Code 3 Xl and Code 3 Excalibur.

Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
Long time lurker on the boards, Just now got around to posting. Are these prices fair? Emergency Lights I plan on restoring both, but I would love to know more about the xl, It looks like sealed Beams... and the seller claims it has 2 "wobble lights". oscillators? Any info on both lightbars is appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

Lektricman

Member
Aug 31, 2011
42
Central CA
I would say, go for the XL only, as the Excalibur is overpriced for a used bar, and it is very common as well.


The XL is pretty neat, and you don't see to many of the "all-light" models in sealed beam format.


The wobble lights add to the value of the lightbar, as they were an optional addition to the bar added by code 3. Their official name is "stinger(s)" and wobble/move in a figure 8 motion to clear traffic.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
Lektricman said:
I would say, go for the XL only, as the Excalibur is overpriced for a used bar, and it is very common as well.

The XL is pretty neat, and you don't see to many of the "all-light" models in sealed beam format.


The wobble lights add to the value of the lightbar, as they were an optional addition to the bar added by code 3. Their official name is "stinger(s)" and wobble/move in a figure 8 motion to clear traffic.

That's awesome! I paid no attention to the xl when I first looked at it, and later saw the sealed beams, and the stingers. I had a feeling it was a little out of the ordinary. I may try to get a lower price for the set. I'd like to start a nice full size lightbar collection. what would be a good price for the excalibur? Thank you for the help btw!
 

Lektricman

Member
Aug 31, 2011
42
Central CA
I forgot to say welcome to ELB :thumbsup:


A good price for the Excalibur would be max $50 i would say, but they're too many out there to make it a really desirable bar.


I would get it, but 50 is the max. Its a good bar to mess around with, easy to find parts/upgrades, and in the end if theres VFD looking to trade/upgrade from their Twinsonic you can always trade the Excalibur, help them out and get a Twinsonic in the end.


Always something to think about. Good luck on your decisions, and this is always how great lightbar collections start.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
Welcome. The prices are reversed on these bars. The XL is worth $150, the excalibur $75.


An Excalibur can go for over $200 with options..... or $35 with just 3 rotators. They had several different styles of rotators, plastic, metal and D-tech. They share a top dome with the popular MX7000. You can also make a decent amount of $$ parting them out if they have LEDs or flashers. As with any bar, they are condition dependent too. The excalibur is featured several times under "code 3" in the catalog thread. The one pictured has metal rotators. They can fade, that will hurt the value. It appears to have lower flashers. I could sell the domes for $20 a set, the flasher in the bar for $15, the other misc parts and frame for $50. That's a $10 profit for parting it. No thanks.


XLs came in a several generations and had multiple "wobble" lights available. http://elightbars.org/forums/f18/stingers-stingrays-oscilasers-code-3-oscillating-lights-27556/ The most desirable is the sealed beam stinger. These can be removed from the bar and sold for up to $100 each depending on condition. While a super effective bar, the XL series has become devalued by it's decades of being a mainstay on fire apparatus and the move to LEDs. It was recently discontinued, much to the dismay of economy minded fire depts and collectors, but such is progress. Up until recently members were buying new lenses to restore bars from the 80s... that's how long these bars have been around. Many of these restorations appear in this forum, and the XL is featured several times under "code 3" in the catalog thread. The one pictured is the super heavy XL9000 sealed beam version. Without the stingers or cutout domes it's not worth much, but with the two stingers and the cut out domes you could part it out for $250 if you were willing to wait a bit between listing the stingers.... or you could keep it, put clear bulbs back in the stingers and have a really nice lightbar....
 

CrownVic97

Member
May 21, 2010
3,351
Hazen, ND
I'd go with the XL only. The all-sealed beam option is not found often :thumbsup:
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
Now that I think about it... code 3 never offered and all light version of the sealed beam XL900 (the XL5000 had many versions that were all light). There are 3 light section XL9000s, but they have 2 speaker sections two... Someone prove me wrong, but I believe if it had sealed beam it always had a speaker section (covered or uncovered). I think that's a custom job...
 

stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,540
U.S.A., Virginia
I've seen pictures posted of 54" and 66" all sealed beam light XL's. Don't know if they were factory jobs or retrofitted, but I've seen 'em.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
Looks like I'll be making a trip to Indiana next week. :D let me know what else you guys can find out about the xl. I'm in love with it now. Haha. Any and all info on it would be great. I can't wait to clean it up and proudly display it. And to think, without the vast knowledge on here I would have passed it up. You guys are awesome!
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
stansdds said:
I've seen pictures posted of 54" and 66" all sealed beam light XL's. Don't know if they were factory jobs or retrofitted, but I've seen 'em.

I've seen one or two before but never any factory documentation on them.
 

Richard P

Member
May 23, 2010
1,031
Sudbury, On
If you can talk down the excalibur, theyre not a bad bar to have. I built myself a nice one. It was a rotator/LED combo bar when I bought it with alleys ($175, came with D&R center console, switching etc.) It had 2 rotators, alleys, 2 red dual D&R britelites front a rear. I later upgraded it to 4 corner strobes with a D&R 100w ps, LEDs 4 TDs, 4 worklights, alleys and 2 front and 2 rear lower strobes powered remotely by a ricochet. they are a nice bar to just have around!
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
Richard P said:
If you can talk down the excalibur, theyre not a bad bar to have. I built myself a nice one. It was a rotator/LED combo bar when I bought it with alleys ($175, came with D&R center console, switching etc.) It had 2 rotators, alleys, 2 red dual D&R britelites front a rear. I later upgraded it to 4 corner strobes with a D&R 100w ps, LEDs 4 TDs, 4 worklights, alleys and 2 front and 2 rear lower strobes powered remotely by a ricochet. they are a nice bar to just have around!

I definitley want the Excalibur, it will be a fun light to build on and tinker with. I will try to get both bars for a bundle price. Sounds like you built an awesome bar though! I'd love to see it!
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
I definitley want the Excalibur, it will be a fun light to build on and tinker with. I will try to get both bars for a bundle price. Sounds like you built an awesome bar though! I'd love to see it!

If you want a tinkering bar and excalibur is great. Easy to access stuff and plenty of room. I think the price is a bit high though.
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
JohnMarcson said:
I've seen one or two before but never any factory documentation on them.

I seem to recall that it's not actually possible to make an all-light XL out of a 55" bar that had a speaker grill, as the speaker space isn't the same size as a center dome. This means either someone cut down the frame (unlikely), put in all sealed beams (who in their right mind would do that?!) or it actually came from the factory that way. None of these options are really plausible but it's gotta be one of them.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
lotsofbars said:
I seem to recall that it's not actually possible to make an all-light XL out of a 55" bar that had a speaker grill, as the speaker space isn't the same size as a center dome. This means either someone cut down the frame (unlikely), put in all sealed beams (who in their right mind would do that?!) or it actually came from the factory that way. None of these options are really plausible but it's gotta be one of them.

It could be a cut down triple threat or a custom order...
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
JohnMarcson said:
It could be a cut down triple threat or a custom order...

Sounds to me like it's a very uncommon setup. I like that! Is this something you guys have never seen? Is it a significant find? I am picking them up on Friday night also. :p definitley taking some nice pictures of them after I get home.
 

stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,540
U.S.A., Virginia
JohnMarcson said:
It could be a cut down triple threat or a custom order...

I think PSE would custom make just about anything upon request, so these might have been non-catalog bars, but still factory made.
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
stansdds said:
I think PSE would custom make just about anything upon request, so these might have been non-catalog bars, but still factory made.

That's what I am leaning towards.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
The owner just told me that the XL came off of a 76 Chevy Ambulance. Does that sound correct for the age of the bar? Or was the XL an updated Bar for the older Ambulance? Thanks guys. Hopefully on Friday I will turn this into a restoration thread! :p
 

7d9_z28

New Member
Mar 15, 2012
3,048
West Michigan
There was a 4 section all light XL across the state from me on CL with R/C/C/R domes and stingers in the center. It was all sealed beam, and the red domes had clear cutouts.


It was only like $60, I really wanted it.
 

lite-em-up

Member
May 23, 2010
116
Eastern Missouri
JohnMarcson said:
Now that I think about it... code 3 never offered and all light version of the sealed beam XL900 (the XL5000 had many versions that were all light). There are 3 light section XL9000s, but they have 2 speaker sections two... Someone prove me wrong, but I believe if it had sealed beam it always had a speaker section (covered or uncovered). I think that's a custom job...

I'm just sayin'...... ;)


ai800.photobucket.com_albums_yy285_lite_em_up_E08ECC40_0152_488b6d94e50b0a1ca8f5618c995eb3e493.jpg
 

JohnMarcson

Administrator
May 7, 2010
10,974
Northwest Ohio
lite-em-up said:
I'm just sayin'...... ;)

ai800.photobucket.com_albums_yy285_lite_em_up_E08ECC40_0152_488b6d94e50b0a1ca8f5618c995eb3e493.jpg


Thanks. I knew someone could prove me wrong if it existed. According to this member and one who PMed me, code 3 did in fact offer all light versions of the sealed beam XL. Apparently they showed up a year or so prior to the switch to reflector based rotators. Thanks guys.
 

stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,540
U.S.A., Virginia
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
The owner just told me that the XL came off of a 76 Chevy Ambulance. Does that sound correct for the age of the bar? Or was the XL an updated Bar for the older Ambulance? Thanks guys. Hopefully on Friday I will turn this into a restoration thread! :p

That would have to have been an update bar as the XL was introduced in 1979.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
They're Here! I just got back with both lights! :D The excalibur came with 2 blue outer domes, 2 red outer domes, 2 clear center domes, 1 red center dome, 1 red intersector filter, 1 blue intersector filter, and brand new mounts and straps. It's fully loaded and has front takedowns, alley lights, amber flashers in the rear, intersection sweeps, 4 rotators, and 1 center rotator. The XL has 2 forward facing red stingers(in the par 36 cutouts), 4 Red Dual rotators, and 2 Clear center dual rotators, internals look brand new!!! The only thing I could see with the XL was the lights would slow for a second, then speed up like normal. I was running them off my crown vic which has a 200amp alternator, would it just be from changes in voltage? also, I think I blew a bulb in the excalibur from testing it. :duh: Are they easy to change out? I also looked at the reflectors and the internals in the excalibur and they look brand new. :eek: no wrinkling or anything whatsoever. The excalibur was from a very small town the guy was a police chief for (600 people), so the thing barely got used. also, the red domes are almost brand new and should polish up nicely. No corrosion or rust on either bars! The Guy also gave me an old imperial adjustable fog nozzle for all the trouble I went through to get them. I am a happy camper to say the least! Pics and videos will be up soon!
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
They're Here! I just got back with both lights! :D The excalibur came with 2 blue outer domes, 2 red outer domes, 2 clear center domes, 1 red center dome, 1 red intersector filter, 1 blue intersector filter, and brand new mounts and straps. It's fully loaded and has front takedowns, alley lights, amber flashers in the rear, intersection sweeps, 4 rotators, and 1 center rotator. The XL has 2 forward facing red stingers(in the par 36 cutouts), 4 Red Dual rotators, and 2 Clear center dual rotators, internals look brand new!!! The only thing I could see with the XL was the lights would slow for a second, then speed up like normal. I was running them off my crown vic which has a 200amp alternator, would it just be from changes in voltage? also, I think I blew a bulb in the excalibur from testing it. :duh: Are they easy to change out? I also looked at the reflectors and the internals in the excalibur and they look brand new. :eek: no wrinkling or anything whatsoever. The excalibur was from a very small town the guy was a police chief for (600 people), so the thing barely got used. also, the red domes are almost brand new and should polish up nicely. No corrosion or rust on either bars! The Guy also gave me an old imperial adjustable fog nozzle for all the trouble I went through to get them. I am a happy camper to say the least! Pics and videos will be up soon!
The best thing you can do for testing these bars is to fire up your car and hook them up directly to the battery with jumper cables while the car's running. Then it's pretty much how it would realistically perform on any vehicle. Excalibur bulbs are very easy to fix, just remove the bulb and take it to an auto parts store/post a picture on here and you'll be able to find out the new kind of bulb you need very quickly.


Also, pics and videos or it didn't happen.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
lotsofbars said:
The best thing you can do for testing these bars is to fire up your car and hook them up directly to the battery with jumper cables while the car's running. Then it's pretty much how it would realistically perform on any vehicle. Excalibur bulbs are very easy to fix, just remove the bulb and take it to an auto parts store/post a picture on here and you'll be able to find out the new kind of bulb you need very quickly.

Also, pics and videos or it didn't happen.

I know, I know. Haha. But Yeah that's exactly what I did, Hooked it up with jumpers. I watched a video I had taken when the guy was testing them for me, and the bulb was working during that video, and now it's not. :hopeless: I guess I burned it out. The guy said one of them was starting to so it must have been that one. I just figured out how to replace them. It's an H1 bulb if i'm not mistaken. Also, that 54" XL bar is HEAVY. I'll upload a video to Youtube real quick and I'll snap some pictures on my phone.
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
I know, I know. Haha. But Yeah that's exactly what I did, Hooked it up with jumpers. I watched a video I had taken when the guy was testing them for me, and the bulb was working during that video, and now it's not. :hopeless: I guess I burned it out. The guy said one of them was starting to so it must have been that one. I just figured out how to replace them. It's an H1 bulb if i'm not mistaken. Also, that 54" XL bar is HEAVY. I'll upload a video to Youtube real quick and I'll snap some pictures on my phone.

Just make sure to *never* touch the bulb glass with your bare fingers. Something you probably know, but something that's always worth repeating.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
lotsofbars said:
Just make sure to *never* touch the bulb glass with your bare fingers. Something you probably know, but something that's always worth repeating.

I never touched it until after it burned out, and was cold of course. Is that why? So you don't get burned? Also, I'm waiting on this video to export and then I'll upload it. I will warn you that there's not too much footage of the excalibur(I also didn't show the takedowns, flashers, etc. but they all work.) but I did get a ton of the XL. It's at night in My driveway, so it's not the best Video ever, and I replaced the audio with the theme song from a certain, popular, 30-minute police show. :D Haha. At least It's better than listening to a Crown vic's high Idle. These are also my First Rotating lights ever.
 

7d9_z28

New Member
Mar 15, 2012
3,048
West Michigan
You aren't supposed to touch the glass of bulbs because the oils from your skin shorten the life.


Also, some bulbs are super thin glassed... Easy to grab too tightly and, well, get hurt.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
7d9_z28 said:
You aren't supposed to touch the glass of bulbs because the oils from your skin shorten the life.

Also, some bulbs are super thin glassed... Easy to grab too tightly and, well, get hurt.

That Makes sense, I Figured that would be another Reason. It's burned out anyways, no harm done. Thanks for the Tip. :) I've already Learned Alot here! You guys Rock.

Video of both bars. let me know what you guys think! pics will be up soon too. 394.jpg356.jpg

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stansdds

Member
May 25, 2010
3,540
U.S.A., Virginia
That XL is sucking some serious amps! My guess is about 48 amps and probably a bit more if the motors are worn and if there is any dirt or hardened lube in the rotating assemblies.
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
Three things about the XL:


1) Holy crap that thing is awesome.


2) The issue with the slowing rotators appears to be a power issue, not a motor issue, due to everything slowing down at one time. It can never hurt to grease the rotators and check the belts, though.


3) Taking the red bulbs out of the stingers and swapping them for a clear bulb from each rotator in the center would look, in my opinion, really really cool. It would give the bar a more balanced red/white look while making use of those clear cutouts in the red domes.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
lotsofbars said:
Three things about the XL:

1) Holy crap that thing is awesome.


2) The issue with the slowing rotators appears to be a power issue, not a motor issue, due to everything slowing down at one time. It can never hurt to grease the rotators and check the belts, though.


3) Taking the red bulbs out of the stingers and swapping them for a clear bulb from each rotator in the center would look, in my opinion, really really cool. It would give the bar a more balanced red/white look while making use of those clear cutouts in the red domes.

1) Holy crap is right!!! :D 2) that's what I thought, the belts seem to be well tensioned, the center one was a tiny bit loose though. I also didn't look at the rotator assemblies too much when I opened it up at 4am. :rolleyes: 3) that was actually gonna be my plan! :D they didn't look as cool with the red lenses. should I put the red lenses on opposite so 1 side flashes red at a time, or both the red at the same time?
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
1) Holy crap is right!!! :D 2) that's what I thought, the belts seem to be well tensioned, the center one was a tiny bit loose though. I also didn't look at the rotator assemblies too much when I opened it up at 4am. :rolleyes: 3) that was actually gonna be my plan! :D they didn't look as cool with the red lenses. should I put the red lenses on opposite so 1 side flashes red at a time, or both the red at the same time?

To remove the rotators, all you have to do is remove the pin on top of the center column and it should slide right off. Clean the parts with a cloth or paper towel, and re-grease with a little lithium grease, if you have it.


As for the bulbs, I'd have it so the center flashed red and then white. I've found that, with XL's, it looks a little busy if it's both colors at the same time.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
lotsofbars said:
To remove the rotators, all you have to do is remove the pin on top of the center column and it should slide right off. Clean the parts with a cloth or paper towel, and re-grease with a little lithium grease, if you have it.

As for the bulbs, I'd have it so the center flashed red and then white. I've found that, with XL's, it looks a little busy if it's both colors at the same time.

Ah, I see the little pins, do I take the belt off too? thanks for the tip! and I just now changed them. that's how I set it up. I just heard a sort of ping/metallic pop though.... could it be from one of the lens spring/holders settling? nothing shot off or fell off, just spooked me.
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
Ah, I see the little pins, do I take the belt off too? thanks for the tip! and I just now changed them. that's how I set it up. I just heard a sort of ping/metallic pop though.... could it be from one of the lens spring/holders settling? nothing shot off or fell off, just spooked me.

Yeah, you remove the belt but make sure to remove the plastic washer (you'll know what I'm talking about as soon as you see it) as well so you don't stretch out the belt. They always make those noises, I wouldn't worry about it unless something isn't working right.
 
Jul 24, 2012
153
Lawrenceburg, KY
lotsofbars said:
Yeah, you remove the belt but make sure to remove the plastic washer (you'll know what I'm talking about as soon as you see it) as well so you don't stretch out the belt. They always make those noises, I wouldn't worry about it unless something isn't working right.

I just found it, it's one of the tabs on the back of the lamp, it's fallen off. :/ Can I sauder it back on?
 

lotsofbars

Member
Jul 20, 2010
1,999
NYC, New York
FF/EMT-B HADEN said:
I just found it, it's one of the tabs on the back of the lamp, it's fallen off. :/ Can I sauder it back on?

You can, I don't see why it's not worth a try. Are you talking about the tabs on the back of the bulb itself or the tabs in the bulb holder that power the bulb?
 

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