OK so I promised I'd post pics of the install... I've posted pieces in my thread about the T-6's... but time to put it all together... unfortunately the video I just took of the back of the car was completely killed by the sun setting off the glass, so I'll have to re-shoot the rear shot another day (and it needs a couple more lights anyway)...
Equipment List
Front Lights:
Headliner: Star/SVP ULB42 ILB
Dash: Whelen DashKing 2000 LED (integrated version)
Grill: 2 Feniex T-6
Headlights: SoundOff Signal ETHFSS-SP-ISO (isolated HLF)
Rear Lights:
Headliner: 2 Star/SVP DLX4
Tail lights: SoundOff Signal ETFBSSN-P TLF
Controls / Siren:
Switch Box: Custom made (left two switches are for siren)(center switch is main power for everything)(Right two switches are LEDs and HLF/TLF)
Siren: Star/Signal SS651 (switches put into switch box above)
Speaker: Sho-Me 30.0200
Video of front of vehicle:
(don't try stalking me I'm moving in a couple days anyway lol)... At the furthest back, it is about 150 ft from the vehicle... when I go to the angle, I move past 45 degrees... not too bad off axis
Picture of Switch Box:
[Broken External Image]:http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c303/minig0d/Accord/IMG_1093.jpg
Switches from left to right
1) Manual / Air Horn
2) Yelp / Wail
3) Master Power (triggers 2 40 amp relays)
4) All vehicle LEDs
5) HLF/TLF
I debated on switch functions... and decided for my purposes, I'd separate the HLF/TLF for power draw purposes... the LEDs draw less than 10 amps combined, the HLF/TLF Draws 20-40amps combined... that way I can leave the vehicle off for short periods of time without it being on fairly safely...
Inside the switch box are 2 40 amp relays... one relay powers the siren unit, the other powers the all of the lights (LEDs completely and switch wires for the HLF/TLF (the power wires for those don't run through the switch box)
Currently, there is a 3 socket "cigarette lighter splitter" hardwired to the switch box... I was originally intending the ILB to be completely removable... so the ILB and dash light (which is removable) both plug into that... If I keep the setup as is I may get rid of the splitter and hardwire them or use a quick disconnect instead... but I have a feeling I'll end up trading the ILB and dash light for something else
All connections on the entire install are soldered and heatshrunk... even where I connected to crimp rings to ground and such, the wire was soldered to the ring as well as crimped...
And that is a notepad sitting on side of the box, not a mystery gadget lol...
Equipment List
Front Lights:
Headliner: Star/SVP ULB42 ILB
Dash: Whelen DashKing 2000 LED (integrated version)
Grill: 2 Feniex T-6
Headlights: SoundOff Signal ETHFSS-SP-ISO (isolated HLF)
Rear Lights:
Headliner: 2 Star/SVP DLX4
Tail lights: SoundOff Signal ETFBSSN-P TLF
Controls / Siren:
Switch Box: Custom made (left two switches are for siren)(center switch is main power for everything)(Right two switches are LEDs and HLF/TLF)
Siren: Star/Signal SS651 (switches put into switch box above)
Speaker: Sho-Me 30.0200
Video of front of vehicle:
(don't try stalking me I'm moving in a couple days anyway lol)... At the furthest back, it is about 150 ft from the vehicle... when I go to the angle, I move past 45 degrees... not too bad off axis
Picture of Switch Box:
[Broken External Image]:http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c303/minig0d/Accord/IMG_1093.jpg
Switches from left to right
1) Manual / Air Horn
2) Yelp / Wail
3) Master Power (triggers 2 40 amp relays)
4) All vehicle LEDs
5) HLF/TLF
I debated on switch functions... and decided for my purposes, I'd separate the HLF/TLF for power draw purposes... the LEDs draw less than 10 amps combined, the HLF/TLF Draws 20-40amps combined... that way I can leave the vehicle off for short periods of time without it being on fairly safely...
Inside the switch box are 2 40 amp relays... one relay powers the siren unit, the other powers the all of the lights (LEDs completely and switch wires for the HLF/TLF (the power wires for those don't run through the switch box)
Currently, there is a 3 socket "cigarette lighter splitter" hardwired to the switch box... I was originally intending the ILB to be completely removable... so the ILB and dash light (which is removable) both plug into that... If I keep the setup as is I may get rid of the splitter and hardwire them or use a quick disconnect instead... but I have a feeling I'll end up trading the ILB and dash light for something else
All connections on the entire install are soldered and heatshrunk... even where I connected to crimp rings to ground and such, the wire was soldered to the ring as well as crimped...
And that is a notepad sitting on side of the box, not a mystery gadget lol...
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