dmathieu
Lifetime VIP Donor
ERIC6913 said:here some of mine:
[Broken External Image]:http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww341/eric6913/119.jpg
I have a red/green model 14 not pictured as well.
Crownfire said:A while back there was a seller on ebay that would take two domes, cut them in half, and create a split dome. Haven't seen the listing for this service recently; does anyone on here have any experience with this and know this person or if the service still available?
I have a blue beacon ray dome that is cracked, and a red beacon ray dome with a flat spot that I would love to have someone make one good one out of. These are both the early, smaller version of the BR dome.
Thanks,
Don
dmathieu said:On my Whelen ROTA-BEAM Clear Ray Flasher CR-M
toon80 said:Are those custom or factory filters? I like them and would like some myself
Mars Light said:Here is my Mod.14 amber/red split dome. Finished last weekend.
Skip Goulet said:These remind me of the split-dome 184s I saw on a Caddy ambulance in SoCal a few years ago. They were red to the front and amber to the rear.
Tristar said:I think I remember seeing (here, maybe?) what you're talking about, but it wasn't a standard 184 - it was for CA...it didn't rotate - the lamps were fixed, and the front / red lamp was steady burn, and the rear / amber flashed.
tsquale said:Might as well add mine to the thread:
Code 3 Dashlaser:
View attachment 72390
Federal Fireball II, well its a clear dome with red 1/2:
View attachment 72391
Sho Me Stealth:
View attachment 72392
While it can be hard to tell a factory from a Whelen split dome on older models, this particular one doesn't look right for other reasons. I agree though that factory split domes tend to have damage present or otherwise not age well, especially in older items.This was a factory option. In New England, the blue was typically forward facing, and red to the rear.
Hard to say if this one is factory or not. the glue joints were usually not great.
The red may just be faded???
Just overall signs of modification. The split is less dubious than the coloring.What reasons would that be, John?
Up close and under light, there's runoff onto the blue side and both sides have an opaque look.
Basically many little quaily factors make this light almost certianly modified. Whether the dome started life as a factory split, that could go wither way. Could have been a split blue/clear or blue (faded red) that someone applied paint to. It's been altered, heavily, possibly catastrophically.Yeah, on the Whelen made splits, they definitely used red and blue plastic domes to make red and blue split. They did not color clear Rseponder domes.
You can split these yourself, they don't need gluing, they snap in fine in two pieces. Measure off slightly more than half, draw a line, tape it off with 5 layers of painters tape on the good side. Use a super fine hacksaw or jewelers saw. Take your time, it's an hour per insert. Sand edges with super fine sandpaper, remove tape, clan and polish. You end up with one split insert and two 47% throw aways.Does anyone have the tooling & experience to "split dome" a Federal Vector dome or insert? I have a Vector build that has a front "wobble" light, that I would like to encase with a split red/blue dome or insert.
Cheers and thanks
-I just acquired a Beacon ray with a red amber split. Its in great shape however the two sides have come apart. what is the best method and adhesive to glue them back together?
Does it leave a white residue when dry like other adhesives?-
Loctite has a new adhesive designed for plastic and it works very well. Available in hardware stores, it's a 2-step process with a clear primer that goes on like a magic marker followed by a super glue. Clean and very easy to use without making a mess. I used it to repair my OtterBox phone clip and it held up to constant use, so a split dome for display (or regular duty) should be a piece of cake!
-Does it leave a white residue when dry like other adhesives?