'04 Chevy Silverado POV

[justavillain]

The back rack is what I did on my 11 dmax, but with a cover you are stuck to mounting the roof and running the wires back to the bed/box gap and dealing with the 1 set of wires. An interior bar will work but more expensive over all with adding side and rear light with it.

 

[Eric1249]

Nice looking truck. I would say sell bar and keep it clean.

 

[acala91]

That truck is too nice for a lightbar. Sell it and go with an interior setup.

 

[BCD]

That truck is too nice for a lightbar. Sell it and go with an interior setup.

Thanks...yeah even my Chief at the water rescue was ragging on me. He was like "why didn't you buy two of them?" lol...bastard...always gota be ragging, Chief!

 

[codycat91]

Appears finances are back in order, which is a good thing. I'd say get a backrack with a newer lightbar, like a Whelen liberty or even a SOS Nforce lightbar. Ditch the tonneau.


Much less with than wiring


1) front bar


2) side lights


3) rear lights


4) front/rear hideaways


5) grill lights


Plus you get no flashback with a full size lightbar, don't lose any windshield visibility, have functional takedowns and alleys, and only need to wire up one unit. Backracks are nice, and that truck looks baller! Congrats!

 

[acala91]

Being that you live in a courtesy light state, a full lightbar isn't really necessary and strapping one on top of that badass new truck would look ridiculous IMO.


I would do something similar to this:


Front:


Two Whelen single avengers in blue on both sides of the RVM


Two Whelen M7s in blue in upper grill


Feniex Cannons in the fog lights synced in an x-pattern with the M7s


Sides:


Feniex Cannons or Strobes N More Surface Stars mounted to the side facing piece of plastic in front of the fog lights synced with fog light Cannons


SoundOff intersectors in blue under the side mirrors


Rear:


Two B/A Whelen Dual Avengers in the rear window


Two Feniex T6s in blue mounted between the rear bumper and tailgate


Other:


Whelen PCC8R switching


Whelen ULF44 flasher

 

[BCD]

A lot of good ideas!


Makes it harder to choose. I do love the Fed. Sig. Legend, but I just can't bring myself to drill my new gal. It is easier to run 3 wires than a whole slew of them for hide-a-ways...but the HAW's would look much more clean and keep the truck looking like its true self. (A sleeper in essence.)


I would like to mount the bar on a backrak, but yet another dilemma is I don't want to toss the tonneau aside as 1) it looks good on the truck and 2) it is nice to have covered storage if we go grocery shopping or what ever else and want to keep stuff dry/safe/etc.


Decisions, decisions, decisions.... :undecided:

 

[BCD]

I am going to check today to see if the Backrack will work with my Tonneau cover or not. I know it works with some brands w/o modification and some with modification to the Tonneau. Though it has a longer list that it will not work with. So I will need to cross check what brand mine is with the list. The other thing I have to take into consideration is that we are looking to get a new house that is being built a couple houses away from our twin that has a garage, the height of the rack + the lightbar need to clear the garage or its all-for-not.

 

[Eric1249]

I am a Ford guy, but that truck would make me look twice at a Chevy . Sure a light bar is easier/less to wire. Sure it is effective. But I rather have a bad ass truck then have a back rack on it.

 

[RyanZ71]

Outstanding truck. Give us details. Price you paid, engine size? (5.3L or 6.2 or new 4.3L?)

 

[BCD]

Outstanding truck. Give us details. Price you paid, engine size? (5.3L or 6.2 or new 4.3L?)

It is the 5.3L with active fuel management where it will go from V8 to V4 when the extra power isn't needed to conserve fuel. The new 2014 is completely redone from my 2004, it has SUBSTANTIALLY more room in the cabin over the '04.


2004: 5.3 L 295 hp (220 kW) @ 5200 RPM 330 lb·ft (447 N·m) @ 4000 RPM


2014: 5.3 L L83 GM EcoTec3 5300 V8 355 hp (265 kW) @ 5600 RPM 383 lb·ft (519 N·m) @ 4100 RPM


The truck MSRP'd at $55,525; but with Supplier discounts and other discounts we got the truck for around $48k. With trade-in and I chose a 36 mo lease to allow for lower payments while I am in Nursing School, I am paying $301 per month. Once out of Nursing School, I will purchase the residual through USAA as their rates are as low as 0.45% APR currently and are generally much lower than national averages.


Just upgraded to Sylvania ZXE bulbs and holy hell...what a pain in the ass process! They blocked access to the front left light (passenger side) with the air box which pulls from the front fender-well. So you have to pull the top 1/2 of the air box off and then squeeze your hand into a space barely large enough to fit your hand, then remove the protective cover to access the lamp/bulb. My 2004 was...pull two pins (one per light) and pull the whole housing out, change bulb and put back in. You were done in 5 min MAX. This bulb change took me 15-20 min! The new bulbs are worth it though over the stock OEM lamps. BRIGHT white and good focus through the projectors.

 

[Surgicalcric]

I couldn't cut into the roofline on that beauty in my state - be damned if I would do it in a state where I get the same results as if using my hazards.


Courtesy states...I just don't get it.


Great looking ride.

 

[Surgicalcric]

I couldn't cut into the roofline on that beauty in my state - be damned if I would do it in a state where I get the same results as if using my hazards.


Courtesy states...I just don't get it.


Great looking ride.

 

[rwo978]

Just upgraded to Sylvania ZXE bulbs and holy hell...what a pain in the ass process! They blocked access to the front left light (passenger side) with the air box which pulls from the front fender-well. So you have to pull the top 1/2 of the air box off and then squeeze your hand into a space barely large enough to fit your hand, then remove the protective cover to access the lamp/bulb. My 2004 was...pull two pins (one per light) and pull the whole housing out, change bulb and put back in. You were done in 5 min MAX. This bulb change took me 15-20 min! The new bulbs are worth it though over the stock OEM lamps. BRIGHT white and good focus through the projectors.

It must be on a lot of the projector bulb systems. I had to change the driver's bulb on one of our PD taurus... The passenger side is a breeze, 5 mins and you're done. The drivers.... yeah, plan on at least 30-45 mins. You have to remove the airbox, the airbox lower bracket, and try and hold everything out of the way while doing the bulb. Royal PITA.

 

[Kd8bao]

They should make riser brackets for backrack to be compatible with covers. I would search around

 

[RyanZ71]

The GMT-900s (2007-2013) were also PITA to get to the bulbs in the headlights. I loved how easy it was on the GMT-800s. (1999-2006)

 

[BCD]

They should make riser brackets for backrack to be compatible with covers. I would search around

I looked up the list of compatible Tonneau's and I can't tell if mine is or isn't as it is a GM branded Tonneau. It has a rail mounted system inside the bed, which I think is what you need for those riser adapters, but w/o knowing for sure, I'm not going to spend the money just to try to mount it and it doesn't work.

 

[Eric1249]

Being a courtesy light state why ruin the look of a beautiful truck (even a GM lol) with a lightbar? Keep it all clean. Just my opinion.

 

[BCD]

...why ruin the look of a beautiful truck (even a GM lol) with a lightbar? Keep it all clean.

LoL...Ford guy huh??? :undecided: :bonk:


Hehe...I "WAS" going to buy a ford until I saw how much room is in the new Silverado and then found this beauty on the lot.

 

[Eric1249]

LoL...Ford guy huh??? :undecided: :bonk:

Hehe...I "WAS" going to buy a ford until I saw how much room is in the new Silverado and then found this beauty on the lot.

Taking the GF to the auto show this month, I will have to take a look. I would like a new truck, but I like not having a car payment better lol. Other then the Power Arcs on my brush guard, you really don't notice my lights at a glance. You truck looks great. I think a light bar would ruin that bad ass look.

 

[BCD]

Here are a couple of photos of the Tonneau cover's rail system...anyone know if this will work with the BackRack's risers and BackRack?


Here is a photo of the rear of the bed, by the tailgate.





Here is a photo of the front of the bed, closest to the cab.

 

[BCD]

I just set the lightbar on the farthest back point I could on the roof. If there was a Backrack, I think it may work...


Sorry about the crappy images...sun was angled right at my iPhone...darn evening sun angles!


Thoughts?

















The more I look at this series of photos, the more I like the possibility of using the Backrack (IF it will work with my Tonneau). :undecided:

 

[nerdly_dood]

With crew cab pickups I think it usually looks best to have the lightbar even with the B pillar rather than all the way back.

 

[Storm4200]

I agree. The bar needs to be b-pillar mounted on that truck. As much as I hate to say it, a Back Rack will not work with that cover.

 

[Eric1249]

I agree. The bar needs to be b-pillar mounted on that truck. As much as I hate to say it, a Back Rack will not work with that cover.

I agree. Looks like you will have to stay interior so at least the truck will still look bad ass lol

 

[BCD]

I called BackRack to see if the risers would work with my Tonneau and they said it wouldn't as it needs the type of Tonneau's that are railed inside the bed rails not on top of the rails like mine.


So with that in mind...I REALLY do love this bar, but can't bring myself to drill the mount brackets into my new truck for 1 and for 2, I would have to use 3M cable guide mounts to run the cables from the light to the rear between the bed/cab & 3...I would have to drill holes in the new center console to mount that 10-switch, switch-box. Maybe...if I decided to keep this bar...I would be better off with a digital controller which is much smaller than the 10 switch analog box.


Guess I am going to need to think about this for a little while. :undecided:

 

[TritonBoulder47]

Since this thread is shifting to a different vehicle, a new install thread should be created...


Great looking new ride by the way... :thumbsup:

 

[Kd8bao]

Get the strap kit for the bar, as stated before center roof for mounting but looking at pics you can see it just fine from front as it sits. Run your control cable through the CHMSL housing if you cant ( dont want to ) drill the roof. On a side note, drill the roof but use a 3/4 hole. That way if you take it off you can just throw a NMO antenna mount and a rain cap to reseal the hole. Also pic up a Feniex 4200 with bluetooth and run it from your smart phone. Just keep the hardline controller in center console as a back up. Just throwin different ideas. Love that truck

 

[Jamey@NNE]

You could do an acari mount and a mini bar if you wanted. No holes at all then.

 

[acala91]

Now knowing that the truck is a lease and in a courtesy light state, just keep it simple. A single avenger on either side of the RVM, some Whelen M7s in the grill and a blue/amber warning bar in the rear window and call it a day.

 

[BCD]

You could do an acari mount and a mini bar if you wanted. No holes at all then.

Would that mount support my current lightbar or is it to large to support it properly? (I would assume that my bar is to big to be securely attached.)


I just sent ACARI Products an email asking them if their 34" mount would support my bar or not. So we will see what they say, but I have my doubts because it would still have roughly 9-10" overhang on each side...but I could be wrong and it may work...who knows.


I know the lightbar would look the best mounted above the B-Pillar, but it doesn't look to bad at the very back of the cab. I mean, it's something I could live with if the ACARI mount works.


------


Anyone have any thoughts on:


Strobes N' More ILB Next Gen windshield lightbar?


Strobes N' More Dual Color E66 Warning/Traffic LED Bar for the rear? Maybe mount this on the ACARI mount or get it mounted inside?

 

[acala91]

The SNM interior bar hasn't been out that long so there hasn't been much feedback on it. There was a big thread in visual warning if you want to search for it. The E66 on the other hand has been out for a while and has proven itself to be an incredible value. Its performance is up there with the name brand light sticks for hundreds less.

 

[Jamey@NNE]

The biggest bar I would put on an acari is maybe a 36". It is only supported by the 3rd brake light so you don't want the wind load of a fullsize.

 

[acala91]

You could get a 37" Feniex Avatar for a pretty decent price and it's nice and low profile.

 

[BCD]

What are your thoughts on what I could get for my bar and Whelen 10 switch box? The 37" Feniex Avatar is $1001 on SNM's site.


What if I went with the windshield option and the warning/traffic bar option (inside mount ?) + maybe a couple hiddens on the running boards like the Cannons. I could then get the Feniex 4200 controller to power all the hiddens. Thoughts?

 

[BCD]

Get the strap kit for the bar, as stated before center roof for mounting but looking at pics you can see it just fine from front as it sits. Run your control cable through the CHMSL housing if you cant ( dont want to ) drill the roof. On a side note, drill the roof but use a 3/4 hole. That way if you take it off you can just throw a NMO antenna mount and a rain cap to reseal the hole. Also pic up a Feniex 4200 with bluetooth and run it from your smart phone. Just keep the hardline controller in center console as a back up. Just throwin different ideas. Love that truck

I just watched the video on Feniex's website and all I have to say is wow...I want one! (Feniex 4200 controller) :yes:

 

[Kd8bao]

I just watched the video on Feniex's website and all I have to say is wow...I want one! (Feniex 4200 controller) :yes:

I love the 4200. The bluetooth feature is really handy. Used it to demo for some potential customers and they really were impressed. Lemme know when you're ready to buy

 

[BCD]

I just went outside (yea, dark...but had to look) and maybe as stated above by Kd8bao, just get the new strap kit (would have to screw it into the doorjam area...oh well), then drill through the roof where I could ..IF.. (BIG IF...I have no intentions of not keeping this vehicle after the lease is up) I didn't buy it outright, put a VHF low profile antenna cap or rain cap over the hole using a NMO mount.


...but that way, I keep the HIGH vis with this bar (I mean it is SUPER bright even in direct sunlight!)...and can run everything inside to the storage bins under the rear seats where I could place the Feniex 4200 module. Then keep the control unit upfront (or even run it via my iPhone or iPad).


To me....financially this sounds like the best option. I know it detracts from the clean, sleek look of the new truck, but it is the one negative trade-off for all the positive aspects of the current bar. It would only incur the cost of the new strap kit and then the F-4200.


Also, due to the sunroof...I can't mount the bar at the B-Pillar as I need to leave enough room for the Vent/Tilt feature. When open, it retracts into the roof. So, the lightbar would have to be mounted about midway of the rear doors. (I will position it and take a couple new photos in the daylight.)


Anyone agree or disagree?

 

[acala91]

I just went outside (yea, dark...but had to look) and maybe as stated above by Kd8bao, just get the new strap kit (would have to screw it into the doorjam area...oh well), then drill through the roof where I could ..IF.. (BIG IF...I have no intentions of not keeping this vehicle after the lease is up) I didn't buy it outright, put a VHF low profile antenna cap or rain cap over the hole using a NMO mount.

...but that way, I keep the HIGH vis with this bar (I mean it is SUPER bright even in direct sunlight!)...and can run everything inside to the storage bins under the rear seats where I could place the Feniex 4200 module. Then keep the control unit upfront (or even run it via my iPhone or iPad).


To me....financially this sounds like the best option. I know it detracts from the clean, sleek look of the new truck, but it is the one negative trade-off for all the positive aspects of the current bar. It would only incur the cost of the new strap kit and then the F-4200.


Also, due to the sunroof...I can't mount the bar at the B-Pillar as I need to leave enough room for the Vent/Tilt feature. When open, it retracts into the roof. So, the lightbar would have to be mounted about midway of the rear doors. (I will position it and take a couple new photos in the daylight.)


Anyone agree or disagree?

Having seen this done before it looks like crap.

 

[BCD]

Having seen this done before it looks like crap.

The only other option for mounting this bar is to mount it as far back as possible on the rear doors before the curve of the doorjamb. (close to where I placed it to take photos to get an idea or "backracking" it)


I would like interior and HAWs, but then I have to sell this bar, then spend upwards of $1,000+ for all new lights + the new controller of $550. If I knew someone I could sell the bar to at a good price to cover the new lights or very close to...then that could be a possibility, but I am trying NOT to spend more than needed here. I am trying to pay down expenses so we can get our new house in a few months when it is completed.


I will have to revisit some options that will give me good light vis and output w/o racking up the bills.