Newbie: Tangled in a heap of wires

silentex

New Member
Jan 23, 2020
5
Texas
I'll be the first to admit it, I believe I've bit off more than I can chew.

I just purchased a new POV and am starting to put lighting equipment in it. The list below is what I've purchased so far.

Havis Chargeguard
Blue Sea 12-Circuit Fuse Block

Feniex Typhoon Handheld w/ Triton Speaker

(2) Strobes n More 180° Crescents
(2) Strobes n More Triple Threat Dash Lights
(1) Strobes n More Dual Threat Dash Lights

My plan, at this time, is to run an 8 gauge power wire from the battery to the Havis Chargeguard that'll be in the interior of the vehicle. The Blue Sea fuse block will then be connected to the Chargeguard. The Feniex Typhoon will be connected to the fuse block and the lights connected to the Typhoon.

My confusion, though, lies with the lights. I'd like one button on the Typhoon to control the front lights and another to control the rear lights. So is it possible to connect to multiple lights to one of the switches on the siren?

In addition, the wiring guide for the crescent light shows:

Black - 12v Ground Wire (self explanatory)
Red - 12v Activation Color 1
Brown - 12v Activation Color 2
Green - 50% Power + 12v
Yellow - Sync/Flash Pattern
White - Alternating Patterns

Color 1 is the primary color, so I assume I'll be connecting it to the front lights button with the remainder of the lights. Color 2 is the white flood, so I'll connect it to its own override button. But what in the hell is green? And I know yellow is sync, but where do y'all usually connect those cables? Closer to the switch box or closer to the lights?

And lastly, I'll be cutting the cigarette lighter adapter off of the dash lights. What can I expect to find?

Thanks in advance and I apologise in advance for being so entirely ignorant.
 

Nolines

Member
Apr 5, 2018
1,678
Margate, FL
Green is like the violet in whelens it's your low power, putting 12 volts to it turns down the power of your lights, it may need switched on or momentary power to enable/disable or turn the lights off to reenable full power mode, your sync flash pattern ( depending on your controller ) is generally a apply 12 volts till you find the pattern you like of both lights and release or tie in together the sync wires but I'm not an expert on your lights so I'll refer to the others who know more about your type of equipment then me.
 

timlinson

New Member
Apr 11, 2011
513
North Dakota
Hi Silent, I don't know know about your specific lights, but here's how I set my typhoon up:

wirediagram.png

Wiring:
- Run your power to the chargeguard, then either to a post or the typhoon.
- Run ground from chargeguard to a post.
- Run your ignition wire from chargeguard to ignition (yellow wire).

In the above diagram, I used a Blue Sea Dual Powerpost for the red and black posts between chargeguard and typhoon. See here for product.

Then I ran a positive from input 1 to block front lights block, and a positive from input 2 to rear lights block. The front lights are connected to the front lights block, and the rear lights block is connected to the rear lights. I used these blocks, but they may be overkill for this purpose. See here for product.

The siren takes 2 16g wires ran from the inputs of the typhoon. Nothing else is necessary.

For the lights, I ran a sync wire back to a block to sync them together (mine are all feniex). These are the green wires above. For you this would be your yellow wires.

For green, if you want low power, I would run it to it's own input and make that a momentary switch. Press once for low power, again for regular power.

Here's what I picture for you, as long as all lights have both sync wires (and are compatible) and you want low power hooked up to them.
newwiringdiagram.png

As for actually installing, I found it super easy to get a 12" x 12" piece of ABS plastic, and attach all these in the set up I wanted. Then, besides the power and ground, you can start your wiring and get it all attached to the board. Once ready to go in the vehicle, screw the mounted plastic square to where you need it to go, and then connect your wires to it.

Hope this helps - I'm not an expert, this is just from my knowledge found here and following EV equipment installers on facebook and instagram. Easy way to grab good idea as they love to post their work.
 
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silentex

New Member
Jan 23, 2020
5
Texas
I've been doing a lot of reading and I had purchased most everything you've used ... I just couldn't illustrate it well. That is PERFECT. Thanks for taking the time to do that for me.

Now I'm trying to figure out where to stick this dang siren speaker ... My car is limited in space.
 

timlinson

New Member
Apr 11, 2011
513
North Dakota
I've been doing a lot of reading and I had purchased most everything you've used ... I just couldn't illustrate it well. That is PERFECT. Thanks for taking the time to do that for me.

Now I'm trying to figure out where to stick this dang siren speaker ... My car is limited in space.
What kind of vehicle?
 

silentex

New Member
Jan 23, 2020
5
Texas
It's a 2019 Jetta SEL. I'd imagine I could find more space if I took off the bumper, but I'm not certain I have the confidence to try that. But, I think there might be some space at the bottom of the bumper if I take off the skid plate.
 

silentex

New Member
Jan 23, 2020
5
Texas
And I've got some extra blocks for the sync wires . . . Is there a distance limit for the cables to be run? If all the cables run to my truck and hit that block, for instance.
 

timlinson

New Member
Apr 11, 2011
513
North Dakota
It's a 2019 Jetta SEL. I'd imagine I could find more space if I took off the bumper, but I'm not certain I have the confidence to try that. But, I think there might be some space at the bottom of the bumper if I take off the skid plate.
I would mount all of this inside the cabin, not the outside.

And I've got some extra blocks for the sync wires . . . Is there a distance limit for the cables to be run? If all the cables run to my truck and hit that block, for instance.
There isn't a distance limit that I know of.
 
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silentex

New Member
Jan 23, 2020
5
Texas
Everything will be inside the cabin, I was referring to the speaker being mounted behind the bumper.

And I appreciate all the help!
 

timlinson

New Member
Apr 11, 2011
513
North Dakota
Everything will be inside the cabin, I was referring to the speaker being mounted behind the bumper.

And I appreciate all the help!
The best place for a speaker is behind the grille, otherwise the generated tone isn't going to go anywhere.
 

Ranger196

New Member
Oct 15, 2020
2
Indiana
Hi Silent, I don't know know about your specific lights, but here's how I set my typhoon up:

View attachment 222105

Wiring:
- Run your power to the chargeguard, then either to a post or the typhoon.
- Run ground from chargeguard to a post.
- Run your ignition wire from chargeguard to ignition (yellow wire).

In the above diagram, I used a Blue Sea Dual Powerpost for the red and black posts between chargeguard and typhoon. See here for product.

Then I ran a positive from input 1 to block front lights block, and a positive from input 2 to rear lights block. The front lights are connected to the front lights block, and the rear lights block is connected to the rear lights. I used these blocks, but they may be overkill for this purpose. See here for product.

The siren takes 2 16g wires ran from the inputs of the typhoon. Nothing else is necessary.

For the lights, I ran a sync wire back to a block to sync them together (mine are all feniex). These are the green wires above. For you this would be your yellow wires.

For green, if you want low power, I would run it to it's own input and make that a momentary switch. Press once for low power, again for regular power.

Here's what I picture for you, as long as all lights have both sync wires (and are compatible) and you want low power hooked up to them.
View attachment 222106

As for actually installing, I found it super easy to get a 12" x 12" piece of ABS plastic, and attach all these in the set up I wanted. Then, besides the power and ground, you can start your wiring and get it all attached to the board. Once ready to go in the vehicle, screw the mounted plastic square to where you need it to go, and then connect your wires to it.

Hope this helps - I'm not an expert, this is just from my knowledge found here and following EV equipment installers on facebook and instagram. Easy way to grab good idea as they love to post their work.
What did you use for the sync block?
 

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