Upgrading an old mini-pumper

[grfd711]

I had a recent visit to KY to help out my old vollie dept with their annual fundraiser. Since I'm the "light guy" for these guys, they asked me to mount a 52" Edge 9M lightbar for them to replace the Twinsonic on the rig. I've got to get the straps to do that project next time I'm in, as they don't want anymore holes on the roof.


On the back of the rig, they've got a pair of FedSig incandescent flashers I may replace out of pocket. I'm interested in your guys' opinions on replacing them. I've thought of doing some pimp pods back there, as that'll reduce amp draw and be more effective, not to mention not having a light flashing in the sideview mirror to those in the cab. I've also considered mounting a pimp pod facing to the side of that rear facing pimp pod, so as to still have some warning to the side at the rear, giving a wider footprint if the vehicle is blocking traffic.


I'll probably install a pair of pimp pods in the grille of the vehicle, too, as there's no grille lights.


Here's pics for you guys to contemplate. Remember, this is out of my pocket (as they're budget was enough to get the used Edge and that's it), but I'm open to suggestions for other things to try. Remember, the goal is increased light output and reduced amp draw.

 

[JohnMarcson]

What oh what shall happen to the twinsonic you remove? If it's up for grabs let it be known that I call dibs

 

[MPD 818]

What oh what shall happen to the twinsonic you remove?

+1

 

[Fast LT1]

I say, pimp pod that thing out!

 

[Rusted413]

Why not throw some can-style strobes on the back - inexpensive and lower amp draw but still effective. You can add additional pimp pods to mix it up, but if its me I'd rather have something a little more substantial back there.

 

[Rusted413]

Also, love those old style mini pumpers/brush trucks. Fond memories

 

[grfd711]

Also, love those old style mini pumpers/brush trucks. Fond memories

Mini pumpers are somewhat common from the area I used to live in, due to poor terrain or access for a full size engine. Some will argue only having a 400 gpm pump for two 1 1/2" handlines isn't NFPA appropriate, the safest thing to do, blah, blah, blah, but sometimes the VFDs have to make do with what they've got and what funds they have. Still, it can pump those two attack lines, a booster line and sprayers under the front extended bumper for grass fires, and, it holds their extrication gear, so it's a mini-pumper/brush/light rescue all in one truck.


Regarding the "custody" of the Twinsonic, I've been told it's mine if I mount the Edge for them. There's a possibility of more Twins, but I dunno if they still have some of the spare ones or not layin' around. I looked briefly when I was helping put up chairs and didn't find none, but couldn't look all over the place.


As far as the "can" style strobes, they MIGHT have some self contained units layin' around, as they had purchased some at least 11 years ago and put on some rigs. I dunno if they do or don't, but it's an option to work with. I just have to find out IF there's any left. If so, about the only thing I'd have to do is get an amber dome, as they were all red. They didn't have either of their broken down tankers there when I was visiting, but one of the tankers has a Twin on it with the can style strobes in place of the rotators. Imagine a Strobehawk, but a Strobesonic instead. :lol:


As far as the grille, I was thinking either 4 or 6LED pimp pods. Regarding the rear, IF I do pimp pods, I was thinking the 3LED pimp pods. As far as colors, here's another thing to get your opinions about: The bar is all red, with four strobes being to the front. If I leave it like it is, I was considering making one of the grille LEDs white. So, think I should do that OR try to get some clear lenses and make two of the strobes white and leave both grille pimp pods as red?


I'm siding with the clear strobes, as a clear strobe just has a great "pop" to it and damn near every red LED out there does a great job of being seen. The only thing that's not making me side with making two of the strobes clear is the more money I'd have to pour into the project, and the "custom" cutting I'd have to probably do.

 

[dmathieu]

Full rear/angular coverage is very important. Red strobes, even though 360 degree, for the back is not the most effective. Red is the worst color for strobes, especially can type. An inexpensive, yet highly effective alternative might be 2 Code 3 550s, or 2 Federal Sentrys. I would do 1 red, 1 amber. You will get extremely effective coverage in any direction that you want. As far as unwanted light in the mirrors, black out only the small offending portion of the domes. IMO.


Dan

 

[ryan]

Dibs on the rest of the twins!!!

 

[grfd711]

I'm emailing my buddy who's the chief to see if they have others sitting around. Nothing will happen for a while, as I don't plan on going back that way until late spring. That gives me plenty of time to prepare for the project (i.e. get the money together!).


I'm thinking the can style strobes may be something decent as far as looks when lights are NOT turned on. Crappy part is I'd have to find out where the flasher is for the incandescents so I can remove the flasher. If I use LEDs, I can just wire them in directly, though.

 

[C17LVFD]

Here's a crazy thought.. Mount the pimp pods in the incandescents housing... No flashback, old school with new school twist.. It'll be like MSP... Michigan that is...

 

[theroofable]

Wow whats the year on that truck? We have one exectly the same except its red. Ours is an 81. We are remounting it soon though.

 

[dmathieu]

I'm emailing my buddy who's the chief to see if they have others sitting around. Nothing will happen for a while, as I don't plan on going back that way until late spring. That gives me plenty of time to prepare for the project (i.e. get the money together!).

I'm thinking the can style strobes may be something decent as far as looks when lights are NOT turned on. Crappy part is I'd have to find out where the flasher is for the incandescents so I can remove the flasher. If I use LEDs, I can just wire them in directly, though.

I'll bet there's a flasher in one of the bases.


How about changing the bulbs in the existing BR2s to halogen, and changing one of the lenses to amber. I have a NOS amber lens in stock. Old look, but brighter!


Dan

 

[nerdly_dood]

My advice would be to not use LEDs if that's an older truck. Go with a red and white pair of grille strobes or halogens, and a red and amber pair of RB6's in back (to keep all Whelen).

 

[grfd711]

...and a red and amber pair of RB6's in back (to keep all Whelen).

I seriously considered the RB6Ps on the rear of the truck due to their effectiveness. But, I hardly see any sold on the used market, so that's spending at least $100 PLUS shipping to get a pair. Remember, this is gonna be out of my pocket. If I can find existing strobes at their station, that's free and the only out of pocket expense is a pair of LEDs on the grille.


Regarding the truck's year of MFG, it's a '79.


As far as the incandescent to halogen swap, is that possible? I've never seen the inside of one of those lightheads, so don't know what type of bulb, socket, etc are there. If it's possible, that's definitely an affordable alternative on my end and I'd be interested in the amber dome down the road, depending on price.

 

[wfdstation42]

As far as the incandescent to halogen swap, is that possible? I've never seen the inside of one of those lightheads, so don't know what type of bulb, socket, etc are there.

They should just have a standard bayonet base automotive bulb in them. A bayonet base halogen bulb like those used in the flasher/takedown lights on Streethawks will fit. My concern would be heat. Halogen bulbs get hotter and the lenses might not be able to handle it. Years ago I did this swap in a Tripp-Lite teardrop, left it on while parked along side the road at a TA and came back to a melted lens.

 

[dmathieu]

The sockets are bayonet. A 50 watt 795X halogen will fit. PM me regarding the lens. As far as heat from the bulb, Federal in the 70s offered this light with a H1 halogen bulb option (different socket). The lens is glass, heat is not an issue.


Dan

 

[theroofable]

Here is a picture of ours. Pretty much the same except we upgraded our rear lights to rotators. However, it did have the same style as yours did.

 

[rwo978]

If you're doing this out of your pocket Ken, forget the LEDs. Go cheap. Get a couple of can strobes or rotators and call it good. Or, if you really want to go all out, get a power supply and some 400 or 600 heads, 2 for the back and 2 for the sides.

 

[nerdly_dood]

If you're doing this out of your pocket Ken, forget the LEDs. Go cheap. Get a couple of can strobes or rotators and call it good. Or, if you really want to go all out, get a power supply and some 400 or 600 heads, 2 for the back and 2 for the sides.

Got a good look at a fire truck with a pair of can strobes in back, they were plenty bright enough, get a proper pair of those or rotators. Note that it's very easy to go wrong and end up with a pair of strobes that wouldn't outshine a candle. Make sure the strobes are sold as Class 1 - class 2 or 3 are not bright enough.


A decent choice would be a pair of these:


http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/detai ... prod_id=55

 

[NPS Ranger]

Sentrys or 550's. If you'd try to get the same brightness with LED's you'd spend 4x as much.

 

[kadetklapp]

Here's a crazy thought.. Mount the pimp pods in the incandescents housing... No flashback, old school with new school twist.. It'll be like MSP... Michigan that is...

+1 , that is, if the housings were a little bigger, otherwise I don't think anything you fit in there would be bright enough or cover each angle the way you want.


Personally, I think those little lights on the rear are "teh ghey" and even in their hayday didn't serve much of a purpose.


I say mount two TIR-4 type pods on the bracket facing the rear. Then mount two more, one on each side of the truck body for side warning.


Remember, he wants to save current draw. Unfortunately that means more $$. Perhaps for right now don't install anything in the grille since the new bar will still be an improvement. What about installing an HLF until they get the funds for some front LEDs?


I wonder if some Sho-Me first gen LEDs by the Inch might be a better option as far as economy, low draw, and slightly better light output goes??

 

[grfd711]

I'm probably gonna put the self contained strobes on the back to save money. It'll look decent cosmetically, too, as it won't look "naked" back there where most folks are used to seeing some type of beacon. So, the only thing to do there is find an amber beacon if at all possible. They may not be in "sync", but that's a minor issue IMO.


I'll at least fork out the dough for the LEDs in the grille, as that'll be the only thing I'm paying for, aside from gutter straps.

 

[aberfitchguy2472]

I'm probably gonna put the self contained strobes on the back to save money. It'll look decent cosmetically, too, as it won't look "naked" back there where most folks are used to seeing some type of beacon. So, the only thing to do there is find an amber beacon if at all possible. They may not be in "sync", but that's a minor issue IMO.

I'll at least fork out the dough for the LEDs in the grille, as that'll be the only thing I'm paying for, aside from gutter straps.

I agree rear strobe beacons will be your best bet. We have an older mini pumper with them on it and they get the job done. I would also try a HLF for the front. If they can have them, I think they are the best piece of warning equipment you can have when responding. You just have to remember to turn them off on scene so you don't screw with the drivers coming the other way. Also, if you can't find an amber beacon, you could do some small amber LEDs below the beacons on the rear body of the truck to give you the amber and it would give you additional warning as well as another level of warning. A small pair of grill LEDs would do a lot for the truck too, in addition to the strobe bar that you are putting on. If you can find a cheap dash light, you could even do that over the grill lights if it would be cheaper for you and so they don't get blocked if they decide to put something on the front of the truck. Just my friendly opinions. Good luck with this project. Keep us updated.


Oh, another low cost thing I've seen done is to get some LED brake lights and attach them to an LED flasher to get some cheaper LED warning on a vehicle if money is tight. Don't know if it is your best option, but it is one if fund are really tight.

 

[Shawn L]

I have some NOS whelen 508 strobe heads, they are an extended style and they would provide some decent side coverage, they also are set up for flat mounting. I'll work you a deal or trade if you can use some.. thanks Shawn

 

[kadetklapp]

+1 on some truck-stop LED brake lights mounted where those old rear lights are. I still think you need a little side warning.

 

[massfirefighter]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Whelen-B ... 500wt_1182


Perfect for your needs except for the white lens. All you need is a little black paint to cover the part of the lenses that can be seen in the mirrors.

 

[grfd711]

It's been verified they'll have some self contained strobes for me, as they're removing two busted tankers from service and both have the strobes mounted to the rear. I'm reconsidering doing the amber lens, as the strobes will be easily viewable to the front of the vehicle since it's a pickup truck chassis, meaning it would function as front warning, too.


BTW, can anybody let me know what the amp draw of a Twinsonic is? It's not a 12F model, just a 12 or 12x, so the four bulbs and the motor should be it. Also, regarding amp draw of the rear incandescent flashers, think that would be more dependent on the flasher itself?