Sync Option on Whelen Liberty SX model lightbars

Keith K.

Premium Member
This option enables a half/half, wig/wag style pattern on SX - IO board style Liberty lightbars. This is a great option for a parked patrol car.


1. Remove all the lenses including end caps from the Liberty lightbar.


2. Slide out the 4 corner modules.


3. Lift off the top aluminum plate.


4. Orient yourself with the IO board.


5. Identify the 16 pin connector on the drivers’ side of the board.


6. Identify the 3 pin connector adjacent to the 16 pin connector.


7. There should be two wires running into the 3 pin connector. The third open slot in the housing is the option for the sync function.


8. Determine how you’re going to power this pin. I utilized the white/red wire from the 16 pin connector for this option. Depending on your lightbar setup, you may use another wire from the 16 pin connector or run an auxiliary wire from a 12vdc switch.


9. Decouple the 3 pin amp connector from the IO board.


10. Install the optional wire (in my case the white/red wire from the 16 pin harness) into the open port on the 3 pin plug.


A.) Be sure a female pin is installed if your routing a auxiliary wire.


11. Re-couple the 3 pin connector with the IO board.


Power up the lightbar and apply continuous 12vdc to the white/red wire (user supplied) and you lightbar should shift to a driver/passenger alternating flash pattern.


Steady burn LED's (California Steady Red) will remain steady burn regardless of what mode is in operation. Also, the takedowns and alleys will also flash unless they are activated to their primary mode. The Traffic Advisor option will also override the sync flash.

 
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chief

Junior Member
Sir,


Thank you very much for the video and pictures of Liberty Sync. It is very much appreciated.
 

Andy L.

Member
Great post! It has been awhile since I connected the sync on the Liberty that was on my patrol car but it seems that this feature also opened up several new flash patterns as well for the entire bar. By applying power to the sync option via a switch allows for the bar to take on several different looks as well. :thumbsup:
 

chief

Junior Member
Keith,


How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?


I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Supporter
chief said:
Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?


I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?
There's a thread going now, where the merits of a special tool for extracting these sorts of pins are being discussed: Extraction tool for AMP pins


I used a flat-blade eyeglass screwdriver to bend the tab back inside of the pin before removing the wire from the sixteen-wire plug. I used the corner of a razor blade to pull the pin back out before reinserting the pin into the empty hole on the three-wire plug.
 

emtanderson51

Forum Guru
chief said:
Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?


I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?
He didn't pull out the pin. It was never inserted fully. That connector comes standard with 2 wires coming out for the flashing td and al. the 3rd spot is open from the factory. If you have a new pccs9np it comes with 2 spare wires with the pin connected but not inserted into the wiring block. You can also order these wires with the pins attached from Whelen or one of their distributors. Steve
 
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Keith K.

Premium Member
chief said:
Keith,

How did you pull the white and red wire out of the original 16 pin connector?


I tried pulling on it and found if I pulled any harder the wire will separate from the metal pin at the end. Is there special tool or way to remove the wire with the pin still attached so it can be easily inserted into the 3 pin connector?
I used the same techniques as shues. There are also pen removal tools that will facilitate the removal of pins. See the link the Shues provided.
 

Ultimate D

Member
We did this on a friend of mines Liberty and it worked, I am not completely sure, but I believe his is an SL bar. It has the regular 9 led corners and the economy heads (the ones that only have 4 led's instead of 6).
 
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Keith K.

Premium Member
Ultimate D said:
We did this on a friend of mines Liberty and it worked, I am not completely sure, but I believe his is an SL bar. It has the regular 9 led corners and the economy heads (the ones that only have 4 led's instead of 6).
SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.
 

buddabean

Junior Member
Just wanted to say THANK YOU....... I Synced my bar on my patrol car and damn it made a heck of difference. I Love it. Thanks again for posting this info
 

Ultimate D

Member
Keith K. said:
SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.
Yeah, that is what it is. Thanks again for posting this!
 

bcsfd279

Junior Member
Might be an ackward question, But does this red/white wire serve a purpose? If i pull it out of the 16 pin and put it in the 3 pin, will i be losing some other function? Also, Does this wire follow all the way back to the switch box wiring? Thanks


Ryan
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Supporter
bcsfd279 said:
Might be an ackward question, But does this red/white wire serve a purpose? If i pull it out of the 16 pin and put it in the 3 pin, will i be losing some other function? Also, Does this wire follow all the way back to the switch box wiring? Thanks

Ryan
Have a look at the install manual, here: http://www.whelen.com/install/137/13745.pdf and pick a wire that is unused in your Liberty. Your red/white wire might already be in use for its designated function of front-center LEDs.


Keith has the red/white wire available, because his Liberty has takedowns in place of the front-center LEDs. There isn't room on his Liberty to have both takedowns and front-center LEDs, so his red/white wire is otherwise unused.


The red/white wire is just like any of the other 16 wires in the main cable, as it runs from one end to the other.
 

waldalm

Suspended
Keith K. said:
SL bars had ballasts in them. I'm not 100% sure, but I don't believe the SL was able to do it. Based on your description, your friends bar is likely an economy bar with depopulated heads.

Quick note on the ones I'm sure of: SX were eXtended corner modules, SL were standard 12 LED corners and SE's were Economy versions. While the SL tag was used on some ballast driven units, it's not an exclusive tag.


Also, side note, with so much swapping being done on bars, one of the last things I go by is the Model tag on the frame.
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Supporter
I did another one of these, where the owner uses flashing alleys and takedowns. I just now realized that the alleys and takedowns flash the sync patten as well. For halogen alleys and takedowns, it's only useful on slower patterns where the bulbs get to full brightness. I can only imagine how great it must look with LED alleys and takedowns.
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Supporter
DefianceEngineCompany said:
So i should be able to do this on my brand new Liberty SX2
Yes, of course. The '2' in the 'SX2' model number simply means that you have a 54" Liberty.
 

spc2315

Senior Member
does anyone have a video of the process and a demo of the new "unlocked" patterns...i'd love to have the option of using a fast flash pattern while responding flip a switch and have a nice slow one while on scene! Thanks in advance :)
 

SFD516

Member
spc2315 said:
does anyone have a video of the process and a demo of the new "unlocked" patterns...i'd love to have the option of using a fast flash pattern while responding flip a switch and have a nice slow one while on scene! Thanks in advance :)

I agree a video would be great.
 

factorone33

Member
shues said:
I did another one of these, where the owner uses flashing alleys and takedowns. I just now realized that the alleys and takedowns flash the sync patten as well. For halogen alleys and takedowns, it's only useful on slower patterns where the bulbs get to full brightness. I can only imagine how great it must look with LED alleys and takedowns.
I just put high-intensity takedowns and LR11 alleys in my SX, and with this feature, it's mind blowing. I'll have to take some video once I get some more work done (I am so incredibly behind, it's not even funny anymore).
 

SFD516

Member
factorone33 said:
I just put high-intensity takedowns and LR11 alleys in my SX, and with this feature, it's mind blowing. I'll have to take some video once I get some more work done (I am so incredibly behind, it's not even funny anymore).

I just hooked up the liberty sync, all the bar does is half and half on the same pattern just like in the video, can you change the pattern when its in sync, in other words can you have sync pattern and non sync pattern? i tried with out success with the scan lock wire nothing changed in the sync.


ultimate goal


postion 2- slower pattern ( comet flash for example)


postion 3- fast pattern (modu flash for example)
 

waldalm

Suspended
Couple notes to add:


For setting your pattern via your scanlock wire while in sync mode, you can only do it WITHOUT the flashing TD's or Alley's going.


Best bet, power the rear of your bar, set your pattern and the front will adapt to it.


Also, in boredom, counted the new flash patterns. 31 in total.
 
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Keith K.

Premium Member
SFD516 said:
I just hooked up the liberty sync, all the bar does is half and half on the same pattern just like in the video, can you change the pattern when its in sync, in other words can you have sync pattern and non sync pattern? i tried with out success with the scan lock wire nothing changed in the sync.

ultimate goal


postion 2- slower pattern ( comet flash for example)


postion 3- fast pattern (modu flash for example)
I'm not exactly sure what your asking but I'll try to answer.


With the sync mode enabled, you can change the flash pattern by applying power to the Scanlock wire. I've noticed over the years that the Scanlock wire can be temperamental when all the LED pairs at on. Just keep tapping and ensure you have a solid connection when doing so.


The sync mode is completely separate from the non sync mode as far as patterns are concerned. I have set up department cars in the following fashion.


Slide switch 1- all rear LEDs.


Slide switch 2- all LEDs.


Slide switch 3- adds flashing takedowns, alleys and headlight wigwag.


The sync wire is connected to a relay through a park kill. When the vehicle is in motion, the bar is in sync with the ActionFlash pattern. When in park, the inboard LEDs go to non sync slow patterns and the corners are set on Signal Alert.


If this did not answer your question, let me know.


It's been a while but I think the flashing takedown pattern might dictate the the sync pattern.
 

StEaLtH2

Enthusiast
Does anyone know if this can be enabled on a Freedom.?


Thanks :cool:
 

StEaLtH2

Enthusiast
I would like to add to this Tip that it works on the Freedom as well. :cool:
 

shues

Lifetime VIP Supporter
StEaLtH2 said:
I would like to add to this Tip that it works on the Freedom as well. :cool:
Yes, it does! I forgot to post that here when I found out by trying it myself earlier this year.
 

NiftyX

Member
I did try this on a SL model and couldn't get it to work. I did notice that since I have takedowns, there are two outlets for LEDs that were just tucked away in the board and was able to use one of those wires at the 16-pin harness for power. On the SL model, the outlets don't have constant power (since they control the flash on the heads), but the wire at the harness showed a constant +12VDC.


Why does this option not work on the SL model; does anyone know specifically what is different on the board?
 

MEVS06

Restricted User
Can I sync the bar on say single flash 75, I would like to set it up this way on a push button for on scene use.
 

P1808

Member
The sync wire is connected to a relay through a park kill. When the vehicle is in motion, the bar is in sync with the ActionFlash pattern. When in park, the inboard LEDs go to non sync slow patterns and the corners are set on Signal Alert.


can you describe how you wired up the the park kill and sync?
 

Granty400

New Member
Hi, i have two liberty io boards, one of them is from Germany "PN 01-0264877-00A" and only seems to operate in "sync" mode also only has 2 patterns, the other one is a from the UK "PN 01-0269879-00A" and works both in "normal" mode and "sync" mode but only has the first 9 patterns in "sync" as the video on here has. 

What i am trying to get at is there different flash patterns programmed into these boards depending on what country they are destined for?

Best regards

Paul. 
 
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Keith K.

Premium Member
I suspect there are indeed different patterns programmed depending on local regulations. I've seen state contracts that specify different flash patterns.
 

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