Need help wiring a solenoid...

[FFRNDAN]

I'm working on installing my setup in my pickup, and wanted to make sure there is no "parasitic drain" on the battery. So, I figured I would use a solenoid wired to an ignition source. I picked up a "stock ford starter solenoid" from ebay for about $10. Looks like this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/10/12VKeyOn/Images/1_sm.jpg


And proceeded to wire it up. I got the trigger side wired up, and had to go to dinner with the girl. 20min round trip, the solenoid was triggered on the whole time. When I got back, it was too hot to touch. What did I do wrong? Or is this solenoid just not designed for 100% duty cycle?


Thanks for any help!

 

[Bfat567]

Mechanics correct me if im wrong, but isnt that a ford starter solenoid?...which would not normally be on all the time but only on starter crank. If so it would not be used to being on for extended periods of time.

 

[FFRNDAN]

Mechanics correct me if im wrong, but isnt that a ford starter solenoid?...which would not normally be on all the time but only on starter crank. If so it would not be used to being on for extended periods of time.

I'm thinking this is the case, I'm looking for a continuous duty cycle solenoid now.

 

[EngCo4]

Most of those "starter solenoids" even though they carry heavy


loads, are only good for intermittent use. The part of the solenoid


that "heats up" is the energizer coil that moves the contact to


the "closed" position. These solenoids are good for handling a


large mechanical siren or other large intermittent load.


If you want a "continuously on" 'solenid', you REALLY want what


is known as a "latching relay" which is designed to stay "on" when


energized continuously.


Right idea, just different animal. "Latching relays" can be found at


most electrical supply houses or through "Mouser.com" on line.


Make sure that you get a relay that will handle at least 20% MORE


than the maximum load you planon running through it. (Safety factor).


Some makers of these relays (I'm REALLY old here!) are/were Potter &


Brumfield and Cutler-Hammer.


Hope this helps.

 

[FFRNDAN]

I believe either of these would suit my purposes:


Cole Hersee 24059 - 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid


Continuous Duty Solenoid, 12 Volt


I need something waterproof, as this is going under the hood.

 

[medic550]

I use a 3 terminal one that is used on school buses for different things.. 100amp continous duty solenoid. Two big terminals One coming in from battery and one going out. Then there is a little terminal that i run to a fuse in the underhood fuse panel to turn solenoid on with key turn. Plus it has to be secured to metal as the ground. I mounted one on the firewall of my 04 tahoe.

 

[EVModules]

EngCo4,


I disagree. It's a matter of selecting the correct solenoid for the job.


There are many variants that are designed for certain circuits. What you need is a continuous duty solenoid. That 100a will do but I'd suggest that you purchase a 3a diode and bridge the coil terminals with the band side towards the positive. This will prevent "spike back" when the solenoid is de-engergized. My personal favorite is the 24143, which is 200a and can switch higher live loads.


Sometimes, solenoids (or relays for 30a or less) are paired up with delay timers.

 

[rongstad]

I'd suggest that you purchase a 3a diode and bridge the coil terminals with the band side towards the positive. This will prevent "spike back" when the solenoid is de-engergized. My personal favorite is the 24143, which is 200a and can switch higher live loads. Sometimes, solenoids (or relays for 30a or less) are paired up with delay timers.

Can you post a diagram on how to install the diode on the solenoid? thanks -od-

 

[Dave]

I have a 300a continous duty solenoid i purchased from ebay 2 or 3 years ago works great (knock on wood). it was like $50

 

[EVModules]

Can you post a diagram on how to install the diode on the solenoid? thanks -od-

The wire in the upper left is just to illustrate where I obtained the insulation to cover the bare leads of the diode. Note the band side towards the yellow, which is to connect to the positive side of the solenoid. The terminals are oriented upside-down so they are installed first and the positive & ground side are installed right-side-up on top of the terminals in the same direction to make things neat.


If anyone's curious about the crimping, I purposely use the "non-insulated" crimping method. They grab better than the "insulated" crimp.