Professional Installation Gods, your assistance requested

[FFRNDAN]

I am trying to plan my install for my POV, a 2009 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab. I plan to install as much as possible in the rear storage cubbies under the rear seats. My equipment list includes:


Edge 9000, 8 strobe, piercer, TD, AL, Rear flashers (2x 30A) *This is the multi-trigger wire version*


UPS690 Strobe pack (15A)


SS2000SM (20A Siren, 50A for relays)


(2) LEDs in grille (2x 5A)


I am attempting to come up with a basic plan that will allow for add-ons in the future, and wanted to get your input on my current basic plan. The diagram below shows my idea so far. Let me know what you think. All wire will be sized appropriately for the load applied, using this diagram








The multiple fuse blocks off of the SS2000SM allow for quick/easy changes in the future, as well as isolating individual components. I am not an installer by any means, but I drool over pics of some of the setups I see here. I hate rats nests! Thanks for all the input in advance. Advice on what hardware to use is also appreciated.

 

[twodogs603]

The lightbar and power supply can be wired straight to the battery (fused of course) because they can stay hot all the time. The low current trigger wires are what activates the different functions on the bar and outputs on the power supply. If you do that, then the solenoid relay your have pictured is overkill to just power the SmartSiren. A much smaller relay would work. As far as the extra fuse blocks, they would work, but just dont exceed the amp rating for the outputs on the SmartSiren. The SmartSiren is pretty versitle, and the outputs are programmable so really they should be enough for what you want to do. I dont think you need the extra fuse blocks.


Now, thats how I would do it, but the way you have it laid out in the diagram would work too, but your going to extra expense that you dont need to.

 

[FFRNDAN]

The lightbar and power supply can be wired straight to the battery (fused of course) because they can stay hot all the time. The low current trigger wires are what activates the different functions on the bar and outputs on the power supply. If you do that, then the solenoid relay your have pictured is overkill to just power the SmartSiren. A much smaller relay would work. As far as the extra fuse blocks, they would work, but just dont exceed the amp rating for the outputs on the SmartSiren. The SmartSiren is pretty versitle, and the outputs are programmable so really they should be enough for what you want to do. I dont think you need the extra fuse blocks.

Now, thats how I would do it, but the way you have it laid out in the diagram would work too, but your going to extra expense that you dont need to.

Thanks for the reply, my only issue with wiring my lightbar direct to the battery is parasitic loss. If that isn't that much of an issue, then I will do that. Ill put up an updated diagram later tonight when I get home from work. Does anyone know what the parasitic loss on an EB6 power supply, and a UPS690 strobe pack is? All I have is a volt meter to play with. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[twodogs603]

The current draw while the power supplies are "sleeping" is very very minimal. If you use the vehicle often it wont be a problem. If the vehicle sits for days and days on end it may drain the battery a little, but probably no more then the vehicles electronic components. Ive never had a problem and doubt you will either.


(are you sure you dont have a UPS690 power supply? I dont think there ever was a USP90).

 

[FFRNDAN]

You are right, it is a UPS690, my bad!


Anyway, I did a little more work tonight after work on my plan. I already have a blue seas 12 fuse panel in the truck, so I will use that to my advantage. I also have a FT-7900r Ham radio installed that I will put on the blue seas. Take a look at my new diagram, my only issue is finding a distribution block that I like. All I can find is hokey looking chinese stuff made for car audio installs. Any help on finding one is appreciated. It will need to have 2 30A, and one 50A fused outputs, and maybe one more for the future add-ons.