mount, hence why I don’t recommend them for surface mount.

Yes, the ions are great. I recommended the T-duo for your application as an exterior mount b/c they have a linear optic (providing good head-on & off-axis warning), as opposed to the traditional ion with a TIR optic that is better for mounting behind tint or a grill (b/c it has strong head on punch but poor off-axis), AND they’re super slim.

Overall, I think it’s a great build as it stands, and i look forward to seeing it with some M6/M7 grill lights and some better running board lights
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
Exactly, the LAWs do a good job when they are mounted inside a housing or reflector, but IMO they do a poor job for scenelighting as a standalone surface-mount, hence why I don’t recommend them for surface mount.

Yes, the ions are great. I recommended the T-duo for your application as an exterior mount b/c they have a linear optic (providing good head-on & off-axis warning), as opposed to the traditional ion with a TIR optic that is better for mounting behind tint or a grill (b/c it has strong head on punch but poor off-axis), AND they’re super slim.

Overall, I think it’s a great build as it stands, and i look forward to seeing it with some M6/M7 grill lights and some better running board lights
I agree I found a good deal on some M7’s when I get the money together. I found a NOS set for $200. I also found a set of 700’s for $160. Both in red.

What are your thoughts on mechanical vs electronic sirens? Just curious
 
What are your thoughts on mechanical vs electronic sirens? Just curious
I'll chime in on this even though you weren't asking me lol. I think mechanical sirens are AWESOME on big trucks (fire engines). On small vehicles such as your pickup, I feel it's out of place. Still cool! Just out of place. I think smaller vehicles should stick with running a good dual tone 200w electronic siren. But, it's all just my opinion.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I'll chime in on this even though you weren't asking me lol. I think mechanical sirens are AWESOME on big trucks (fire engines). On small vehicles such as your pickup, I feel it's out of place. Still cool! Just out of place. I think smaller vehicles should stick with running a good dual tone 200w electronic siren. But, it's all just my opinion.
Thanks for your reply! I do have a 200 watt siren in addition to my mechanical. I like my C5 because it’s not as in your face as a Q. My captain said it sounds like a pissed off Q. I like being able to kick on my C5 when I need it. I really think it works. Now espically with the eq2b and the fake mechanical tones most people don’t even know that it’s real. And with increasing vehicle insulation and distraction, I’ll take every advantage I can get.
 

pdk9

Veteran Member
I agree I found a good deal on some M7’s when I get the money together. I found a NOS set for $200. I also found a set of 700’s for $160. Both in red.

What are your thoughts on mechanical vs electronic sirens? Just curious
Sounds good. Just remember that good deals usually don’t last for a while. I’d hold off and wait for the M7’s over the 700’s. Not only are they significantly brighter, but they look nice aesthetically when they’re off.

To be honest, I think it’s cool but unnecessary to have a mechanical on a POV.
Overall, I love the mechanicals, BUT a lot of ppl don’t use them properly b/c they keep it peaked when they get excited instead of letting it cycle (just like how they hold down on air horns instead of giving multiple bursts). They’re definitely louder from a distance, and I drive with both when going through heavy traffic areas and intersections.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
Sounds good. Just remember that good deals usually don’t last for a while. I’d hold off and wait for the M7’s over the 700’s. Not only are they significantly brighter, but they look nice aesthetically when they’re off.

To be honest, I think it’s cool but unnecessary to have a mechanical on a POV.
Overall, I love the mechanicals, BUT a lot of ppl don’t use them properly b/c they keep it peaked when they get excited instead of letting it cycle (just like how they hold down on air horns instead of giving multiple bursts). They’re definitely louder from a distance, and I drive with both when going through heavy traffic areas and intersections.
I agree. People don’t understand how to use a siren. Plus it can damage the clutch keeping it peaked for so long.
I got my ILB up. It’s not permanent as I didn’t level it right yet or run the wires properly. This is my next step of the build. I am still going to video the inside and wiring when it’s complete.
 

nerdly_dood

Veteran Member
As it is now, assuming you don't want to add any amber or change colors to add amber to the rear, I'd say adjust the flash pattern for the rear upper lights so that both lights on the left side of the truck flash against the pair on the right hand side of the truck. That way, at a distance, the eye interprets them as being bigger and brighter. By adding the interior lightbar in front you've already solved the biggest issue with your earlier videos, and your flash pattern isn't criminally insane, so you're just about done as it is now.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
As it is now, assuming you don't want to add any amber or change colors to add amber to the rear, I'd say adjust the flash pattern for the rear upper lights so that both lights on the left side of the truck flash against the pair on the right hand side of the truck. That way, at a distance, the eye interprets them as being bigger and brighter. By adding the interior lightbar in front you've already solved the biggest issue with your earlier videos, and your flash pattern isn't criminally insane, so you're just about done as it is now.
Thanks for the suggestions. I have to add an external flasher to change the patterns on my ILB which I plan to add eventually. And the rear lights need and external flasher as well to change the patterns. The rears I can set to flash together. But not wigwag. Here is a new video of the inside and under hood of my install!

I also added a Feniex scene light bar in the front.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
Are there any techniques for silencing the noise of the power inverter? On my last vehicle it was in the trunk. Now it’s under my seat and it’s noisy!
 

Jarred J.

Archive Expert
Silver Supporter
is it a fan?
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I also now bought 4 whelen tir3’s and 2 911ep ls12’s. I am planning on wiring up something in the rear topper windows as well. And suggestions?
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
I have planning an update to my install thread. I have done lots of research and upgrades to my vehicle. Primarily the electrical system for my newly installed Q2b. Let me preface this with one caveat. My stock system was able to handle the Q just fine. Although it did dim the lights. I then started on a quest to make the perfect setup for me. I did it on a budget. So the obvious $400 HO alternator upgrade was out of the battery question. I did the next best thing. First I took 2 Optima batteries and mounted them in the bed as an AUX battery bank. The next step was find the perfect solenoid to control the Q. I used one recommended by Henry455 a 900A make /600A break continuous duty cycle solenoid. I can list part numbers at the end. After that I wired the AUX bank to the main battery. I used single 1 awg for positive and two 4 awg wires for negative. I also used a 2/0 and grounded both batteries to the frame. I ran these wires to the front in a loom. I used 150 amp fuses at both ends for the 1 awg power wire. Next I used plywood to mount several components. Buss bar with 8 terminals, relay, battery shut off switch, 4 mega fuses and a Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR). I then wired my AUX battery cable threw a fuse and to my Pos buss bar. I then connected all of my loads, air compressor, siren lighting controller, Q2b, and battery switch to my Positive buss bar. I then attached a jumper to my Pos bus bar to my VSR. Then from the VSR to my starting battery. The VSR works to connect my starting battery/alternator to my aux battery bank. With all of my loads wired to the AUX battery I can leave my loads running without worry of draining my starter battery. Now here comes the best part. The VSR has an override wire. I have that override wire hooked to my Q2b solenoid. When I wind up the Q it disconnects the alternator from the equation. It only reconnects after ten seconds of no Q. This was able to remove the 100A load from my alternator. When my VSR reconnects there is about a 40 amp recharge to my battery bank. This removes the strain from your vehicles alternator. This could be done with only solenoids. But the advantage of the VSR is its smart technology. It automatically connects at 13.2 volts and disconnects at 12.7 volts and has the separate override wire. I am very pleased with the results. The VSR that I used is rated for 140 amps and if made by a company called BEP Marine. With my two optima batteries I will have around 20 minutes of continuous peak Q2b function. I have pictures to post also.
 
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jmamrak

jmamrak

Established Member
What this setup allows is
1. smart charging
2. auto disconnect for Q and remains off for ten extra seconds.
3. Allows jump starting your starter battery from AUX BATT bank
4. emergency lights on with engine off and won’t drain starting battery
5. Will automatically close if using a trickle charger/maintainer to charge both
6. Reduces alternator strain
7. Quickly reversible back to stock if you sell your vehicle
Pics / vids to follow
 

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