Unitrol 80K - using PA wiring for radio output over speaker?

[JohnnyAirtime]

Hello folks... first post here.


I'm new here, and am using a Unitrol 80K in an off-road race vehicle.


... I'm not using any siren, but am using the Air Horn via an 100W speaker.


I'd like to know if it's possible, to use the PA (public address) wiring ... which the manual shows as a Green and Purple (disconnecting a gray and yellow) as my leads for a radio speaker? We use VHF radios, with standard speaker outputs and I'm wondering if the Unitrol 80K has the ability to re-broadcast from the (VHF) radio itself.


Any help is appreciated!! Thank you,


Johnny

 

[Skip Goulet]

Hello folks... first post here.

I'm new here, and am using a Unitrol 80K in an off-road race vehicle.


... I'm not using any siren, but am using the Air Horn via an 100W speaker.


I'd like to know if it's possible, to use the PA (public address) wiring ... which the manual shows as a Green and Purple (disconnecting a gray and yellow) as my leads for a radio speaker? We use VHF radios, with standard speaker outputs and I'm wondering if the Unitrol 80K has the ability to re-broadcast from the (VHF) radio itself.


Any help is appreciated!! Thank you,


Johnny

If you have the full-sized Unitrol control head with the 80K amp., you should see "Radio" on the selector. Also on the amp., it should show which terminals to use for radio re-broadcast. Just to be using the amp. only, you may not be able to do what you're wanting.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

If you have the full-sized Unitrol control head with the 80K amp., you should see "Radio" on the selector. Also on the amp., it should show which terminals to use for radio re-broadcast. Just to be using the amp. only, you may not be able to do what you're wanting.

I completely understand the control boxes and the use of a knob or selector when moved to "radio".


... isn't that kind of information just a "given" when it comes to installation? I surely thought it would be.


I'm using the Unitrol 80K ONLY... I don't have the control box(es), nor did I plan on using them.


The amp itself does not have "terminals", but a molex style connector. 12 pin to be exact. Hence the reason I spoke up about the colors of those wires coming from the molex plug itself (the actual writing on the back of the unit is rubbed off, or I'm unable to read it - and it gives some insight to the pinouts). I'm hoping that someone with expertise on THIS unit can help.


If your not familiar with the product, this may help; http://www.fedsig.com/docs/80k.pdf


Anyone else have information that can help with this??

 

[7d9_z28]

Aren't you awfully new to be giving that kind of attitude when somebody tries to understand what you are dealing with? I noticed you added information after Skip responded, information that would have helped in your original post.


Skip is VERY knowledgeable and is a valuable asset to this site. If you want help, I suggest you clarify your original post, and not have such an attitude right off the get go.


opcorn:

 

[Skip Goulet]

Aren't you awfully new to be giving that kind of attitude when somebody tries to understand what you are dealing with? I noticed you added information after Skip responded, information that would have helped in your original post.


Skip is VERY knowledgeable and is a valuable asset to this site. If you want help, I suggest you clarify your original post, and not have such an attitude right off the get go.


opcorn:

Thanks for coming to my defense, but I'm not offended. My 80K amp. is one of the pre-Federal models when Unitrol was still owned by Dunbar-Nunn out of California. MINE has everything stamped on the bottom of the amp. saying which color wires do what, etc. If Johnny's is the Federal-built Unitrol, there may well be some differences there.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Aren't you awfully new to be giving that kind of attitude when somebody tries to understand what you are dealing with? I noticed you added information after Skip responded, information that would have helped in your original post.


Skip is VERY knowledgeable and is a valuable asset to this site. If you want help, I suggest you clarify your original post, and not have such an attitude right off the get go.


opcorn:

Attitude? :undecided: ... my post wasn't to stir up anyone or ruffle feathers. If it did, sorry to hear that.


My initial post, stated I was using a Unitrol 80K.


My initial post asked if I could use the specific wiring in regards to the 80K.


I knew the post was pretty straight to the point. Just as I like it to be when something is asked of me.


The reply I received, actually came off to me as-if I'm the one with a lack of knowledge on the product... or that I'm too dumb to see a "radio" selection on the rotary knob. A knob that isn't even there on the 80K. I guess I responded with MORE information, and more of a specific request once I knew that I had to explain the situation in more depth. I thought the initial question was pretty straightforward... your response is telling it wasn't. Again, sorry for that.... I should have been more in depth in my initial request. :duh: :bonk:


... now that I've explained myself, how about we get back the issue at hand. Or, is because "Skip" says it might not work... it won't?! :hail:


Better?!

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Thanks for coming to my defense, but I'm not offended. My 80K amp. is one of the pre-Federal models when Unitrol was still owned by Dunbar-Nunn out of California. MINE has everything stamped on the bottom of the amp. saying which color wires do what, etc. If Johnny's is the Federal-built Unitrol, there may well be some differences there.

Skip... very good to hear that your not offended, it wasn't meant to be offensive!


I can respect your knowledge without even knowing you or your persona. So I hope that in this case, your wrong ( ) and it can work with radio rebroadcast. That would be the cats meow at this point... as I got these 80K amps for $5each. :thumbsup:

 

[unlisted]

I completely understand the control boxes and the use of a knob or selector when moved to "radio".
... isn't that kind of information just a "given" when it comes to installation? I surely thought it would be.


I'm using the Unitrol 80K ONLY... I don't have the control box(es), nor did I plan on using them.


The amp itself does not have "terminals", but a molex style connector. 12 pin to be exact. Hence the reason I spoke up about the colors of those wires coming from the molex plug itself (the actual writing on the back of the unit is rubbed off, or I'm unable to read it - and it gives some insight to the pinouts). I'm hoping that someone with expertise on THIS unit can help.


If your not familiar with the product, this may help; http://www.fedsig.com/docs/80k.pdf


Anyone else have information that can help with this??

May I make a suggestion? You should take a few minutes to read the site rules, faq, and terms of service you agreed to upon registering on this forum. they are all easily accessible at the top of the forum in the menu bar links. We also have a new members area which may help you on this forum.


Thanks for your time.

 

[Skip Goulet]

Check pages 7 and 8 on the Federa spec. sheet. Those are the only mention of using the radio adapter that I've seen, unless I've missed something (which happens). I'm certain that you'll have to have a control head of some sort to use the radio relay function. I looked at the specs for the motorcycle siren. Remember, with Unitorol, it's a common amp. adapted for several different uses. For the motorcycle hookup it only requires a SPDT switch, as it allows for only wail and yelp to be used. The Unitrol siren I have was made as a motorcycle siren, but the amp. actually has all the other Unitrol features. A friend of mine who is a retired vollie fire chief and radio tech. wired this Unitrol up thru an old G.E. control head that has a three-position selector switch, which allows me to have wail, yelp and hilo, push manual siren with a push button he installed. I'll talk to him in a day or so and see if a radio relay can be used w/o a control head. If it can be done, he'll know.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Check pages 7 and 8 on the Federa spec. sheet. Those are the only mention of using the radio adapter that I've seen, unless I've missed something (which happens). I'm certain that you'll have to have a control head of some sort to use the radio relay function. I looked at the specs for the motorcycle siren. Remember, with Unitorol, it's a common amp. adapted for several different uses. For the motorcycle hookup it only requires a SPDT switch, as it allows for only wail and yelp to be used. The Unitrol siren I have was made as a motorcycle siren, but the amp. actually has all the other Unitrol features. A friend of mine who is a retired vollie fire chief and radio tech. wired this Unitrol up thru an old G.E. control head that has a three-position selector switch, which allows me to have wail, yelp and hilo, push manual siren with a push button he installed. I'll talk to him in a day or so and see if a radio relay can be used w/o a control head. If it can be done, he'll know.

Your awesome Sir!! Thank you for that...


I'll watch the thread and see if there's any enlightening news. Again, I hope it can be done (for my sake) and I won't have to use a control head or the PA300-012MSCPTY I have on hand. I'm trying to use the KISS method, and not have to use a 'dash mount' or control that allows anyone to switch the sirens on/off. I'd also like to eliminate as much clutter from the dash as possible... hence the use of the 80K amp in the first place.


If I can do anything to 'support' the sight, I'm happy to do so. As no, I'm not knowledgeable enough on any of this to 'give back'... I just happen to know enough, due to my reading of the support structure (web, forums, manuals, etc). Google searches came up with this site having the most knowledge, on the unit. So I'm hoping for the best outcome.


Another option for us was to obtain something like a SHO-ME 30.2108 and just hide the unit under the seats... but, any that I found were costly and/or already sold. I'll save that for another thread down the road if this 80K doesn't end up working out.


Again, thanks Skip... your a BIG help!

 

[shues]

As usual, I'm late to the party:

 

[ERT1111]

Dunbar-Nunn years ago had an undercover option for radio rebroadcast but it turned out to have a lot of issues so they discontinued it. The best way would be to add the controller for it and utilize the functions to get PA and the radio rebroadcast. Only problem it would also have the siren functions operational and I am not sure if you want that option or if you would need it disabled. (It could easily be disabled). Let me know if you need any more help.

 

[Shawn L]

looking at shues pic....... wouldnt you use the 2 pins labeled "audio input" , 1 and 5 ? with a switch to interupt when you dont want the radio rebroadcast?

 

[Skip Goulet]

Your awesome Sir!! Thank you for that...

I'll watch the thread and see if there's any enlightening news. Again, I hope it can be done (for my sake) and I won't have to use a control head or the PA300-012MSCPTY I have on hand. I'm trying to use the KISS method, and not have to use a 'dash mount' or control that allows anyone to switch the sirens on/off. I'd also like to eliminate as much clutter from the dash as possible... hence the use of the 80K amp in the first place.


If I can do anything to 'support' the sight, I'm happy to do so. As no, I'm not knowledgeable enough on any of this to 'give back'... I just happen to know enough, due to my reading of the support structure (web, forums, manuals, etc). Google searches came up with this site having the most knowledge, on the unit. So I'm hoping for the best outcome.


Another option for us was to obtain something like a SHO-ME 30.2108 and just hide the unit under the seats... but, any that I found were costly and/or already sold. I'll save that for another thread down the road if this 80K doesn't end up working out.


Again, thanks Skip... your a BIG help!

Johnny, I spoke to my friend, and he's an old pro at sirens and lights. It's his opinion that you're going to have to use some sort of control device or at least a potentiometer to control your radio volume. For that you could get the pot at any electronics store, along with one of those little aluminum switch boxes they sell, and mount the volume control knob on it, and you might need one for power. He did say that if you need to access any of the siren sounds, they are all grounded. Since you're considering hiding the amp., you might want to check out this site for a very low-priced hide-away electronic siren for just under $100, if I remember correctly. I have one of their remote mount sirens with the amp. under the seat and the control-head in the between-the-seats console. It works just fine. The website is: www.speedtechlights.com . They are a Texas based company. I've used their stuff with no problem for some time; but I must caution you that everything they have is, frankly, cheap foreign stuff; so they might not hold up to constant use. I've had no problems with the siren, and I bought a refurb visor light from them a couple of years ago for $40. I realize that you got the Unitrols amps super-cheap, but this would be an easy and relatively inexpensive way of doing it. I'll be interested in knowing what you end up doing either way. :yes:

 

[unlisted]

Johnny, I spoke to my friend, and he's an old pro at sirens and lights. It's his opinion that you're going to have to use some sort of control device or at least a potentiometer to control your radio volume. For that you could get the pot at any electronics store, along with one of those little aluminum switch boxes they sell, and mount the volume control knob on it, and you might need one for power. He did say that if you need to access any of the siren sounds, they are all grounded. Since you're considering hiding the amp., you might want to check out this site for a very low-priced hide-away electronic siren for just under $100, if I remember correctly. I have one of their remote mount sirens with the amp. under the seat and the control-head in the between-the-seats console. It works just fine. The website is: www.speedtechlights.com . They are a Texas based company. I've used their stuff with no problem for some time; but I must caution you that everything they have is, frankly, cheap foreign stuff; so they might not hold up to constant use. I've had no problems with the siren, and I bought a refurb visor light from them a couple of years ago for $40. I realize that you got the Unitrols amps super-cheap, but this would be an easy and relatively inexpensive way of doing it. I'll be interested in knowing what you end up doing either way. :yes:

I would not recommend anything from stl- more so when the OP already has a unitrol amp and I'm pretty sure they can find a controller for far less than a stl siren cost


Further, the OP could simply purchase a used name brand siren off this website for far less than $100.00 and not have any concerns with the "stl" brand.


OP- before you even consider stl- check their reviews, complaints and feedback on this website and Google. Personally I would not use their products even if they were free.

 

[Skip Goulet]

I would not recommend anything from stl- more so when the OP already has a unitrol amp and I'm pretty sure they can find a controller for far less than a stl siren cost

Further, the OP could simply purchase a used name brand siren off this website for far less than $100.00 and not have any concerns with the "stl" brand.


OP- before you even consider stl- check their reviews, complaints and feedback on this website and Google. Personally I would not use their products even if they were free.

This gentleman make a good point. I haven't checked out the complaints on this website; but as I noted before STL's products are foreign made. I just went to their website. They have changed hands and have moved from Richardson, TX (near Dallas) to Buda, TX (near Houston), and it appears they have made changes in their product line. The siren I have is their "Final" model. The one I have is about 2-years old. It cost $99.99 when I got it. The current "Final" model has a different amplifier and the price is down to $89.99. "Unlisted", as I said, makes a good point. Always excercise "caveat emptor": let the buyer beware.

 

[Shawn L]

could you use a cb radio that has a pa feature? hide the cb under the seat and just use it for the pa ?

 

[unlisted]

could you use a cb radio that has a pa feature? hide the cb under the seat and just use it for the pa ?

OP requires radio rebroadcast feature, not pa.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Just getting back to checking in here...

looking at shues pic....... wouldnt you use the 2 pins labeled "audio input" , 1 and 5 ? with a switch to interupt when you dont want the radio rebroadcast?

That's what I'm hoping.


... and SHUES, thanks for the picture Shawn is referencing. I also now have more units to look at and see the diagram/faceplate you sent a picture of.

Johnny, I spoke to my friend, and he's an old pro at sirens and lights. It's his opinion that you're going to have to use some sort of control device or at least a potentiometer to control your radio volume. For that you could get the pot at any electronics store, along with one of those little aluminum switch boxes they sell, and mount the volume control knob on it, and you might need one for power. He did say that if you need to access any of the siren sounds, they are all grounded. ........... I'll be interested in knowing what you end up doing either way. :yes:

Skip...


Thanks for getting back to me with what your amigo had to say. I appreciate that.


And I thought about the STL type method, there's the need for the equipment to be robust... and withstand a beating. So that's probably out of the question to go down the "pep boys" of sirens route. But I appreciate the ability to have choices, and have gone down that road myself... it didn't work out. Hence the reason I'm back to making the Unitrol 80K boxes work out. I (now) have 12 of them, and at a price of $(cheap) for them all , I'll make them work. Once I do, I'll post back the process of how it was made to work for my benefit.

....... OP already has a unitrol amp and I'm pretty sure they can find a controller for far less than a stl siren cost
Further, the OP could simply purchase a used name brand siren off this website for far less than $100.00 .............

Oh ya? Very interested as I'm super new to this site... I guess I need to branch out and take a peak around for such the sirens!! If you find some, at good prices/quality... please refer me to them, or them to me! Thanks-in-advance!

could you use a cb radio that has a pa feature? hide the cb under the seat and just use it for the pa ?

No. Less is better. I already have some FS PA300 units I can use, but we want hide-a-way... nothing to be seen, but a toggle switch and/or momentary button. CB Radio PAs are crap (in my opinion), and not of the caliber we're looking for... as well, don't rebroadcast VHF or any "other" radio but their own self.

 

[unlisted]

OP - make a wanted post in the classifieds sub forum for a controller, or if you want offer a unitrol or two as a trade. :


I guarantee you will find what you need for a good price on this website. After all, we are the primary website for sirens and lights! :thumbsup:

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

OP - make a wanted post in the classifieds sub forum for a controller, or if you want offer a unitrol or two as a trade. :

I guarantee you will find what you need for a good price on this website. After all, we are the primary website for sirens and lights! :thumbsup:

Thank you sir! ... done; http://elightbars.org/forums/f20/unitrol-80k-controller-100w-speaker-s-34489/#post287518


Now I'm off to the for-sale sections to browse.

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Thank you all for your help... Especially you SKIP!!


... I've since decided to go another route, and won't be using my Unitrol 80K amplifiers.


I've posted them for sale, as well as the PA300s I have on hand.

 

[Skip Goulet]

Thank you all for your help... Especially you SKIP!!

... I've since decided to go another route, and won't be using my Unitrol 80K amplifiers.


I've posted them for sale, as well as the PA300s I have on hand.

You will let us know what you decide to do, won't you?

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

You will let us know what you decide to do, won't you?

I think what I'm going to do, is just use a PA300... (somewhat) hide it, and remote mount the 'airhorn' toggle.


Or, if all else fails (I don't have the proper room for the PA300...etc, etc.)... my last resort is a new Soundoff ETSA-200R

 

[Skip Goulet]

I think what I'm going to do, is just use a PA300... (somewhat) hide it, and remote mount the 'airhorn' toggle.

Or, if all else fails (I don't have the proper room for the PA300...etc, etc.)... my last resort is a new Soundoff ETSA-200R

Be careful with that toggle. Remember it controls both the airhorn and manual siren on the PA300. Check your PM

 

[JohnnyAirtime]

Be careful with that toggle. Remember it controls both the airhorn and manual siren on the PA300. Check your PM

Ya, I will. I can double-toggle the siren side of the toggle, meaning... put two toggles in, for it's function. This way, the operator won't confuse siren and airhorn.


The actual thought was to break out the toggle (splice in behind the faceplate) by putting a couple remote mounted momentary push buttons in for airhorn, and for siren (eliminating a toggle all-together).


I'm sure once we obtain the PA300s w/priority (or whatever we end deciding to use), it'll all come together.


PM replied.