Proof this wiring diagram for me

Retaks

Member
Aug 5, 2012
105
SE PA
Personally id go larger the 10 gauge. The 10 gauge would prob give enough power but its better to have to large of a wire from the start then to need to upgrade later on. Id prob go with 6 gauge just to be safe and also if you decide to add more later on.
 

foxtrot5

New Member
Sep 26, 2011
3,002
Charleston Area, SC, US
Respondcode3 said:
Id use separate grounds

Agreed. Ground everything as close as possible to where it's mounted while still having a good ground point.
 
May 24, 2010
1,627
PG County, MD
ERT1111 said:
All grounds should go directly to the battery ground. Yes that’s a lot of extra wire but you will eliminate problems that go with grounding to sheet metal.

No they shouldn't at best the nearest factory ground, contrary to popular belief any ground that is home run to the battery needs to be as large as the power from the battery, if he is running 8 ga power he would need to run three 8 ga grounds back to the battery to have good current loop.

ERT1111 said:
Install a relay from your ignition sense wire to supply your siren and radio. Most fuse block taps do not provide sufficient currant to add on power draws.

The radio and the siren box already have an ignition sense circuit built into them, when the power on the ignition lead dies, the equipment turns off.

ERT1111 said:
Yes, fuse the arrow stick. Always use a fuse for everything you add.


Replace your 50 amp fuse with a circuit breaker. This makes it resettable and a way to turn off all your additional equipment if someone other than you will be using the vehicle. Also I would recommend after the 50 breaker that you install a fuse panel and use that to supply power to all of you accessory’s.


Just my 2 cents worth.

Use the closest ground point and the OP will be good to go. The diagram looks good to me, and yes, add the fuse to the stick first chance you get.
 

Jarred J.

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
11,586
Shelbyville, TN
if you thinking running a ground all the way back to the battery is a good idea, then i hope your power wires and ground are the same length. i have found that if you have a longer ground wire than power, things run slower due to resistance and heat up.


I beleive your the first person in the 9 years since ive been on this board to ever sugget that.


radios and other sensitive electronics will usualy advise in their manuals if they need to be ran straight to the battery or not.
 

Outdoor Ed

New Member
Apr 17, 2011
9
BC, Canada
ERT1111 said:
All grounds should go directly to the battery ground. Yes that’s a lot of extra wire but you will eliminate problems that go with grounding to sheet metal.

If you connect any accessory ground wires directly to the negative battery post, you must install fuses on the ground wires. Otherwise in the event your vehicle's main ground to the chassis/engine block fails, the entire vehicle (including the starter!) could try to ground through your radio, siren etc. which could overload and/or burn up the ground wires if not fused. It's not a super common thing to have happen, but I have seen it in some older vehicles and heavy equipment.


For the most part though I rarely connect grounds direct to the battery unless it's a huge current accessory like a winch or large inverter that could overload the factory ground cable. The best chassis/body grounds are typically bare metal that isn't too exposed to weather/dirt/salt. Not every piece of metal in the vehicle is a good ground, some pieces of metal might be rubber mounted or only attached to plastic or painted surfaces, so either test your potential grounding point or try to use factory ground points (generally found behind kickpanels, on the firewall, in the trunk etc.)
 

Respondcode3

Member
May 23, 2010
1,936
Northen Il USA
Outdoor Ed said:
If you connect any accessory ground wires directly to the negative battery post, you must install fuses on the ground wires. Otherwise in the event your vehicle's main ground to the chassis/engine block fails, the entire vehicle (including the starter!) could try to ground through your radio, siren etc. which could overload and/or burn up the ground wires if not fused. It's not a super common thing to have happen, but I have seen it in some older vehicles and heavy equipment.

For the most part though I rarely connect grounds direct to the battery unless it's a huge current accessory like a winch or large inverter that could overload the factory ground cable. The best chassis/body grounds are typically bare metal that isn't too exposed to weather/dirt/salt. Not every piece of metal in the vehicle is a good ground, some pieces of metal might be rubber mounted or only attached to plastic or painted surfaces, so either test your potential grounding point or try to use factory ground points (generally found behind kickpanels, on the firewall, in the trunk etc.)

I have never fused a ground wire.. Even when the installation calls for a battery ground on sensitive equipment like camera systems...Maybe 30-40 years ago it was required
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
54,124
Messages
450,353
Members
19,168
Latest member
woobatu

About Us

  • Since 1997, eLightbars has been the premier venue for all things emergency warning equipment. Discussions, classified listings, pictures, videos, chat, & more! Our staff members strive to keep the forums organized and clutter-free. All of our offerings are free-of-charge with all costs offset by banner advertising. Premium offerings are available to improve your experience.

User Menu

Secure Browsing & Transactions

eLightbars.org uses SSL to secure all traffic between our server and your browsing device. All browsing and transactions within are secured by an SSL Certificate with high-strength encryption.