Need some wiring help please

[hookandcan33@gmail.com]

Good evening guys...


The reason I am posting this is I need some help compiling a shopping list and a general idea on how I'm going to run my wires for my warning light set up...The Vehicle I am going to be installing this in is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and the equipment im going to be installing is as follows.


Up front


A 16" Microman lightbar under the RVM B/W/B/B


2 Whelen Blue TIR6's in the grille


Sides


A 8" Microman lightbar for both the driver and passenger side B/B


Rear


2 8" Microman lightbars mounted on the tailgate 1 B/A and 1 B/B


Misc


A Bearcat BCT15 scanner


As far as wiring goes I'm hoping to be able to run the front lights to 1 switch and the rear to another so can someone please give me a idea on what I would need to get power from the battery to the switches and any other tips that may help me out with this project.....Thanks Everyone and Stay Safe

 

[factorone33]

Good evening guys...


The reason I am posting this is I need some help compiling a shopping list and a general idea on how I'm going to run my wires for my warning light set up...The Vehicle I am going to be installing this in is a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and the equipment im going to be installing is as follows.


Up front


A 16" Microman lightbar under the RVM B/W/B/B


2 Whelen Blue TIR6's in the grille


Sides


A 8" Microman lightbar for both the driver and passenger side B/B


Rear


2 8" Microman lightbars mounted on the tailgate 1 B/A and 1 B/B


Misc


A Bearcat BCT15 scanner


As far as wiring goes I'm hoping to be able to run the front lights to 1 switch and the rear to another so can someone please give me a idea on what I would need to get power from the battery to the switches and any other tips that may help me out with this project.....Thanks Everyone and Stay Safe

Best idea I can come up with: Run a main power cable (about a 10 or 12 gauge since you're using primarily LEDs) with an 80-amp breaker in-line up to a terminal block/bus bar somewhere either inside your console, under the dash, or under the hood (but make sure it has a cover if under the hood). From there, you can run individual power to each circuit to your switches (one for front, one for rear, one for the scanner, etc.). This also makes it easy to add circuits later on down the road as necessary, and doesn't require you to run extra power each and every time you add a circuit. Above all, make sure you fuse each circuit at a reasonable level (10 amps is usually more than enough for LEDs in small applications).

 

[hookandcan33@gmail.com]

Thank you for the advice

 

[ryan]

80 amp???? you will be just fine with a 25 amp inline fuse holder mounted 6-10 inches from the battery. none of your install should pull over 15-20 amps when activated and the 5 amps extra is a cushion. you can run a 12 gauge wire from the fuse, into a grommet on the firewall and to a switch. from this same side power your scanner and the other side to your warning lights. keep it simple no need to run to much for what you said you have going on.

 

[hookandcan33@gmail.com]

Thank you Ryan

 

[factorone33]

80 amp???? you will be just fine with a 25 amp inline fuse holder mounted 6-10 inches from the battery. none of your install should pull over 15-20 amps when activated and the 5 amps extra is a cushion. you can run a 12 gauge wire from the fuse, into a grommet on the firewall and to a switch. from this same side power your scanner and the other side to your warning lights. keep it simple no need to run to much for what you said you have going on.

Of course 25 would suffice now, but...in the long run, it's nice to have room for expansion. And the 80-amp breakers aren't that expensive. Should he need a radio in the future, the 25 amp limit will be too small, and he'd have to run new wiring. Plus, there's always extra room for a lightbar, headlight flasher, siren, etc.


I wouldn't do less than 60 amps unless I knew for certain I wasn't going to be adding on later, then I'd just size the disconnect to the load, accordingly.

 

[Chris Simpson]

I hate to bust your bubble but I doubt a 10-12 gauge wire would NOT supply 80 amps... well for very long (probably melt the insulation off and short out)... I think if you were looking at that large of current draw I would say 8 gauge at least...


Now for the above mentioned Install I would run a 10 gauge wire in to the console and install a fuse block, fuse the battery with a 25 amp fuse no more than 6-8 inches away from your connection to the battery. If you want the lights to shut off with the ignition you can add a relay to the main power switched either by a master switch or by a jumper off of an ignition fuse(However this will also shut the scanner off also). the scanner is probably supposed to be fused at 5 amps(that's what most are fused at) then a 15 amp fuse to run all the lights.


If you plan on expanding your setup in the future I would run the larger wire(8 gauge) to your console that way you can add more lights, a siren, ETC and not take as much time to do it because of the extra slots available on the fuse block. If you want to add a radio I would run both power and ground to the battery. it ensures better operation of the radio.


Good luck on it and Hope you can take some pictures along the way and post them on the forum so we can see how your doing...

 

[MESDA6]

Make sure that you can easily get to the fuse to remove or replace it.


You may also want to remove the fuse to disable the lights if you have your vehicle worked on or have to leave it somewhere like a repair shop. No sense losing your privileges when some car jockey decides he wants to play with the lights.


Some people use a hidden switch to disable the lights to prevent unauthorized use, but pulling the fuse is just as effective.

 

[LawMan902]

When I was younger I installed a LOT of car stereo equipment, and I currently still do some stereo install, as well as wiring electronics in race cars in my spare time. I actually use a lot of what I have learned doing that in these applications. For example, you can run a 4 gauge car stereo power wire with an 80a-100a inline fuse or circuit breaker into the vehicle, then use a dist. block to split it into two or three 8ga leads.


Run one straight to your (fused)switch box to power lights etc.


Run another to a fused dist. block using a relay, for items such as radios, sirens, and other lighting controllers etc. that you want to receive power when the ignition switch is on.


The other, you can run to a fused dist. block to power items that need constant power when the ignition switch is off, such as computers etc.


Using this method, I have yet to have any problems with any type of installation, and it gives you PLENTY of room for upgrades down the line. It's also nice that on a POV install, you car disconnect one fuse/breaker and render all equipment inoperable during any type of vehicle maintenance etc., to prevent some nucklehead from playing with your toys...

 

[ryan]

factorone33, here comes a big lesson. Say you have your 80 amp fuse under the hood. powering a 20 amp circuit. If any of the wires short in this situation your going to cause a fire because there is not enough resistance to dead short a 80 amp fuse. lots of heat and melted insulation causes a fire.


You fuse what you use. Would you honestly fuse a stinger flashlight charger at 30 amps when it consumes 4 amps? If you answer yes please dont give advise on installations any longer.


your probably this guy,

 

[hookandcan33@gmail.com]

Thanks guys...all this info is helping alot.....where would be a good place to get all the necessary electrical stuff ill need?