Siren Connections Query


New Member
May 23, 2010
Hi All -

I was wondering if you folks had any recommendations on what would be the best connector or connector method for attaching the wires from a Whelen Siren to the external speakers. We have pretty nasty winters here and the salt from the roads, I am concerned, would create a significant corrosion issue. I understand that the local LEO's, EMS and Fire have external speakers and would think that something is applied to the connections or a different type of connector is I wrong in that assumption?

Just looking for some feedback as I am going to be lighting the car over the next week and want to do it right.

Any input is always appreciated....



Lifetime VIP Donor
May 20, 2010
Where are you based out of? I am quite sure there are few places in the world that have more salt dumped on their roads than where I reside. They are a bit too happy to salt around here.. (Central Ontario)

I used to use heavy duty speaker wire (heavy insulated, not thick guage wire) and never had an issue. Connections were soldered and shrink wrapped, with some silicone inside the shrink wrap for good waterproof measures. Currently, I am using a 3 wire cable (strobe cable) that is double shielded, and has 3 layers of insulation covering it. Have not had a single issue since that was installed. Also, use Wire Loom!!!!

For the actual connections, solder/shrink wrap /silicone OR waterproof quick connect/fluid film (I recommend the latter if you like to switch stuff up, or are in a corrosive environment for ease of servicing). And of course, make sure you use a good grommet where the wires are fed through the firewall.

Heck, I recommend fluid film for any exterior connector to make it more waterproof. Also works great as a corrosion preventer. Here is a link, it sells itself. ;)


May 20, 2010
Hartford County, CT
I have a two speaker sa314 setup. Instead of using the wire pigtails that came stock with the speakers, I opened the speakers up and replaced that wiring with strobe cable (using only 2 of the 3 wires). I attached a long enough piece that each cable would make it to a small radioshack project box that I had mounted in the grille. After running the two strobe cables into the box, I only needed to run one strobe cable back to the siren amp (2 wires [one going to each speaker] and a common wire). This made it so that the only exposed connections I had were in the engine compartment, contained in a project box. All I used were butt connectors for the connections, but I sealed the project box up really well. This way makes for a really clean looking install. The wiring is uniform, there are no visible connections, it looks professional and it is pretty inexpensive and easy to do.

Otherwise I'd have to agree with using butt connectors/heat shrink/silicone as a pretty inexpensive/effective way.

I'm in New England, so I know what you mean about the winters. I've had the above setup for over a year with no signs of compromise.


New Member
May 23, 2010
Thanks for both the tips. I am in North Central MI and the salt here get's pretty thick in the wintry weather. I am still new at the install portions of this so what may seem common sense to some is new territory to me. That, and I am paranoid about frying something.

Again, thanks.


Jun 2, 2010
For any connections in areas exposed to weather, use the best butt splices you can. I know I usually go overboard (at $0.66 each), but I use the heat shrink solder connectors:

They're like a normal butt splice, but once you crimp them, hit them with a heat gun and the ends seal with heat shrink (with glue-like sealant inside the tubing) and then there's a bead of solder in the middle that melts and solders the two wires together. In terms of speaker wire, I've used normal speaker cable, but the best would be to use some automotive-grade SXL crosslink wire of the appropriate gauge.

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