nForce SOS: Is it possible, Is it necessary???

[kparr5]

Good morning all! Here's a list of what I'm using:


1) nForce SOS: Red/White surface mount


2) nForce SOS: Blue/White surface mount


3) 2x - 4 pin relays (not sure on how many amps yet)


4) Whelen Siren/Light switchbox - 295SLSA6


With that in mind, here is how the Whelen Siren/Light switchbox is hooked up now.


Slide Position #1: Rear bar, Rear surface mounts and Taillight flashbacks


Slide Position #2: Mirror mounts, Side lights, Inner light bar and the nForce SOS lights in question.


Slide Position #3: HLF, takedown flash on inner light bar.


Push Button #1: Takedown (Inner light takedown as well as nForce SOS will taken down)


With that in mind, here is what I want to do…


The way I have it wired up now, if the slide is position in position #2 or #3 and I activate push button #1 the takedowns in the inner lightbar and nForce lights will override the flash mode. The problem is when the slide switch is in the off position or position #1 and I activate push button #1, only the inner lightbar takedowns will come on. This is because there is no power to red wire on the nForce lights. I want to make it to where I can just turn the takedown lights on without any other emergency lights on. I want both the nForce and Inner lightbar to takedown with push button #1 when the slide switch is in the off position.


I know what everyone is thinking "just use a jumper wire!". The only problem is when you do that the charge will power all the other lights on that post or the slide position #2 post.


So I have come up with a plan and drew the diagram you see here. My thoughts are the relays will stop the current from back feeding into the switch. You may note the following:


RED: Positive 12V


Black: Ground


Orange: Is acting as the red wire on the nForce lights


Purple: Is acting as the white wire on the nForce lights


Green: Sync wire


Blue: Is acting as red positive 12v wire

 

[MtnMan]

Here's how I would do it with a couple of diodes:

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Diodes would be the easier way to go... A couple 3-Amp diodes should suit your purpose...

 

[bigcat]

Diodes would be the easier way to go... A couple 3-Amp diodes should suit your purpose...

I have this same situation in an upcoming install. I haven't used diodes all that much, are these acceptable diodes for this application?


3-Amp Diodes : Diodes | RadioShack.com

 

[ranair911]

I have this same situation in an upcoming install. I haven't used diodes all that much, are these acceptable diodes for this application?

3-Amp Diodes : Diodes | RadioShack.com

Or you could use these....


Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories


Ran

 

[MtnMan]

I have this same situation in an upcoming install. I haven't used diodes all that much, are these acceptable diodes for this application?

3-Amp Diodes : Diodes | RadioShack.com

Should be fine for one or two LED light heads (usually under 1 A each). But diodes are cheap, so you might as well dedicate one diode per light head to minimize heat dissipation.


Modified version of the diagram I posted above:

 

[Eric1249]

Here's how I would do it with a couple of diodes:

That is how I did it when I had the nForce. It worked for me. That is the only drawback to the nForce is that you have to have the warning lights on first to use the takedowns

 

[ryanm]

That is how I did it when I had the nForce. It worked for me. That is the only drawback to the nForce is that you have to have the warning lights on first to use the takedowns

FedSig does it the same way, unfortunately.

 

[Eric1249]

I had a pair of red/white on my rear plate. Red flashed for warning lights. The white came on with a switch and/or reverse. Having to have the warning lights on first is a poor design