Solinoid

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
I know i need a continuous solenoid but then what? i have searched and came up with nothing.


I want to hook my radio, siren, and switch for my red lights to a solenoid activated by the ignition so when i turn my key off everything is off.


thanks


adding i have a code 3 v con/ galls brand siren. also i have an icom mobile radio in the truck.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

NPS Ranger

Member
May 21, 2010
1,989
Penn's Woods
A continuous duty solenoid is for a mechanical siren, like a Q or 28. You have an electronic siren. All you need is a relay of the correct amperage to handle your load, or better yet separate relays for the lights, siren and radio which are all energized by the ignition. Many mobile radios have a + sense terminal that will turn the radio on/off with the ignition, plus allowing you to turn it on manually with the ignition off. In that case you don't need a relay, just wire the radio through its own fuse or CB.
 

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
what would i be looking for then for a relay? i dont really know the right way to do it or what i would be looking at in the store.
 

EVModules

Member
May 16, 2010
864
Deer Park, WA
If you wish to disconnect anything under 60a, you can use a 75a tyco relay. If over 60, use a Cole Hersee #24143 solenoid with a 3a diode across the coil terminals, band side towards the positive post.
 

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
guys i really appreciate the help could you maybe explain this a bit clearer for a new guy. I no i can do this and i am not a complete idiot but when it comes to relays i dont get it. the reason i was thinking about using a solenoid is i would be able to use just one to run everything with the key on. i think. any help is greatful and if you could explain it a little bit better i would be greatful.


like how many amps do i have?
 

NPS Ranger

Member
May 21, 2010
1,989
Penn's Woods
Do the math. How many watts is your siren? How many watts is your radio? What kind/how many watts/amps do your lights draw? We have no way of knowing this, you have to determine it to know how much load must be switched.
 

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
200 watts is the siren the radio i think he said 30 watt or it was a30 watt fuse i needed to put inline. the lights are whelen tir3's and code 3 supervisor then i have a 150 watt strobe box. ok i am getting this a little bit now. but if i use 3 seperate relays how do hack into one ignition wire? the wire isnt that big. unless you guys know of a better spot to tap into the ignition. and also that is a lot of watts. so do i need the solenoid now?


thanks for being patient i really appreciate it!
 
Nov 21, 2010
440
Pelican Rapids, MN
In order to know (not no) how many amps your equipment will require we will need to know EVERY piece of equipment. From what I interpreted from your post the following relay should suffice.


http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/75552/POWER%20RELAY%2012V%20SPST%2075%20AMP/


This relay has four terminals 30, 87, 86, 85.


30-circuit protected +12 volt battery connection


87-output to fuse panel or equivalent to power your equipment


86-circuit protected connection to an ignition circuit


85-ground
 
Last edited by a moderator:

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
sorry i didn't realize that grammer was so important. but thanks anyway.


how many amps yours equipment will require we will need to know EVERY piece of equipment. From what I interpreted from your post the following relay should suffice.


looks like you could use a little help yourself.
 

NPS Ranger

Member
May 21, 2010
1,989
Penn's Woods
A good way for a newbie to get ahead on this forum is to ask for help, and then bash the guy who tries to help them. Not.


By the way wiseass it's spelled grammar. :roll:
 

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
i belong to a lot of forums and have never seen jack offs like you guys complain about somebody because of grammar. Apparently you people have nothing better to do than pick people apart. Simply looking for help with an install not my grammar. Its funny Jared changed his post because maybe he realized it was a little over the top. One thing i learned as a business owner is never have your company name associated with your rude and ignorant comments.
 

fireman13

Member
Dec 21, 2010
61
ny
code4services.com said:
:D :DFixed!!!

NPS is right, I'm done with this one.


Best of luck.

I am still trying to figure this out. I get bashed for improper grammar by someone who used improper grammar while bashing me and I pointed it out and I am the bad guy! LMAO
 
Nov 21, 2010
440
Pelican Rapids, MN
fireman13 said:
I am still trying to figure this out. I get bashed for improper grammar by someone who used improper grammar while bashing me and I pointed it out and I am the bad guy! LMAO

I apologize for going a little over the top initially, but come on using "no" instead of "know"? If English is your second language I'll give it to you, otherwise wouldn't you expect to get better "free" help by appearing intelligent enough to complete the work in question? Forget the question marks, these are rhetorical, I am done with this thread. I also make my fair share of errors, but I do try and be somewhat proper.
 

Jarred J.

Lifetime VIP Donor
May 21, 2010
11,584
Shelbyville, TN
nut uh? i thot itn was yur 1st langweg byin the ways you tipe
 

EVModules

Member
May 16, 2010
864
Deer Park, WA
C'mon folks. You sound like you're all setting off firecracker rejects and shooting cap guns. Can we agree to chalk this up to something akin to a bad hair, stepped in dog dung, out of milk day? I'm sure everyone's intent were honorable.


Back to the OP, you'd need to look closely at your equipment and identify only the circuits that have a draw (drain) to them. Many equipment have power & ignition points. A good examples are some lightbars. A main power is supplied to the lightbar but draws no power at all until it's turn on from the control cables. You don't want to trouble with cutting off the lightbar power. Many installs these days only requires approx 15 amps of cut-offs and are typically done with ignition delay timers.
 

WS224

Member
Nov 28, 2010
1,049
West Tennessee
John Hearne said:
You need to do something like this:
athecurmudgeon.freeservers.com_veh_01855_console_wiring.jpg


The relay feeds everything in the console. Kill the console and kill everything.


It ends up looking like this:


athecurmudgeon.freeservers.com_veh_551_console_inside.jpg

Or you could just always pull your power from something already tied into an ignition circuit. Then it will look and cost NOTHING like that.
 

John Hearne

Member
May 27, 2010
346
Pontotoc County, MS
WS224 said:
Or you could just always pull your power from something already tied into an ignition circuit. Then it will look and cost NOTHING like that.

The problem is that few ignition controlled circuits provide enough amps to power everything. An option would be to have the relay/solenoid controlled by the ignition.
 

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