Pathetic Power Supply Problem

Reno911

Member
Sep 15, 2012
389
Southern Oregon
I've wanted a power supply so that I can stop using my dads battery jump box. Looking through a box with some radio stuff in it I found this older (looking) power supply. Had to re-attach the positive terminal, but other than that it seems fine.


I tested it, worked fine with sirens, LED's, flashers, and 5in spot bulbs. The problem is that it can't power rotators or anything big. Says it's 13.8V, enough to power bars (same as the fully charged jump box pretty much). Is something bad inside? Does the 3 Amp on the back mean it only puts out 3 amps? I'm confused... :(


ai1171.photobucket.com_albums_r546_TheCopFoxStop_Light_20Bars_0791bb82915713f25e2ddce7a04b03c8.jpg


ai1171.photobucket.com_albums_r546_TheCopFoxStop_Light_20Bars_d135ffe30ae9f68295fa4a13e335baf1.jpg


ai1171.photobucket.com_albums_r546_TheCopFoxStop_Light_20Bars_bfda25ef9209767e5867397acf588ad6.jpg
 

twodogs603

Member
Sep 7, 2011
1,196
Norfolk,VA
Actually its:


* Continuous Amperage Output 9 Amps


* ICS (Surge) Amperage Output 12 Amps


Still not heavy enough to power a rotator lightbar.
 

Abacus

Member
May 24, 2010
432
Sydney Australia
Swat1911 said:
Not to hijack the thread but what do yall normally use as power supplies? I need something better than an inverter into a cig plug?

Check out the sticky above on 120 volts. Great suggestions and links.
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
10,300
NW Indiana
TritonBoulder47 said:
Yes, its only a 3A power supply...

I imagine you got that from the fuse rating on the back of the power supply. That fuse is actually on the 120v side.
 

jdh

Member
May 21, 2010
1,555
Geneva, FL
shues said:
I imagine you got that from the fuse rating on the back of the power supply. That fuse is actually on the 120v side.

Correct. The 3 amps is what the PS pulls on the 120V side. If you look at the front panel it clearly states 12A
 

Torpedo

Member
May 9, 2012
583
USA Fl
If you add a battery or two to that supply it will charge them and the batteries will support the loads. I am thinking sealed batts such as a couple 12v. motorcycle type or the new gel batteries. Power down p supply when not using, avoid overcharging as this set up is unmetered or regulated. Sealed batteries are safer in a dwelling but still can produce hydrogen gas. Please use care and good judgement. Also by adding a battery it will smooth out the ripple inherent in 120V supplies which distorts/garbles PA/sirens and can confuse digital circuits such as some L E D drivers and lighting controls that use matrix (cat 5) communication links.
 

tvsjr

Member
Oct 7, 2012
611
TX
Actually Astron power supplies (and a few other manufacturers as well) have issues when you attempt to float batteries on their output. There are modifications available - check out Repeater-Builder. In addition, the output voltage will likely need to be adjusted down, unless you enjoy spending money on battery replacement. If your intention is to float-charge batteries, do yourself a favor and buy a supply that is designed to do so. If the batteries will live inside, buy batteries that have a vent with fittings to allow you to vent any products of outgassing to the outside world.


If there is sufficient ripple present on the output to be noticeable, you have a very cheap power supply. The RS-12 seen here is specified as <5mV peak-to-peak under the worst conditions (full load, low line voltage). Adding batteries won't help - you will still see the ripple, since the power supply will almost certainly be at a higher potential than the batteries. I have used any number of power supplies (although I typically buy decent quality stuff) and have never seen an issue where ripple has affected anything I was working on.


I have an Astron RS-50A on the bench for high-current work along with a VLS-20M for variable output voltage up to 30V. I've also got a lab-grade voltage/current controlled HP supply for delicate stuff. I've been reasonably happy with Astron's switch-mode supplies as well, and have used a few Samlex switchers with no ill effects.


To the OP: You have a decent, but small supply. At 12A max output (at "ICS" - 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off) you can run 2 55-watt rotators, one strobe power supply of reasonable size, or damn near a whole LED lightbar (don't turn the halogen takedowns/alleys on). The fuse you're seeing is the input - 115V @ 3A. If you overload the supply, the worst thing that will happen is it will shut down - the output voltage will fall to zero. I wouldn't leave the supply sitting like this for hours, but you won't hurt anything. And, from your post, it looks like you basically pulled this thing out of a junk box, so even if it does blow up, what's the harm? Do yourself one favor... find a good voltmeter and check output voltage at rest and under load - make sure something funky isn't going on. It may be in the junk pile for a reason, and you don't want to toast something expensive. The output voltage should remain a fairly steady 13.xVDC until you get close to the max output of the supply, where it may fall off a bit.


When you start playing with electronics, you will inevitably smoke something sooner or later. I've done it, we all have. Don't do something stupid (shorting batteries/hooking them up backwards, touching exposed AC lines, etc.) but don't be too scared to learn, either.
 

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