Re-wiring, need assistance

[emt.micah]

So I was starting to run wire in my Jeep the other day for a new set of Feniex T6s I'm installing in the rear side windows, and I realized i have some wire-clean-up to do.


Here's what I've got going (or I'm about to install) that I need to run wire back to:


-Pair of Feniex T6s (one driver side, one passenger side). These are run to a switch with some other lights in the front of the vehicle.


-Pair of Feniex Dual-color Cannons. One in each reverse light.


-Feniex Cobra 200 in the rear window.


-4x 4 watt LED "rock Lights" installed into the bumper. Basically scene-lights for off roading.


-Undecided yet brand of led work lights. These will mount where the spare tire normally goes.


Everything will have it's own power wire running back from a switched relay under my hood. Only thing being doubled up will be one of the modes on my Cannons will run at the same time as the Cobra 200.


So figuring some beer math:


Pair of T6s=4 amps


Pair of Cannons =4 amps


Cobra 200=4 amps???


LED Rock lights= 1 amp total??


So figuring a run of atleast 15 feet from the relays to the back of the Jeep, 14 ga wire for each light or pair of lights?

 

[MtnMan]

Feniex's specs are 1.2 A per T6 module in steady burn mode (https://www.feniex.com/literature/T6-6LED%20Data%20Sheet%20V1.052789051.pdf), so you only need 18 AWG. Of course, there's nothing wrong with going larger.

 

[fordtruck661]

If all the warning lights are going to the same switch I would not run a wire for each light. Its overkill for LED lights. Run one 14 AWG wire from switch to the back and then hook all your warning lights to that wire. Then run a wire for you spot lights.

 

[justavillain]

If all the warning lights are going to the same switch I would not run a wire for each light. Its overkill for LED lights. Run one 14 AWG wire from switch to the back and then hook all your warning lights to that wire. Then run a wire for you spot lights.

How would you go about splitting or merging the wires? I'm at a cross roads with a similar issue. I'm using 4 t6s and trying to figure out how to make the merger.

 

[wilsonbr90]

Butt crimp connectors and silconed heat shrink. Better yet solder and siliconed heat shrink. You could have an octopus of arms coming off. Always try to think ahead though. Are you ever going to put anymore lights in the rear? Would you maybe prefer seperate control later on down the road. I would put rear lighting on its own leg. Side lighting on another. Even of its all controlled by the same switch, you have options down the line without having to gut and start over. And you would have less draw, although 14g is plenty heavy enough for a few lightheads. Same for the "scene" lighting. Even if they all butt together at the front. At least you have options.

 

[emt.micah]

I was looking at separating the lights on different wires because of how I set up my switches.


When I'm done I'll have 4 switches for warning lights:


1. Rear warning. The rear Feniex 200 and reverse light mounted Cannons(mode 1, red).


2. Wig Wags.


3. Blue lights. Cannons in my fog lights(mode 1, blue), Apollo 2x dash light (mode 1, blue), rear side window T6s.


4. Amber lights. Cannons in my fog lights(mode 2, amber), Apollo 2x dash light (mode 2, amber), reverse light mounted Cannons(mode 2, amber)


The reverse lights and rear work lights are on separate switches also.


So based on that, I see 5 wires coming to the back of my Jeep. Rock lights, reverse lights, rear warning, amber warning and rear side warning lights. And I'd like to pull a 6th back for future expansion. I'd like to use a 6 conductor cable, to reduce the number of individual wires.


Make sense?

 

[SirenWorld.com]

You can run one power wire to the rear and connect to a small fuse block (from Autozone for about $5) and run one mode and save yourself a ton of wire. If not a fuse block, you could just do a terminal block. That would give you flexibility to change the configuration down the road later and all you have to do is undo a couple of screws and move the ring/U terminals around.


Unless you're building a demo car that needs individual switching for different styles of lights, just run 1 wire per NEED.


1 - Front warning, 2 - Side Warning, 3 - Rear Warning, 4 - Rear work/scene, etc... No sense in wasting wire and making more work for yourself.

 

[emt.micah]

My bad. I failed to explain the need for running amber as Mode 2 of some of these lights.


I belong to a 4x4 SAR group that assist with stranded motorists during winter storms (we were REAL busy with this last one) as well as assists with flooding response and traditional SAR roles. Usually we end up working for the Sheriff's Department. When we do that, I can't use my fire department blue lights, but I can use ambers. Thus having amber as a secondary mode.


Also Matt, I'm a Siren World Affiliate. Gotta show off the products.


So back to my original question. If 18ga does the job for the Feniex products, I'll probably go 16ga/6 conductor cable. I do like the junction box idea. Terminate the cable at that and I have the freedom to change things out with out cutting wire all the time.


Micah

 

[emt.micah]

I'm going to order some of this for my project. Should work well.


16/6 SOOW Portable Cord 600V UL/CSA | WireAndCableToGo.com


And like someone suggested, I'm putting a junction bog on the en of that wire, in the back of muyJeep. Amazon.com: (1) 7 Terminal Junction Box Truck Trailer Black Plastic: Automotive

 

[emt.micah]

Got this wired up yesterday. Turned out I had some 14ga/6 conductor in my garage.


Cable comes in and is clamped down. Ring terminals on the end of each wire. There is a nice cover that screws on this and is waterproof.





Mounted on the roll cage for when the soft-top in installed.





And on the inside of the hard-top. Mounted using the 3m hook-on-hook velcro. That shit is bomb-proof.





The other end of this 14/6 cable goes into what's called an sPod. 4x4 SPOD Since 2005 - The ORIGINAL JEEP Over The Windshield Switch Console - Jeep Power Distribution System I use the spod to control all me emergency lights and half my off road lights.

 

[rwo978]

Looks good. Never worked on a Jeep, but there isn't a spot under a seat or the dash for the box? Looks a bit odd out in either spot pictured.

 

[emt.micah]

Ryan,


This box serves all the stuff in the very back end of the Jeep. I could put it under the back seat. But the way the seats fold down it would get crushed. I'm also one of those guys who is never satisfied with their rig and changes stuff all the time, so easy access is key.


Also, in this case the easiest way to get from my relays to the back of the Jeep is to run down from the engine compartment (where my sPod is installed), along the frame and up into the trunk by means of a rubber grommet already in place for the hard top wiring harness.


Micah