Code 3 2100 Build

[jimmydidit23]

Ok, so before I begin I want to mention I have done tons of searching on these pages, I have put together a plan and now I'm looking for everyone's input on how I should tackle this little project.
I know everyone has their opinion about this particular bar but keep in mind it will never be mounted on a vehicle in any way, shape or form. It will strictly be used for display purposes in my home and be sitting on a shelf, this is the make and model I have chosen and it is what will work for my application.

Now without further ado, my master plan...

I was wanting to build something from the ground up, I figured I could source almost all of the parts from the bay and my local auto or hardware store. I plan on starting with a surplus MX7000 aluminum bar and the lower lenses from a well taken care of Excalibur. Finding all of the parts is not really the problem and fabricating a wiring harness is not an issue either, where I need assistance is choosing the right LED's for the job.
Most comments state that the original LEDX modules are not that bright and they have horrible off axis visibility, that plus not being able to sync up the flash patterns almost killed this little project. Not too long ago I purchased a FS Cuda signal master off of the bay and rewired it for positive switching, changed all the LED's to red and blue then hooked it all up to a PSELED06 that I was told was pulled from an Excalibur and also sourced from eBay. It's alive! As I sat there and marveled at my creation I wondered "why couldn't I do this to a full size bar" and that's what sparked this project.

So I think I want to go with Code 3 Optix red and blue in the respective corners along with Optix on the entire front of the bar, take downs and alleys installed of course. Now for the rear of the bar, my local PD has both older and newer style of 2100's and of course all I can really picture is the rear with LEDX's but I like the color layout.
With the Optix installed in the corner will I have any issues fitting a full bar of LEDX modules?
This is my vision:

/------ ------ ^ ^ ------ ------\
\--------------------------------/

Hope that makes sense, all Opticx 6 along the front and all LEDX along the back controlled by a Code 3 PSELED06 to sync everything up with the two rear amber controlled by a separate flasher.
Again this will not be mounted on a vehicle and will never be used in an emergency situation so brightness is of no concern, I just want to know if it will all fit and if they can be synced up. I understand some of the older LEDX heads do not steady burn so that is one of my major concerns.

So...tell me what you think, hate it, love it, and any comments questions or suggestions?

 

[pdk9]

I'm confused...except for the 2 Amber inboards, are you looking to flash everything off of the 6 output C3 flasher?
Also, are you getting all the modules from the 2100 bars of local, retired PD units?

Even though this is a project bar, I'm not a fan of the LEDX or the optix modules. I also don't see the need for having the rear lit up (nor do I see the need for alleys/TDs) if it's gonna sit on a shelf, so I would focus all your efforts on the front inboards

 

[jimmydidit23]

I figure I should be able to run at least two heads off of one outlet enabling me to flash all four corners with one bank. The othe two banks should cover the rest of the front of the bar no problem. I suppose I could get a second flasher for the rear of the bar making it easy to have just the front or the back energized at any given time. I have seen 8 and even 12 head flashers out there but of course they just go up in price and the flasher I'm talking about is available on the bay for $25.
What s your thoughts' what do you think I could get away with before overloading the flasher"

 

[jimmydidit23]

As far as the modules go I will have to will and deal wherever I can to get the best deal, the local PD is still using them and I currently don't have any connections with the city and my county connection no longer works there.

 

[7d9_z28]

Why does it need 'good off axis', 'super mega brightness', and a loaded rear with TD and Alleys if its just for display? Pretty confused. Regardless, Theres tons of options for LEDs, you can fit Feniex T3/6 in it, probably whelen heads (maybe not 500s, but Justice heads or something) maybe some knockoff surface mount heads for cheap...

 

[jimmydidit23]

I just want it to be as authentic as possible, when I was a teenager in the 90's I built an MX7000 piece by piece with whatever spare cash I could scrape together and a Galls catalog. I didn't want to half ass anything then and I don't want to now. Now as an adult I have the means and just happen to like the look of this particular bar and want to build one just as a project to give me something to do, kind of like a big boy's Lego set.