Smart Siren Wiring Question

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richmond

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May 25, 2010
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I am installing an Smart Siren Module to replace my current siren and switch box.


The install manual requires a 10-Gauge wire for the lights/Aux power which is to be connected to a 50A breaker.


My amperage load for all the lights is <15A, for which 16-gauge wire and a 15-20A fuse suffice. This is my current configuration for the switch box power, and I have had no problems for years.


I have no interest in rewiring 10 gauge wire and hooking up a breaker.


Is anyone familiar with this issue - can I get away with my current switch box's wiring of the 16 AWG and 15A fuse?
 
Ummm, I wouldn't. That's screaming fire hazard.


Do it the right way. The amp itself draws some power, so you need to take that into consideration.
 
rwo978 said:
Ummm, I wouldn't. That's screaming fire hazard.
Do it the right way. The amp itself draws some power, so you need to take that into consideration.
Click to expand...
+ 1. Don't under-size wires, regardless what the amperage your lights will draw. As stated, the AMP (brain) needs the amperage. Remember, its also running the siren amp along with everything else..

richmond said:
The amp power is drawn from the siren power wire, which is independent of the lights/AUX power.
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Why even ask if all you are going to do is disagree with the advice given (and manufacturer) instructions provided?
 
I have run a 14 ga wire since I have very low amp draw on the relays and never had a problem. The power for the siren comes from the white plugged harness, not that main power wire.
 
MPD 818 said:
The power for the siren comes from the white plugged harness, not that main power wire.
Click to expand...

I think you mean that supplies the speakers? All of the power supplying the brain and the accessories comes off that main power feed.


Page 6 HERE shows the pinouts of the harness
 
The manual is a little odd. It appears the siren functions MIGHT come from the 20 AMP red in the harness, as opposed to the 50 AMP. I'm basing that on the following line regarding the 50 AMP wire:


"Since this wire provides the power source for all switched lighting functions, a good mechanical and electrical connection here is important."


Doesn't mention any siren function on that wire. But again, the manual seems a bit vague and confusing. I was under the impression all light and siren power comes from the single wire as well...
 
fp13-2 said:
I was under the impression all light and siren power comes from the single wire as well...
Click to expand...

As was I, and that the small red wire just turned the system on.
 
Run the 10 guage. Follow the manufacturer's instruction, please, even if you are under-loading the relays (most LED set-ups do). Do, however down-size the relay output fuses (few installers do this, so they end up with inadequate circuit protection). IMO, a 16g wire is not sufficient for long-term, steady 15A draw, especially as wiring systems age and gain resistance over time. Even if your device load is nominally 15A, please consider that resistance is added with each connection, splice, relay, fuse, etc. Resistance increases the amperage the device pulls, as does decreased output from your vehicle's electrical system over time or in severe duty use.


The 10/8g battery power feed is for the relay outputs. The red wire on the 12-pin connector/wire harness is the siren amp and brain power. This should be clear from the way the circuits are protected...20A inline fuse on the siren amp/brain power wire, and user-installed circuit breakers on the relay feed wire. I feel you can exchange a maxi-fuse for the breakers. If not, at least change to manual-reset breaker, IMO, although the provided ones seem to do the job. Remember to put the breaker or fuse for the relay feed within one foot of the power source (battery).
 
RobK said:
I think you mean that supplies the speakers? All of the power supplying the brain and the accessories comes off that main power feed.


Page 6 HERE shows the pinouts of the harness
Click to expand...

1)The Smart Siren and the PA300 use the same power plug, the red wire coming out of that plug is rated at 20 amps, the same amperage the siren would need.


2)You can hook power up to the "siren harness" and not hook up the main power wire and power the system up. You will not be able to activate the relays since they have no power going to them, but it will turn the system on and operate the siren.


The main power wire supplies power to the aux relays and outputs only.


Page 9 here: http://www.fedsig.com/products/docs/install/255336E.pdf


and page 1 here :http://www.fedsig.com/products/docs/install/2561549.pdf
 
I have a #8 wire feeding this u it at the moment and without ordering Parts offline I was curious were it calls for 50a to power the unit I'm just going to try it with a 30a seeing the fuse block will only hold up to 30amp. Has anyone tried this before? Worst case is the fuse will pop and then I will just order the 50a fuse/block to install into my system
 
Keep in mind the Smart Siren was introduced back in 1992 when lightbars were all halogen rotators which easily drew 30 amps themselves before adding alley lights and takedowns, flashing headlights, grill lights,deck lights, and flashing taillights to the equation.
 
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CHIEFOPS said:
Keep in mind the Smart Siren was introduced back in 1992 when lightbars were all halogen rotators which easily drew 30 amps themselves before adding alley lights and takedowns, flashing headlights, grill lights,deck lights, and flashing taillights to the equation.
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Reminds me of the C3 Mastercom having an 8ga wire just for the slide switch alone.
 
Does anyone know where I can buy parts for the SS2000sm? Searching the web is not working. I need mounting brackets for the smart siren I purchased off Tunn. So far seems like a great item but still wiring it. Also can any TD/WL work on this or do they only let you use their lightbar?
 
Just noticed I assume the smart siren usually comes with a plug in connector for the TD/WL I did not get that with so I will have to purchase that also
 
You can get them from federal. Let me know how many pins there are on the connectors you need. I am headed into the station, pretty sure I have some, just not sure which ones.
 
I need the 11pin connecter into the back of the siren for the "signal master" other parts I need to order are the mounting bracket for the head unit and amp for ss2000sm
 
Tlafntn said:
http://www.911ep.com/PDF/TDWL%20Series%20Instructions.pdf
Click to expand...
According to this PDF that you posted the link to, the SM function will not operate this bar. This bar is positive switched with an internal flasher for patterns. The only way you could hook this bar up to the SM is to rewire the bar with a common positive and individual grounds to each lighthead. At least, that is what I am gathering from the PDF install sheet.
 
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Damnit looks like I may be selling this for the bar that will work haha. First I will make sure the siren works correctly
 
Tlafntn said:
I need the 11pin connecter into the back of the siren for the "signal master" other parts I need to order are the mounting bracket for the head unit and amp for ss2000sm
Click to expand...

I have the standard U bracket for the brain... $10, plus $6.12 for shipping.
 
Here is an idea. I'm thinking because I don't have many aux to control other then my hideaways. I could connect the three pattern switches to a left,right,warning on three different aux relays?
 
I may need that bracket. Will let you know thanks. The amp I can make something to hold it mostly was looking for the pin connector and the keypad bracket
 
The TD/WL36 is not compatable with the SM feature on the SmartSiren. I've got the non-SM model SS2000 in my chevy and have a TD/WL36 wired to position 1 on the slide switch and 3 aux buttons. (one for each direction and one for pattern change)
 
So it is doable? I just won't use the signal master. Run the warning off switch one and directionals off 3aux?
 
Tlafntn said:
So it is doable? I just won't use the signal master. Run the warning off switch one and directionals off 3aux?
Click to expand...

Yes. The way I have mine wired is:


Green wire to relay 1 on slide switch.


Yellow wire to AUX1 for left arrow


Orange wire to AUX2 for pattern selection (with AUX2 set as momentary)


Blue wire to AUX3 for right arrow


Red hooked to a 10 amp fused supply.


And black grounded (of course).


As for patterns, I've got the green wire set to pattern 17 (wig wag of end segments) and the other two as the directional arrows with both being center out, all partial so the ends still wig wag. My bar is also R/A/R in color so the red wig wags while the amber does traffic stuff.
 
Thanks! That was very helpful. I did notice I am missing the AUX plug also so need to order that before I can finish.
 
Tlafntn said:
Thanks! That was very helpful. I did notice I am missing the AUX plug also so need to order that before I can finish.
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No problem. I'm glad someone else is using the same setup as me. I love it, I just wish the SS had more buttons!
 
911 sending u a pm. Fox I will send pics and vids once my install is complete. How did you mount the bar? I ended up buying some L stock form Lowes and made a rack for the TD/WL and the other lights.
 
Mine is just mounted to the roof with pretty short, self tapping screws. As close to the back window as possible. I can get a photo later on today if you'd like.
 
As requested. I set the bar to steady burn on all heads to make it easier to see. Please ignore the partial tree in the bed of my truck...


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Ahh nice! I like how you have room behind your rear seats. On my f150 there is no room behind the head rest so had to be a little creative. Will be posting soon once my install is complete. Just have to finish wiring the lights to the smart siren and for my AUX plug to come in the mail to wire the TD/WL as you did and my hideaway strobes( which I'm told I cannot use in the state of NY since they don't allow clear strobe tubes in headlights and no flashing in tail lights. But still wiring them in to complete the job
 
Tlafntn said:
Ahh nice! I like how you have room behind your rear seats. On my f150 there is no room behind the head rest so had to be a little creative. Will be posting soon once my install is complete. Just have to finish wiring the lights to the smart siren and for my AUX plug to come in the mail to wire the TD/WL as you did and my hideaway strobes( which I'm told I cannot use in the state of NY since they don't allow clear strobe tubes in headlights and no flashing in tail lights. But still wiring them in to complete the job
Click to expand...

I've got room behind the seats because I'm short! :bonk:
 
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