Solder

[GranPrix]

http://www.ehow.com/video_4467439_insta ... relay.html


In the video at 15 sec he uses a soder that looks like he crimps on then heats up. Anyone know where I can get this?

 

[unlisted]

What he crimps on is a exposed butt end connector. He than heats up the centre of the butt end connector and touches the solder to the connector- thus sucking up solder into the connector.


Than shrink wrap, than electrical tape.

 

[NPS Ranger]

soder that looks like he crimps on then heats up. Anyone know where I can get this?

Unlisted is correct. However, what you described also exists, it's called match solder:


http://www.bonanzle.com/booths/k4_pacif ... Inches_415


Don't bother.

 

[UndercoverVLS]

I used to do it like that as well until i realized it takes a crapload of time when you are doing a full install. How do you guys make your connections?

 

[Bigredinstalls]

I used to do it like that as well until i realized it takes a crapload of time when you are doing a full install. How do you guys make your connections?

Currently, I'm just using crimp connections. I'm looking into switching solder connections due strictly to the reliability and quality connections. (and It's incredibly annoying when the crimps fall off.) Does anyone else ever have issues with crimps?

 

[TritonBoulder47]

I'm horrible at soldering... I usually use the crimp connectors with the heatsrhink collars...

 

[Pimp]

Soder?


[Broken External Image]:http://newtech.aurum3.com/images/coke.jpg

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Soder?

[Broken External Image]:http://newtech.aurum3.com/images/coke.jpg

I was thinking something to that effect when I first read it also... LOL

 

[Jarred J.]

sod er = someone who sods.


along the lines of the person who works at a sod farm.


Solder = a flux type material for connecting electrical circuits





ohh and thread revival. first posted in JUNE

 

[Steve0625]

I used to do it like that as well until i realized it takes a crapload of time when you are doing a full install. How do you guys make your connections?

Living in upstate NY where they use lots of salt to control ice on the roads, I crimp, solder, and heatshrink the individual connections. Then anything that is outside the cab where there is even the remotest possiblity of road salt or moisture can reach the connections, everything gets coated with dielectric grease. I pay special attention to screw lug connections, blade connections, etc. Even the connections in the travel trailer plug are full of dielectric grease. When possible, almost everything is sheilded from moisture and salt with plastic work boxes. I have a couple of terminal strips under the hood of the truck, and they are inside plastic "project boxes". The wires entering the box are a tight fit through rubber grommets. They are pretty much resistant to almost anything up to total immersion.


I used to lose the 7 pin travel trailer connector on my old truck every other year due to salt and corrosion. Since I started using the grease, I have not replaced the connector since I bought the new truck three years ago. Any install I have done using the grease looks new and fresh when it is opened up for inspection.


I usually try to do two layers of heat shrink with the top layer being longer on the wire than the bottom one.

 

[Bigredinstalls]

What kind of crimping tools are yall using. I'm looking into getting a ratchetting crimper or possibly a "hydraulic" one. Any oppinions and experiences are welcome and appreciated.

 

[TritonBoulder47]

I use just a basic hand-held wire crimper... Plus I have a ratcheting one for antenna coax... The hydraulic crimpers are usually for large guage sized like 2 ga. and larger...

 

[Bigredinstalls]

I use just a basic hand-held wire crimper... Plus I have a ratcheting one for antenna coax... The hydraulic crimpers are usually for large guage sized like 2 ga. and larger...

Who makes a good ratcheting crimper?

 

[tigers2007]

That guy in the video does it the right way -- Crimp, Solder, Seal (Heatshrink). ALWAYS do that for ALL automotive wiring - inside or outside. Those little butt connectors are cheap if you buy them in bulk. Check out Waytek, Del City, or Mouser for pricing. Its not that expensive. If you front the $30-50 up front cost, you'll have a lifetime supply of connectors and will always have them ready. I'm doing installs off of stuff I bought seven years ago. Buy the good double-wall heatshrink too. I hate it when I see folks doing the classic "Western Union Twist", then slap some Harbor Freight brand electrical tape and call it a day. Then they complain that their crap doesn't work all the time or that they see sparks. Corrosion is your enemy inside or outside for wiring.

 

[EVModules]

What works the best for me is the Klein 1006 crimper. It's a non-insulating crimper that I use for insulated crimps. They make very solid crimps because of the narrow head and the "U" shaped crimping pattern which makes less effort to crimp than to use any other types. I've had numerous, and I mean NUMEROUS challenges by other installers who think their ratcheting and other types of crimpers make better, secure crimps to no avail. I always bet on lunch and to this day, never have lost. To do a challenge, a butt connector is used and we crimp our side to a wire which gets pulled apart until it gives. It's a lost art of crimping connectors by feel and I "know" when I've reached optimum pressure.


3M terminals are used for interior and dry locations. Solder and adhesive lined heat shrink gets used in wet environments if I can't avoid splices. I always use drip loops with the connections on top of the loop. Quick disconnect terminals are carefully located into dryer areas and dielectric grease is always used.

 

[Bigredinstalls]

Whats yalls oppinions about those little blue clips you can use to connect wires?

 

[EVModules]

They make excellent projectiles on installers who bring them to the shop. Flies better when they are closed up.

 

[code4services.com]

What works the best for me is the Klein 1006 crimper. It's a non-insulating crimper that I use for insulated crimps. They make very solid crimps because of the narrow head and the "U" shaped crimping pattern which makes less effort to crimp than to use any other types. I've had numerous, and I mean NUMEROUS challenges by other installers who think their ratcheting and other types of crimpers make better, secure crimps to no avail. I always bet on lunch and to this day, never have lost. To do a challenge, a butt connector is used and we crimp our side to a wire which gets pulled apart until it gives. It's a lost art of crimping connectors by feel and I "know" when I've reached optimum pressure.

3M terminals are used for interior and dry locations. Solder and adhesive lined heat shrink gets used in wet environments if I can't avoid splices. I always use drip loops with the connections on top of the loop. Quick disconnect terminals are carefully located into dryer areas and dielectric grease is always used.

This is EXACTLY my method as well. Never had one issue.


Sean is right it is all about "feel" when using this crimper, after a few thousand connections you'll have it. Every crimp I perform gets a good tug or quality check.


I only use high quality nylon connectors w/insulation crimp as well for push-on, ring, spade connectors.


Anything exposed to the elements gets a heat shrink connector if less than 8 awg. Larger than 8 awg. gets an uninsulated connector, solder, and dual wall heat shrink.


Quality parts used correctly will last. I can't count how many wires I have accidentally pulled out of shitty connectors used by "many".

 

[code4services.com]

Whats yalls oppinions about those little blue clips you can use to connect wires?

JJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Never used one and never will.