suggestions on low profile switching

grfd711

grfd711

Member
Jun 23, 2010
1,546
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Sherwood, AR
Now the truck is sold, I'm looking to the next install. I'm wanting things very low profile, even switching inside the vehicle. I remember a while back that one of my Captains did an install of his Jeep Liberty and had two very small toggle switches. They weren't even a 1/4" tall if that gives an idea of size.


I'm looking for at least one switch that will be a three position switch to use for a Unitrol 80k, as all I need is wail and yelp. After that, I may do all lighting on one switch, I might do two switches for front lighting and then rear lighting and slim possibility I might have a third switch so I can have any white lighting (probably just a HLF) on it, so it can be turned off if I go to a scene (doesn't happen too often, hence why I may not mess with it).


Pics and/or links to what you have in mind would be a great help.
 
Look here...


http://www.wcls.us


Go to "Police Units" and "Irwindale P.D.". Third picture shows a rotary knob on the center console. This was one of many custom controllers I've done that incorporates 3 position lighting, sirens both in wail, yelp along with horn ring transfer as well as park kill option. The middle is the status indicator lamp, the right is the simple air horn button. All this connects to a remote relay box for the lights to be connected to and to the 80K.


Is this what you're looking for?
 
That's more advanced than what I was thinking, but it looks like a really nice idea. Knob may be a little big for my liking to put into a dash, but nothing herrendous like a massive three position toggle switch you'd see in Bucky Jo's local race car.


I'm thinking what I'm more interested in would almost qualify for micro switching, but actual switches, not push buttons.
 
The knob's on a 1/4" shaft. You can pick a smaller knob. There are 1/8" shafted rotary switches, just not robust enough to withstand the rigors of the intended environment. Theoretically, you could make a mini-toggle switch perform like a 3-position toggle switch (on 1-, on-2, on-3) but you'd need a separate switch to power that switch. Like Switch 1 powers Switch 2 (lights) and Switch 3 (siren)


Switch 2 = Progressive lights 1-2-3 (no off position) or off, #1, #2


Switch 3 = off, wail, yelp
 
By low profile are you looking for so that people could not see it from outside the vehicle if they glanced in, or are you looking for hidden and out of the way so that even a repair tech would not notice them at first glance when sitting in the car?
 
I've used mini/micro toggle switches from RadioShack for similar projects. Just need to make sure they're not in an area that's likely to be kicked or hit. They're not the sturdiest things in the world.
 
If you want ZERO visibility, use a hidden toggle switch that's out of sight to transfer HVAC blower controls to siren/lighting control.
 
Not necessarily zero visibility, just low profile enough that if folks did notice the switches, it would almost look factory. I've got to get the vehicle first to see if it has empty spots for factory switches to be added. If so, that would be another possibility.


In other words, and as mentioned before, I don't want the cheap Auto Zone chrome toggle switch sticking out and looking gawdy.
 
EVModules said:
If you want ZERO visibility, use a hidden toggle switch that's out of sight to transfer HVAC blower controls to siren/lighting control.
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty sick Sean!! Do you have any pictures of an install done like that??


Seth
 
Do you have an overhead console with a glasses compartment? That can usually hold a few small switches and is easy to reach. Nothing lower profile than being completely hidden, right? What vehicle are you getting?
 
could always depending on vehicle and if you actually use your center console install everything inside the center console,everything is within reach with just flipping the lid open and out of the way. noone will know anything is mounted in the car unless the lid is open. has worked for several people i know that installed that way and have used multi switch setup up to 8 switches everything from a jeep compass to a dodge ram and a f150 including a toyota corolla,possibilities are endless
 
EVModules said:
If you want ZERO visibility, use a hidden toggle switch that's out of sight to transfer HVAC blower controls to siren/lighting control.
Click to expand...

I like that!!! I have an Expedition with a rear factory air control in the overhead...exactly where I would want a Unitrol if I had a choice...how does this sort of thing work?
 
Install is going to be in a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4.


I took a look at that Jeep Liberty my batt. chief did the install in. The switches aren't as small as I thought when I saw them around five years ago. They're the stock switches from a Code 3 siren, I believe a 3920.


But, the key to his install was the fact they were black, small enough AND installed INTO the trim of the vehicle, so they looked factory. I guess I'm just gonna shop around different places (probably in person and online) for some compact switches and do the same.


TCO, thanks for the thoughts of concealing stuff in the center console, but for what lights I'll have, my Unitrol TMD is just gonna be overkill, hence why I'm getting rid of it and simplifying. Also, that center console makes a great place to store my pistol.


Thanks for the input, fellas. BTW Sean, the HVAC blower idea is freakin' sweet!
 
If it's a XJ body Cherokee (not a WJ / Grand Cherokee) and you don't smoke... the ash tray between the cup holders and the shifter is a nice spot. Not much room, but you can fit a 2 or 3 small switches in it and it has a cover. Another thought is find the police/European switch panel, it has 4 spots for switches instead of the 3 most Cherokees have. If you don't have fog lights (most Sport models don't), that'll give you 2 spots. The stock fog light switches are only On/Off, but get them from the junkyard and you'll have 2 OEM switches there that nobody would notice.
 
The ride I'll be getting will look like this one.


I'd explore the factory switching. I could have enough options with three switches. I could do front warning on one switch, rear warning on the next switch and then the HLF on the third switch. Only thing I'd have to do elsewhere would be the three position for the siren, so not a bad trade off IMO. Thanks!
 
Ok, that's a "XJ" body Cherokee, I have a 2001 myself. The switch panel I'm talking about has room for 3 switches for non-police models but will have one occupied by any of these switches if it came with those models... Rear wiper, Fog lights, Rear Defrost. So the 4 switch panel might only give you free switch if you have all three options. But, the factory fogs don't actually do any good in the fog, so it wouldn't really hurt to unplug the wiring from the switch to use for another purpose.


I can't think of any place to hide switches that would be easy to access besides the storage tray under the arm rest or the ash tray. You could try drilling into the knee-blocker above the gas pedal, but you might hit them with your leg. The ash tray might be your best chance, maybe you could fit in 2 small rotary or toggle switches to give you the options you want. At any rate, post back up when you figure it out.
 
well if you have 2 switches and want to activate 3 functions, you can make it so that the HLF comes on automatically when both switches are on, not not when only one is
 
I'll have to find out if he has rear wiper and if he's got rear wash with it, aside from rear defrost. If so, I may be taxed out on those switches.
 
It's a matter of using relays or switched to disconnect the analog HVAC circuitry from the vehicle an apply it to siren/lighting controls.
 
whatevah said:
Ok, that's a "XJ" body Cherokee, I have a 2001 myself. The switch panel I'm talking about has room for 3 switches for non-police models but will have one occupied by any of these switches if it came with those models... Rear wiper, Fog lights, Rear Defrost. So the 4 switch panel might only give you free switch if you have all three options. But, the factory fogs don't actually do any good in the fog, so it wouldn't really hurt to unplug the wiring from the switch to use for another purpose.

I can't think of any place to hide switches that would be easy to access besides the storage tray under the arm rest or the ash tray. You could try drilling into the knee-blocker above the gas pedal, but you might hit them with your leg. The ash tray might be your best chance, maybe you could fit in 2 small rotary or toggle switches to give you the options you want. At any rate, post back up when you figure it out.
Click to expand...

I've got one empty slot, as the Cherokee does NOT have the factory fog lights. So long as I can pop out the panel, I may see about trying to find a switch to put in that spot. To make it blend in, I'd like to find who Jeep had manufacture the switches for them. If not, I may have to use that filler panel as a place to mount the switch.


I don't even know how I'd search for the European police switch panel, but I'll give it a shot. My question is does it sacrifice the cigar plug?
 
No, it just reduces the space between the switches and sides. Here's an example picture (not mine)


http://i511.photobucket.com/albums/s359 ... 1258075452 the extended idle is a function that raises the engine RPMs in park to around 1000rpm to help the alternator with heavier power loads from lights and whatever else. Ask the dealer if they can find 4897505AG, that should be the correct part number for the 4-opening pznel. I've heard that the prices have gone up drastically in the past few years, so it may be cheaper to find online.


I have seen aftermarket switches designed like the factory ones, I'll search for the site tonight at work.


To remove the trim bezel around the switches and radio, shift into neutral or even back to 1-2 and grab the bezel at the bottom and pull back. It's held in by clips only, no screws. I've pulled mine off probably 20 times for various reasons. I usually don't even need to shift out of park.
 
I found an empty four slot panel on fleabay for close to $90. After doing a bit of googling, other forums talked about how expensive it would be, so I'm not surprised. Now it's just the fact of if I wanna spend that much money for the panel and then find another switch to put in it. I'll at least have two empty slots to use if I do, so I could do one with a two position switch (like the rear wiper since it's two position) for front and then rear warning and have the last switch be the HLF.
 
Ok, finally found the switch. http://cp31.heritagewebdesign.com/~gold ... ucts_id=38 That picture is from a Wrangler dash, but they use the same switches. In fact, many components from the Wranglers are shared or very similar to those in Cherokees. :)


Looking at one of the online mopar parts places, the 4-switch panel is $78... a little steep IMO. But, try looking for part numbers with a lower suffix (AE instead of AG) This site had one of the lower prices http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/splash ... eid=214583 even lower than I found on ebay.


edit: you posted while I was typing this post. The wiper switch is an Off/On/Momentary. The 3rd position is used to spray the washer fluid and returns to the On position when released.
 
The first link with the switches would be great to keep a blended look with the rest of the interior. I could get the four switch cluster and buy two switches for front and then rear warning.


With my previous ride, I liked having all white warning lights on a seperate switch, so if I was parked, I could back down some of the more blinding light. I may experiment with the fact of if I have both switches activated, it will then activate the HLF. In other words, I can park the vehicle and turn it off and run the LEDs only to the front only and have low amp draw. The rear of the vehicle will have a Whelen ISP94C, so that will be pulling some amps, and I'll probably leave the vehicle running for the HAW strobes. Only during a response would both switches be activated, hence, activating the HLF.


As far as the moparpartsamerica website, every time I'd try to narrow down to a certain part or do a search, it would come up to a blank area and not display nothing. If you found the 4 switch panel, could you give the direct link to it?
 
that's odd, it was showing correctly yesterday. When I do the search for 4897505AG it comes up, but with white text on a white background. If you drag your mouse over it, it should make it readable. I'd probably just call them... http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/storef ... eid=214583


Activating the HLF with two switches would be cool, I'd use a relay on each switch (one switching the power and one switching the ground) for the HLF but there are probably cleaner ways to do it.
 
whatevah said:
...but with white text on a white background. If you drag your mouse over it, it should make it readable...
Click to expand...

That's what was throwing me off. Yeah, it'll be a bit of a better deal than what's on fleabay, so I'll probably go for it. Thanks for pointing that out to me.
 
just a thought buy why not a handheld siren with built in switching? 3,2,1 for the lights to back off and the whole controller can be stashed away when not in use. Just a thought.
 
A lot of it is personal preference. As far as the siren, I love the way a Unitrol sounds, hence the 80k and a simple three position toggle switch being used. For the rest of the switching, I'm wanting to keep things simple, don't want a whole bunch of different switching. I found out with my previous ride that a bunch of different switches can make a PITA if you're actually driving, so I simplified the switching (most of it was put on a pursuit switch).


As far as the Jeep, I've got the four switch bezel on the way and the two aftermarket but market looking switches to put in the two empty slots. Now, for my F-150, I could've gone for the suggested setup, but, I already have the second Unitrol 80k.
 
EVModules said:
If you want ZERO visibility, use a hidden toggle switch that's out of sight to transfer HVAC blower controls to siren/lighting control.
Click to expand...

how do you accomplish this? can you explain? and does it still retain HVAC controls?
 
Holy thread revival, batman! :p


I believe Sean, EVModules, may have talked about this in one of his previous threads. I'd search his posts to see if you could find it.
 
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