Need help with custom lighting control head

[Reno911]

For my chp restoration. I plan on utilizing the shell of a CHP S810 radio control head(which originally controlled all the lighting). I have about 15 buttons that I want to use. I found these little push switches on eBay that are the perfect size( item 130880892246).


Are there any problems I could have running a positive wire from the console power junction box up to a main power push switch, then running a wire off of it to another switch, then jumper wires connecting the rest.


Soldering everything of course.


The I want the control head to have buttons for the light bar functions, wig wag, traffic adviser, spot light, etc.


Should I relay the power? Where? Will the switches handle it?


Please give opinions and guidance for this 17yr old electrical noob:haha:


Trying to make my restoration better and different than others

 

[Reno911]

I also forgot, is there anything other than heat shrink tubing that I can put over the soldering on the switch prongs to protect them?

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

I also forgot, is there anything other than heat shrink tubing that I can put over the soldering on the switch prongs to protect them?

Liquid electrical tape...electrical tape...etc. But heat shrink is of course the best.

 

[Reno911]

Liquid electrical tape...electrical tape...etc. But heat shrink is of course the best.

Thanks! I guess I could slip a little bit bigger tubing over both wires for the power side. I'll look around for the liquid electrical tape too.

 

[calebsheltonmed23]

Thanks! I guess I could slip a little bit bigger tubing over both wires for the power side. I'll look around for the liquid electrical tape too.

If the connectors are already on and you don't want to remove them or can't, use 3:1 shrink tubing instead of tradition 2:1. The liquid tape is at lowes, o'reiley's, etc. Takes a while to dry tho.

 

[Reno911]

If the connectors are already on and you don't want to remove them or can't, use 3:1 shrink tubing instead of tradition 2:1. The liquid tape is at lowes, o'reiley's, etc. Takes a while to dry tho.

I haven't started anything yet. Wanted to see if people would respond with "yeah your plan is fine" or "no, do this" or something so I don't screw anything up.


I might try the liquid electrical tape since I could probably get it down into the holes I have to drill for the switch prongs to go through.


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Here is my plan for power to each switch. I have a 30amp relay. Can someone give me a lesson on relays like this one? Should I get one with a higher amperage?








EDIT: sorry the diagram is upside down, don't know why it does that

 

[MtnMan]

Those ebay switches are only good for 0.5A, so you will need to use relays. Also, they're momentary, which is probably not what you want.

 

[Reno911]

Those ebay switches are only good for 0.5A, so you will need to use relays. Also, they're momentary, which is probably not what you want.

What kind of relays would I need then and how would they have to be wired? I'm such a noob.


These came up on past searches for micro on/off switches. Searching for momentary micro switch comes up with similar switches, but they have 4 prongs


50pcs Tact Switch Micro Push Button 2 Pin 3 5mm 6 x 6 x H 5mm New | eBay

 

[7d9_z28]

Your picture LOOKS to me like it shows a circuit breaker, not a relay.


Could be wrong...

 

[Tlauden]

I'm going to have to agree, that's a breaker. A relay would have at least 4 prongs.

 

[Reno911]

See this is how dumb I am with electrical LOL and why I made this thread

 

[Reno911]

Learning a bit about how to use relays and stuff. Gathered up a few relays that were on some CHP stuff I have, need to buy little connectors for the prongs.


The county shops relayed the Vector bars for the Sheriffs department in my area, have a couple of the bars. I have a fuse block like the one they used.


So pretty much, run a 12+wire (switched) to the control head, then run power to each of the switches (if they are on/off, going to buy them and find out since momentary listed switches are different), solder lightbar harness wires to switches(I'll have a quick disconnect connector out of the control head), connect lightbar harness wires to relay switch positions, run a positive wire to the fuse block, run wires off of the fuse points to each of the relays, then run wires from the relays to the lightbar functions.


That sound about right?


Should I have a relay for the passenger spotlight too?


These are the things I want to be able to use the custom control head for:


Lightbar mode1


Lightbar mode2


Lightbar mode3


Takedowns


Alley lights


Traffic Adviser (hit button, puts power to the TA box)


Passenger side spotlight


A map light on the package tray


Wig wags


takedown jog left


takedown jog right