Traffic advisor, arrow, signal master etc info thread

[chief1562]

John,


Just wired a code3 narrowstick controller to the wifes arjent I just built.(narrowstick neg.wired)


It has 6 amber cudas it's all wired up and working.She even picked out the patterns for a for postions when I went through the programing (will show video later).


Now for the question on a regular code3 that has a dimmer button it automatic when wired but on the narrowstick it's a seperate wire.


Where do I wire it into the 6 lights so it will work?


Tried a few different places still didn't work.


Thanks ahead.

 

[chief1562]

Well got in touch with Keith from Code 3 and he sent me the manual for the narrowstik.


It shows the newest model of it. And I asked if it would work for mine which has a manufacture date of 02/26/07 and was told it will work with most of the narrowstik controllers. If using the original wiring harrness you can use the dimmer function. It's explained in the manual.


Unable to upload the Code3 narrowstik manual.zip - Your file of 703.3 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 512.0 KB for this filetype


Unable to put in PDF in manual thread so will upload the pages instead

 

[ERM]

The "dim" feature on the LED control head simply activates one wire on the output. This output connects to each lighthead to trigger a program in the Code 3 LED lighthead to go dim. If you had the lighthead in front of you and applied power and ground to it, the lighthead would come on steady. If you applied power to the dim wire, the lighthead would reduce it's intensity.


The dim feature does not vary the intensity of each lighthead via the control head outputs, but rather activates the dim function built into each C3 lighthead. Hope that helps to better understand it.


Tony

 

[chief1562]

The "dim" feature on the LED control head simply activates one wire on the output. This output connects to each lighthead to trigger a program in the Code 3 LED lighthead to go dim. If you had the lighthead in front of you and applied power and ground to it, the lighthead would come on steady. If you applied power to the dim wire, the lighthead would reduce it's intensity.

The dim feature does not vary the intensity of each lighthead via the control head outputs, but rather activates the dim function built into each C3 lighthead. Hope that helps to better understand it.


Tony

Tony,


I relize that but if you read my thread you would see I said Vista in post 41. Not a code 3.

 

[ERM]

Tony,
I relize that but if you read my thread you would see I said Vista in post 41. Not a code 3.

No, I understand it's a Fed Sig bar you're using. You asked about the Code 3 controller which I was explaining what the dim wire was for and when it would only work. Your question in #41 is not written well, so it's a little misleading. I think you are asking how is it different on the controllers that don't have a dim wire, but do have a dim feature. If that's it, then the answer is Pulse Width Modulation. It's in the program on the controller. It's the way the microchip controls the outputs to provide that feature. Does that answer your question?


Tony

 

[rwo978]

As I'm understanding, where most dims lower the voltage, on C3, it activates a circuit that lowers the voltage.... in other words, they operate differently.

 

[ERM]

As I'm understanding, where most dims lower the voltage, on C3, it activates a circuit that lowers the voltage.... in other words, they operate differently.

 

[chief1562]

In the narrowstik it is a seperate wire and that wire must also be in the code3 TA units because the leds have a third wire for the dim feature has explained to me by


Keith Nurnberger Tech Service Dept Code3 (314)426-2700 ext 1393) This is from the email "It all depends on what you installed. If you installed a 6 LED module with a dimming wire on it then you would connect the dimming wire to the white wire. That should be how your halogen module was set up. If the module did not come with a dimming wire, then it will not work for dimming control".


Has for this controller(see pictures) it is a built in feature and does not reguire the dim wire. the dimming feature worked but it was like a stutter dimming and not what I was looking for.


That is why I went with the narrowstik controller. I was hoping to use the dimming feature but since I can't I'm not going to worry about.


The oly reason I but this in the thread so other members could find it and understand why they can't do too.

 

[ERM]

In the narrowstik it is a seperate wire and that wire must also be in the code3 TA units because the leds have a third wire for the dim feature has explained to me by
Keith Nurnberger Tech Service Dept Code3 (314)426-2700 ext 1393) This is from the email "It all depends on what you installed. If you installed a 6 LED module with a dimming wire on it then you would connect the dimming wire to the white wire. That should be how your halogen module was set up. If the module did not come with a dimming wire, then it will not work for dimming control".


Has for this controller(see pictures) it is a built in feature and does not reguire the dim wire. the dimming feature worked but it was like a stutter dimming and not what I was looking for.


That is why I went with the narrowstik controller. I was hoping to use the dimming feature but since I can't I'm not going to worry about.


The oly reason I but this in the thread so other members could find it and understand why they can't do too.

Isn't that exactly what I said?

 

[chief1562]

Yes and I said the samething 3 posts a go. I'm not arguing with you in this thread.


I posted what I learned from a tech from Code3 and thought I would passs it along.

 

[Sparky_911]

Anyone know of a good LED replacement for FS Signalmaster 322502 27w bi-pin bulb would be??? Its near impossible to find bi-pin led's....Would a "wedge" style work in place of the bi-pin?? Im trying to save some juice and still keep the brightness if not make it brighter.

 

[nblaser]

How do I wire a CODE 3 halogen TA to a whelen cencom??????!?!?!?!?1?1/

 

[kadetklapp]

OK so what's the skinny on all these OHP Cuda light sticks flooding the market? They are available dirt cheap and some even come from the sellers with warranties. I'm told they are negative switched which in my mind at least, means a regular arrowstik or Signal master controller will work them, yes?

 

[rwo978]

OK so what's the skinny on all these OHP Cuda light sticks flooding the market? They are available dirt cheap and some even come from the sellers with warranties. I'm told they are negative switched which in my mind at least, means a regular arrowstik or Signal master controller will work them, yes?

They're basically a 6 head LED arrow. Nothing special. Well, they're interior only, not weatherproof, there's no front lens. They are negative switched and will work with most common controllers.

 

[kadetklapp]

They're basically a 6 head LED arrow. Nothing special. Well, they're interior only, not weatherproof, there's no front lens. They are negative switched and will work with most common controllers.

Thanks. I'm assuming these came on the market due to a fleet update?

 

[rwo978]

Thanks. I'm assuming these came on the market due to a fleet update?

I would assume that as well.

 

[Phantomsniper801]

trying to connect a Federal Signal Signalmaster traffic advisor to a Code 3 Narrowstik controller.


I connected the wires in the same configuration as they were when the previous owner clipped them but I'm assuming a different light stick was used.








I'm confused because I have more wires than holes to put them in!


Help!


thanks in advance.

 

[ERM]

The very first post explains your setup. Top right picture is how you need to setup your arrowstick to the Code 3 controller.

 

[Phantomsniper801]

still beyond my comprehension.

 

[ERM]

You have an 8 head TA with a controller that has 5 outputs. Heads 1 and 8 will have their own outputs (1 and 5). The remaining heads will share the outputs. Pair heads 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 6 and 7 together.


This should give you a better visual.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKfAxg0iVSc

 

[Phantomsniper801]

I have that green connector piece that has 7 Inlets, I have a cable that has 9 different colors, lol, I'm just trying to figure out what colors go in what holes.


the Red one is a thicker gauge than the rest, I'm assuming this is the Positive cable, but I still dont know what slot its supposed to go in. sorry for making it so difficult, could be the lack of sleep, I dont know.

 

[Phantomsniper801]

Making some progress. I have lights flashing, but they are really dim.

 

[JohnMarcson]

I have that green connector piece that has 7 Inlets, I have a cable that has 9 different colors, lol, I'm just trying to figure out what colors go in what holes.

the Red one is a thicker gauge than the rest, I'm assuming this is the Positive cable, but I still dont know what slot its supposed to go in. sorry for making it so difficult, could be the lack of sleep, I dont know.

You need to go back to the first post and review the basic functionality info before going any further. Specific wire to wire info means nothing if you don't understand the concept of how the two devices are supposed to work.


Your bar works by supplying constant power to a large red wire and switching each head one by one with ground. Your controller is similar except itr switches the heads via ground in groups. You will need to group some of your control wires to make the same number of control wires as out puts.

 

[chief1562]

trying to connect a Federal Signal Signalmaster traffic advisor to a Code 3 Narrowstik controller.
I connected the wires in the same configuration as they were when the previous owner clipped them but I'm assuming a different light stick was used.


View attachment 70174


View attachment 70175


I'm confused because I have more wires than holes to put them in!


Help!


thanks in advance.

I've been swapping Code 3 and Signal masters around for some time and here's what I have done for easier wiring.


Also if you have 8 lights you'll need to double up on 2.


I'll see if I can find the picture of the on I did.


And the way I just wired the wifes Arjent up is I started by writing down the order of the wires startinf from left to right looking at the TA in the bar.


And when you wire the controler and you are looking at it from the back it is right to left because it's turned around.

 

[JohnMarcson]

If I looked up the order right, this is your situation and what you need to do. ERM, check my work....

 

[chief1562]

This is my arjent wired to a Narrowstik.


But I also built my Arjent so the wires will be different.


But like i said in the above just check each light and right down the color.


And go from there.


For me it was easy.


I forgot to mention that the above convertion was done with the TA's in their orginal configuration not modified inside.

 

[adamogden]

I need some help with some wiring. I have a Federal Signal Smart Siren controller w/ Signal Master, and a MX7000 with a built in TA. I want to use the SS to control the Traffic Advisor, however all of the SmartSIren documentation talks about a 9-wire lead from the TA.... but the Code 3 only has 7 wires. Do you guys know the correct connection I need to make?

 

[foxtrot5]

How many light heads make up the TA in your MX?

 

[adamogden]

How many light heads make up the TA in your MX?

There are 8 lamps, however three sets are paired, so there are five circuits.  The tail coming from the TA is 7 wires- There are two red wires, which I have learned are apparently two positive leads, then the five black negs for each circuit.  I am trying to tie it into a FS SmartSiren, which has an 1-port connector.  I just don't know which terminal is positive, negative, etc. I assume I'll have to have some jumpers, but I dont know which ones.  Help!!

 

[Duster]

Good evening everyone...

I have a troubleshooting/tech question about a FS Cuda Signalmaster. If this isn't the right place, please re-direct me:

I have a six-light Cuda Signalmaster that has been installed and working well for over a year. I used it at a scene on Friday night, and when I shut it down, module 5 (one inboard from right end) stayed lit. Now, if there is power to the bar, that module stays lit. All patterns just cycle around that module, but it never goes out or works within the pattern. It is mounted interior in the rear window of a Ford Expedition, so moisture is not an issue. In fact, nothing changed other than it hadn't been activated in a couple weeks, then was active about 15 minutes, and now this. I have a quick-connect at the bar, so I just have it unplugged for now.

Any suggestions where to look to fix this? Is it a ground issue, since I think this bar is hot all the time and cycles by grounding the modules? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

David

 

[MtnMan]

anAny suggestions where to look to fix this? Is it a ground issue, since I think this bar is hot all the time and cycles by grounding the modules?

Correct. Either the wire for that module is shorted to ground or (more likely) the switching transistor inside the controller is shorted.

You can troubleshoot by disconnecting the wire for the problem module at the connector. If the module stays off, the issues is in the controller. It's a pretty easy fix to unsolder/solder the transistor, but you can also find used working controllers cheap. I have a few if you're interested.

 

[Duster]

Correct. Either the wire for that module is shorted to ground or (more likely) the switching transistor inside the controller is shorted.

You can troubleshoot by disconnecting the wire for the problem module at the connector. If the module stays off, the issues is in the controller. It's a pretty easy fix to unsolder/solder the transistor, but you can also find used working controllers cheap. I have a few if you're interested.

Thank you!! I suspected it would be a ground issue, what with the circumstances of the failure. So as I understand it, if I disconnect the module wire at the controller, and the module goes dark, the problem is likely in the controller, but if it stays lit, the short is in the bar? I will work on it later this week, since I start vacation on Wednesday.

If it ends up being a controller problem, I may contact you. I'll be looking for an SMC56 or equivalent (full feature with aux outputs). I'm currently using the old style controller...haven't transitioned to one of the new ones with the multiple programs and big red buttons yet...too pricey at the time for my cheap blood.

 

[Duster]

Correct. Either the wire for that module is shorted to ground or (more likely) the switching transistor inside the controller is shorted.

You can troubleshoot by disconnecting the wire for the problem module at the connector. If the module stays off, the issues is in the controller. It's a pretty easy fix to unsolder/solder the transistor, but you can also find used working controllers cheap. I have a few if you're interested.

Good morning. Well, I was able to spend a little bit of time on this, so I tested the controller. Even when I disconnect the module at the controller back, the module stays lit. If I read this correctly, that means there is a short to ground somewhere between the controller and the module, because the circuit is being completed without the controller being involved, correct?
Are these failures common within the lightbar themselves, or am I looking more likely at an abraded cable somewhere along the run (I ask because it is a concealed run from the front to the rear of a Ford Expedition...not pretty to troubleshoot). I'm thinking about tinkering inside the bar (swapping heads, etc) first, before pulling all the plastic and tracing/replacing the whole cable run. Thanks for your help, and if you have any additional suggestions, feel free.

David

 

[MtnMan]

Even when I disconnect the module at the controller back, the module stays lit. If I read this correctly, that means there is a short to ground somewhere between the controller and the module, because the circuit is being completed without the controller being involved, correct?

Yes, I agree with your conclusion. Like you said, check inside the TA stick first. If the short is in the cable, there might be a spare conductor that you could use instead of tearing everything out.

 

[Doyle257]

Ok, I have an Excal, with a halogen arrowstick, with the deluxe controller. if I were to swap the halogen for LEDX modules, should it just be Plug 'n' Play?

 

[Wolfie]

This thread is freaking priceless for building custom, or working with arrows someone else altered. Thank you so much!

 

[Wolfie]

Out of curiosity, if I were to create a box that would convert a negative switched control head to run a positive switched set of lights, would there be a market for that here? I am thinking since there are a lot of negative switched control heads out there, but people may want to do a custom job where all the heads share a common chassis ground, it could come in handy. If enough people seem interested I'll try to make one and then post in the For Sale section. I think I can custom make them to control 5 - 10 heads off a box that normally has as few as 5 outputs. Let me know here or in a PM please. You don't have to commit to buying one. Just let me know if there is potential interest please.

 

[React319]

http://www.whelen.com/install/136/13699.pdf


how about showing a picture of the unit and the wires? Might help

Just joined this forum, Found this thread with a Startpage search. Was looking for a pin out diagram for my traffic advisor and BOOM! here it is. Thanks for posting this PDF, it was EXACTLY what I needed, and now I'm going to wander around this cool forum to see what else is here. Have a great day!

 

[Wolfie]

Just joined this forum, Found this thread with a Startpage search. Was looking for a pin out diagram for my traffic advisor and BOOM! here it is. Thanks for posting this PDF, it was EXACTLY what I needed, and now I'm going to wander around this cool forum to see what else is here. Have a great day!

Welcome aboard! I found this place like you did...it kept popping up when I was looking for info for a lightbar I was rebuilding. I figured if there was so much info available here I might as well jump in head first. I haven't looked back since.

 

[roaddawg7]

Anyone know about the wiring of a dominator 8 head. I got it from a member here, but it was modified not to their knowledge. Its an 8 head with a TACTLTD1 control box. Some wires were added so it is not your normal dominator, it has twice the amount of the wires so its strange.

I just wanted an 8 head unit to swap my linz6 heads into so I could use it as a t/a. When its on flash mode everything works. But on left, right and center out the end flashers act weird and don't flash at the same rate. I tried to adjust them by the program wire on them but they wont change.

If anyone has a bar to trade that's got a good cable length 20ft+ and a TAD control head that will work. I can give you the bar I have with control box and some extra lights to trade with. Or if anyone can walk me through changing the wiring so it works as an 8 head unit that would be great.