Federal Signal Vision assistance.

[DLBFalcon]

Hi, everyone! I just bought a Federal Signal Vision light bar. Separately, from a different seller, I bought the controller and "brain" box. When I hook everything up, the pods do the self test (turn in a circle, then face front "home" position). I can turn on the take down lights, turn them off. Turn on an alley light, turn it off. However, if I push certain buttons or use the slide switch the controller flashes like crazy and doesn't work. I have to unplug the power to reset and start all over. I read a post on here where someone was having the exact same problems I'm having. One guy recommended to her that she switch the light bulbs out to # 93 bulbs. I tried 93 bulbs and it didn't make a difference. So I guess I'm stuck now. I've went over the wiring diagrams, tried different bulbs and the controller still goes crazy after a few buttons are pushed. I would really love to get this light bar up and running correctly so if you have any ideas, suggestions or whatever, please let me know! Also had a question...can you change the alley lights to pods 2 and 6 instead of pods 3 & 5?


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

First off, make sure you have all of your power wires hooked up, including the 8 gauge power for the relays and siren.


And yes, you can move the alleys.

 

[DLBFalcon]

First off, make sure you have all of your power wires hooked up, including the 8 gauge power for the relays and siren.

And yes, you can move the alleys.

Ok...so from I've seen online (as I do not have an actual manual) I need the black wire and green wire in the 12-pin plug going to ground. The red wire in the 12-pin plug and the Lug 1 both going to 12 volts, positive side. The lightbar has positive and negative wires, too. Then I have the cord running from the controller to the "brain" and also a cord running from the "brain" to the lightbar. Is that right? With it wired up like this, the controller still goes crazy after a couple functions are turned on. After the controller goes crazy, flashes, makes noise, it won't let me push any buttons - I have to unplug the power in order to reset.


What do you think?


Also, once I get the lightbar up and running...how do you select different pods for the alley lights? The way I want the dome/pod colors...right now it would be using red and blue for alley lights (pods 3 and 5) and I want it to use pods 2 and 6 which are "white"/clear.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

Most problems with the Vision can be linked to wiring issues, but it sounds like you have everything right. However, another issue that can happen is different chips in the lightbar and the "brain". This usually doesn't cause a problem though, as I have a set that has a different revision in all three components. Before we get into all that though, what are you powering the bar and brain with?


Do you have the slide switch controller like this? http://www.911shopper.com/thumbnail.php?pic=uplimg/img_101953_20bdc0a8cf67ebb6fd21f1ea724fc08f.jpg&w=500&sq=Y&b=Y Let me know and ill walk you through it.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Most problems with the Vision can be linked to wiring issues, but it sounds like you have everything right. However, another issue that can happen is different chips in the lightbar and the "brain". This usually doesn't cause a problem though, as I have a set that has a different revision in all three components. Before we get into all that though, what are you powering the bar and brain with?

Do you have the slide switch controller like this? http://www.911shopper.com/thumbnail.php?pic=uplimg/img_101953_20bdc0a8cf67ebb6fd21f1ea724fc08f.jpg&w=500&sq=Y&b=Y Let me know and ill walk you through it.

ACS,


Yes, that is the controller I have. Right now I'm just using a car battery to power it up to test it. The battery isn't in a vehicle, but it is charged. I did see somewhere that microchips or something have to be replaced as a set if they go bad...is that what you are talking about?


Doug

 

[acs680]

ACS,

Yes, that is the controller I have. Right now I'm just using a car battery to power it up to test it. The battery isn't in a vehicle, but it is charged. I did see somewhere that microchips or something have to be replaced as a set if they go bad...is that what you are talking about?


Doug

Yes, however they are hard to find. As far as more troubleshooting, here is what I recommend. Put the keypad into programming mode by unplugging the keypad, holding the reset button, and plugging it back in. The top for buttons should light up. Once that happens, press the 1st button to enter keypad config mode, followed by the 3rd button over from the slide switch. This will clear all of the keypad programming and give you a clean slate. From there, press the 2nd button over from the slide switch to save and get back to the config mode. Now press the 2nd button over from the left. From here, pick a button that you wish to program, and add a simple pattern to it with just two lights rotating such as pattern 52. Make sure the signalmaster is not enabled, no relays are active, etc. Just a simple lightbar pattern only. You can also add simple alley or take down patterns to see if they respond ok. If they do, you most likely have low voltage, and when starting any warning pattern, the bar will light all 7 pods briefly causing a big drain on your power source.


Here is the manual in case I wasn't clear enough on the programming, but feel free to let me know if you need any more help. http://fedsig.com/docs/255273.pdf

 

[DLBFalcon]

Thank you for the programming information and the link to the manual. I won't be able to try it until maybe Monday since I'm out of town right now. I will get back with you and let you know how things work out! I appreciate it!


Doug

 

[rwo978]

Was the controller and LB mated beforehand, or did you piece it together? If you got them from 2 separate sources, the firmware chips in the bar and controller might be different, and not allow it to function correctly.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Was the controller and LB mated beforehand, or did you piece it together? If you got them from 2 separate sources, the firmware chips in the bar and controller might be different, and not allow it to function correctly.

Hi, Ryan, thanks for writing! I did buy the controller and brain box from a guy that shipped them to me. I went to a nearby town and bought the Vision from a different guy. So, I'm thinking the "firmware" chips you talk about just might be the problem. I bet they are about impossible to find, too, huh? Do you think Federal Signal would still sell those? Know anyone that might have a complete set they would want to sell?


I'm still going to try the programming mode that was mentioned in a previous reply. I had no idea Visions had all of this stuff to deal with.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[rwo978]

Since they are discontinued, I'm guessing FedSig doesn't have anymore parts around. The chips are labeled. Check them and put a wanted add out here, I'm sure someone too is looking for a matcher.

 

[acs680]

Hi, Ryan, thanks for writing! I did buy the controller and brain box from a guy that shipped them to me. I went to a nearby town and bought the Vision from a different guy. So, I'm thinking the "firmware" chips you talk about just might be the problem. I bet they are about impossible to find, too, huh? Do you think Federal Signal would still sell those? Know anyone that might have a complete set they would want to sell?

I'm still going to try the programming mode that was mentioned in a previous reply. I had no idea Visions had all of this stuff to deal with.


Thanks,


Doug

No longer available from Federal. You can still find them floating around eBay and this site, but like I said, I have 3 different chips several revisions off from each other with no trouble. After you try the clean slate and programming mentioned above, post the chip numbers from the brain and lightbar board.

 

[DLBFalcon]

No longer available from Federal. You can still find them floating around eBay and this site, but like I said, I have 3 different chips several revisions off from each other with no trouble. After you try the clean slate and programming mentioned above, post the chip numbers from the brain and lightbar board.

ACS,


Hi there! OK, the reset worked up to a certain point. I followed the instructions and the four lights along the top did light up. After that I think I messed things up. It said to select a button I want to program so I pushed on that was labeled as LA (left alley) and after that, how do I put in the numbers "78" for the pattern? Once I hit what I thought to be the 7 button the light bar lit up. Not sure what I'm doing, sorry. Now...I unplug the controller and plug it back in while pushing reset and the top four lights won't light up again. Not sure if I'm stuck in a different mode or what now...sorry! I think I cleared it out (fresh start) and saved it that way. Now just trying to figure out how to program it? I think that is where I'm at, but not sure.


Doug

 

[jdh]

I just sent you a PM with some ideas that might help. Let me know if you have any problems. They are sort of a "b with an itch" to program if you have never done one.


As I mentioned in my PM, that bar uses old programming language.

 

[DLBFalcon]

I just sent you a PM with some ideas that might help. Let me know if you have any problems. They are sort of a "b with an itch" to program if you have never done one.

As I mentioned in my PM, that bar uses old programming language.

JDH,


Thank you! I will check that in a minute! I'm going to reply to ACS after I did some more messing with this lightbar.


ACS, I hope you're reading this, too!


Ok...I messed with the keypad some more. I got the top four lights to come on again to decide which programming mode you want. (Also read the instructions all the way through.) I've been up all night with this. So, I moved the alley lights from pods 3 and 5 to 2 and 6. Then I went to program the takedown lights to use the same pods as the alleys since those pods are white/clear. Somehow the controller went nuts on me and flashed again. I reset and everything was back like it originally was. So, I had to sit and fight it this time to get it to reprogram. (When I would put the solid light on "7" (for 70-something) and flashing light on "2"...it wouldn't save. It was getting frustrating. After I finally got it to move the pods back to pods 2 and 6 it wouldn't let me move the takedowns to 2 and 6. Eventually, it took and I got it to work. My next problem is the "flash" button where pods 1,2,6 and 7 basically wig-wag. Sometimes it'll work fine...turn on, turn off, but sometimes I'll turn it on and when I push the button again to turn it off a siren sound beeps and some of the pods start turning. Not sure why. Then...the slider switch is killing me! I haven't tried to program the slider switch yet, but, when I exit out of programming mode I try to go through the settings that I have entered. Then I will go through the slider positions and it will do different patters as I go through them, but here's the thing...when I flip it to the off position most of the time the lights won't shut off. I wonder if it's a switch that went bad, but after how it went nuts on me and totally reset that one time....then the slider won't shut off....sounds more like an electronic component to me going back possibly? What do you think? Sorry...I hope all that made sense.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

JDH,

Thank you! I will check that in a minute! I'm going to reply to ACS after I did some more messing with this lightbar.


ACS, I hope you're reading this, too!


Ok...I messed with the keypad some more. I got the top four lights to come on again to decide which programming mode you want. (Also read the instructions all the way through.) I've been up all night with this. So, I moved the alley lights from pods 3 and 5 to 2 and 6. Then I went to program the takedown lights to use the same pods as the alleys since those pods are white/clear. Somehow the controller went nuts on me and flashed again. I reset and everything was back like it originally was. So, I had to sit and fight it this time to get it to reprogram. (When I would put the solid light on "7" (for 70-something) and flashing light on "2"...it wouldn't save. It was getting frustrating. After I finally got it to move the pods back to pods 2 and 6 it wouldn't let me move the takedowns to 2 and 6. Eventually, it took and I got it to work. My next problem is the "flash" button where pods 1,2,6 and 7 basically wig-wag. Sometimes it'll work fine...turn on, turn off, but sometimes I'll turn it on and when I push the button again to turn it off a siren sound beeps and some of the pods start turning. Not sure why. Then...the slider switch is killing me! I haven't tried to program the slider switch yet, but, when I exit out of programming mode I try to go through the settings that I have entered. Then I will go through the slider positions and it will do different patters as I go through them, but here's the thing...when I flip it to the off position most of the time the lights won't shut off. I wonder if it's a switch that went bad, but after how it went nuts on me and totally reset that one time....then the slider won't shut off....sounds more like an electronic component to me going back possibly? What do you think? Sorry...I hope all that made sense.


Thanks,


Doug

It does sound like you might have a bad control board in the lightbar or the brain. Then again, there is always the possibility of the firmware chip mismatch... That's the thing with Visions, there is no clear answer to these problems. I'm not sure if JDH offered any solutions that I haven't...


With the issues of not being able to go into program mode without waiting, and the erratic behavior, you might check one more thing. Look in the manual for the jumper inside the brain that disables programming mode if cut. Sometimes, that jumper is cut but not really separated so that it barely makes contact. I have seen this cause some headaches. Look at the jumper real close to make sure it is intact.


Justin

 

[jdh]

It does sound like you might have a bad control board in the lightbar or the brain. Then again, there is always the possibility of the firmware chip mismatch... That's the thing with Visions, there is no clear answer to these problems. I'm not sure if JDH offered any solutions that I haven't...

With the issues of not being able to go into program mode without waiting, and the erratic behavior, you might check one more thing. Look in the manual for the jumper inside the brain that disables programming mode if cut. Sometimes, that jumper is cut but not really separated so that it barely makes contact. I have seen this cause some headaches. Look at the jumper real close to make sure it is intact.


Justin

Agreed. There are so many boards in that bar it could be anything.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Agreed. There are so many boards in that bar it could be anything.

ACS,


I checked jumper J2. It looks like it was cut at one point, but is soldered back together. I think it's a good solder connection and making connection. So I guess now I just need to figure out why sometimes the slider switch won't shut off. Also, one thing I've noticed is when I have the right alley light on and push the right arrow to jog it right, it goes left. When I push the left jog arrow the right alley moves right. Should be the opposite. Is that something I could have programmed wrong when I programmed the alleys to the new pods? (It worked on when RA was on pod 5 instead of pod 6.) Then...just some more ideas if its ok...this controller has one button labeled "A". Have any idea what that is? Can I program that one for another pattern? (It's right next to the reset button right now.) Basically, I think once I have the slider switch positions programmed and figure out what the "A" button is, I should be happy for now.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

ACS,

I checked jumper J2. It looks like it was cut at one point, but is soldered back together. I think it's a good solder connection and making connection. So I guess now I just need to figure out why sometimes the slider switch won't shut off. Also, one thing I've noticed is when I have the right alley light on and push the right arrow to jog it right, it goes left. When I push the left jog arrow the right alley moves right. Should be the opposite. Is that something I could have programmed wrong when I programmed the alleys to the new pods? (It worked on when RA was on pod 5 instead of pod 6.) Then...just some more ideas if its ok...this controller has one button labeled "A". Have any idea what that is? Can I program that one for another pattern? (It's right next to the reset button right now.) Basically, I think once I have the slider switch positions programmed and figure out what the "A" button is, I should be happy for now.


Thanks,


Doug

Check your pattern for jog left/right "patterns", as they are just that, a pattern programmed to a button. As far as programming the buttons for a pattern, yes, any button other than the reset button can have a pattern, relay assignment, signalmaster function, etc. Have fun...

 

[jdh]

Check your pattern for jog left/right "patterns", as they are just that, a pattern programmed to a button. As far as programming the buttons for a pattern, yes, any button other than the reset button can have a pattern, relay assignment, signalmaster function, etc. Have fun...

Not quite, if it has the siren option, you cannot reprogram them. They are the row of push buttons along the center of the keypad. The top row have the alley and jog functions along with the leds. The next row under are siren functions.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Check your pattern for jog left/right "patterns", as they are just that, a pattern programmed to a button. As far as programming the buttons for a pattern, yes, any button other than the reset button can have a pattern, relay assignment, signalmaster function, etc. Have fun...

Ok, will check jog left/right patterns, thanks! Here's another thing I've just found. When I turn the "take down" pods on (pods 2 and 6) they light up for about 5 seconds, I hear a click and then they shut off. I need these to stay on until I shut them off. Any suggestions? I think I'm making progress, thanks to all of your help, but still running into a few snags primarily because I've never messed with a Vision and I think it's the electronics, too. I programmed the slider switch positions and the button marked "A". Slider switch still won't shut off all the time when I tell it to. Tried to turn on take downs when I had the rotor pattern going and it wouldn't do it.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

Ok, will check jog left/right patterns, thanks! Here's another thing I've just found. When I turn the "take down" pods on (pods 2 and 6) they light up for about 5 seconds, I hear a click and then they shut off. I need these to stay on until I shut them off. Any suggestions? I think I'm making progress, thanks to all of your help, but still running into a few snags primarily because I've never messed with a Vision and I think it's the electronics, too. I programmed the slider switch positions and the button marked "A". Slider switch still won't shut off all the time when I tell it to. Tried to turn on take downs when I had the rotor pattern going and it wouldn't do it.

Thanks,


Doug

Doug, It sounds like you made the bar somewhat happy when you cleared out all previous programming. The click is a classic sign of the bar saying it doesn't like something (usually power issues) and ending communication with the brain. Double check all your power wires and fuses, and make sure the lug inside the brain is getting power. Also double check your connections inside the bar. Finally, just try powering it all from a car battery with the car/truck running.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Doug, It sounds like you made the bar somewhat happy when you cleared out all previous programming. The click is a classic sign of the bar saying it doesn't like something (usually power issues) and ending communication with the brain. Double check all your power wires and fuses, and make sure the lug inside the brain is getting power. Also double check your connections inside the bar. Finally, just try powering it all from a car battery with the car/truck running.

ACS,


Hi there! It reset on me again, but I was able to program it back to what I had fairly fast since I have an idea how to now. I still can't get the right alley to move right with I push the right arrow. (It moves left instead.) When I push the left arrow, the right alley moves right. Other than that...just the slider switch not turning lights off in the off position. I haven't figured out why I can't turn on the takedowns while I have rotators going either....like on a traffic stop. Just a few kinks yet...but I'm sure I'll get there. I did figure out the takedowns...they stay on now instead of shutting off after 5 seconds. I appreciate all your help! You helped out a lot. I may still post here time to time if that's ok so maybe I can get some more help later, too! I will have to try a battery/running vehicle and see how it acts.


Thanks,


Doug

 

[acs680]

ACS,

Hi there! It reset on me again, but I was able to program it back to what I had fairly fast since I have an idea how to now. I still can't get the right alley to move right with I push the right arrow. (It moves left instead.) When I push the left arrow, the right alley moves right. Other than that...just the slider switch not turning lights off in the off position. I haven't figured out why I can't turn on the takedowns while I have rotators going either....like on a traffic stop. Just a few kinks yet...but I'm sure I'll get there. I did figure out the takedowns...they stay on now instead of shutting off after 5 seconds. I appreciate all your help! You helped out a lot. I may still post here time to time if that's ok so maybe I can get some more help later, too! I will have to try a battery/running vehicle and see how it acts.


Thanks,


Doug

Glad to help and i'm glad you at least have it doing something now. Feel free to post again or PM me if I can help you with anything else. I've owned a Vision for 16 years...

 

[DLBFalcon]

ACS and JDH,


Thank you both for all of your help! I can deal with what I'm able to get this light bar to do now! Pretty neat bar! If I need some more help I'll be sure to ask.


Take care,


Doug

 

[JohnMarcson]

....just bought a Federal Signal Vision light bar. Separately, from a different seller, I bought the controller and "brain" box.

Doug

well there's yer problem!


Vision controls and brains are notoriously finicky about matching components. I would also only test it on a regulated supply or battery. Do not use a battery charger.


Visions are super cool bars, but notoriously hard to get working when not a matched programmed set.

 

[DLBFalcon]

Glad to help and i'm glad you at least have it doing something now. Feel free to post again or PM me if I can help you with anything else. I've owned a Vision for 16 years...

ACS,


You were so much help with my other Vision I thought I'd ask you about this other vision I got a couple weeks ago. This one is older. The brain box is smaller and the control head doesn't have a slider switch on it. The control head only has 12 buttons on it with green, yellow and red outlines/borders around select buttons. Other than that is just has the pod/arrow stick indicators. How do you program these ones like doing the reset on the other one you were helping me with? Also, I can get a few features to work and two pods I think possibly have bad home sensors. The far passenger side pod turns freely when no power is applied...but when you apply power it goes in a circle sort of jumpy/jittery like it's not sure what to do. I've looked for online manuals for this older version vision and can't find any.


Thanks!


Doug

 

[03cobrazzz]

does someone here can give me the pin locations onthe 12 pin connector and what they are for i got 4,5and6 i cant open the pdf file with the manual please help Thanks

 

[wyhp3310]

DLBFalcon,


I to have worked on the older Vision lightbars that do NOT have the Sirens in them and are a neat little system to setup. I do have the install and Configuration manuals that are on Federal Signals web site under the discontinued section. I will see If I can get the manuals posted in this thread for everyone to use.

255247 old vision Inst.pdf

255258 old vision conf.pdf

 

[Mike C]

I Am having pretty much the same problem with the control head. when i hook it up pods rotate to front and then the head unit goes nuts. I CAN'T ACTIVATE ANY LIGHTS OR BUTTONS. I Am UNABLE To enter programming mode. the chips are all different in the head, brain, and bar. i am trouble shooting but don't know where to start. any suggestions on what to check first? also can anyone provide a cable diagram of the brain to bar 8 pin cable?

 

[jdh]

I Am having pretty much the same problem with the control head. when i hook it up pods rotate to front and then the head unit goes nuts. I CAN'T ACTIVATE ANY LIGHTS OR BUTTONS. I Am UNABLE To enter programming mode. the chips are all different in the head, brain, and bar. i am trouble shooting but don't know where to start. any suggestions on what to check first? also can anyone provide a cable diagram of the brain to bar 8 pin cable?

Power. This sounds like a power issue. What are you using to power the bar. It needs a solid regulated 12 volts DC and at least 45 amps.


Mine did the same thing until I hooked it up to a fully charged battery.

 

[Mike C]

Power. This sounds like a power issue. What are you using to power the bar. It needs a solid regulated 12 volts DC and at least 45 amps.

Mine did the same thing until I hooked it up to a fully charged battery.

I'm Running off a optima "blue top? deep cycle.


on the power front, can i tie two supplies together for the amps?


i have a astron 35Amp and am borrowing a no name 20 amp supply. both are Transformer models. If i wire in parralell i think it will work.

 

[jdh]

I'm Running off a optima "blue top? deep cycle.
on the power front, can i tie two supplies together for the amps?


i have a astron 35Amp and am borrowing a no name 20 amp supply. both are Transformer models. If i wire in parralell i think it will work.

Deep cycle battery or battery charger?


You cannot use a battery charger on that bar. Very bad. I also do not recommend paralleling 2 supplies together. You can if they have the exact same specifications but I still do not recommend.


The bulbs will draw 35 amps just on their own.


I would find a battery to run the bar. You can also change out the bulbs to a #93. They consume a 3rd of the power and have a good punch if you are using it as a display.


EDIT: By way of comparison. I have a vision in my display, I took out the arrowstick and changed the bulbs out from the 55 watt halogens to the #93. It now only draws 16 amps on start-up and runs at around 12 amps.

 

[Mike C]

Deep Cycle Battery. the amperage should not be a problem to provide.


local auto parts can order #93 bulbs But i don't want to spend on bulbs if i can avoid it.


any chance of testing without bulbs? the way the head goes ape after hookup i think that the self test is failing. i need to put one of the pods back in still, but i thought that i could program the head without it. :bonk: sorry still very new to "smart" lights.

 

[jdh]

Deep Cycle Battery. the amperage should not be a problem to provide.
local auto parts can order #93 bulbs But i don't want to spend on bulbs if i can avoid it.


any chance of testing without bulbs? the way the head goes ape after hookup i think that the self test is failing. i need to put one of the pods back in still, but i thought that i could program the head without it. :bonk: sorry still very new to "smart" lights.

If you take out the bulbs it will still go batty because, well the system will fail the bulb test. Make sure all your connections are good. Keep in mind, unless you have spare parts that are known good, it is hard to trouble shoot. There are four parts to test. The brain, keypad, boards in the bar (2 of them, the ip/op servo drive and the light board driver) and the pods themselves.

 

[Mike C]

So, messing with it last night i changed the control cable from the siren to the head and reset the head to default. Now i have alleys, takedowns, and 2 rear flash patterns on the outside 4 pods. i think i've got it down to programming now. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH PROGRAMMING? what i plan to do next is replace one of the pods that's acting up. see if that helps. then start checking boards etc. i have tried the programming listed in the manual and not sure whats going on, might have a bad head or just a bad slide switch. once i get the cabling sorted out i will try to post pinouts here.

 

[jdh]

So, messing with it last night i changed the control cable from the siren to the head and reset the head to default. Now i have alleys, takedowns, and 2 rear flash patterns on the outside 4 pods. i think i've got it down to programming now. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH PROGRAMMING? what i plan to do next is replace one of the pods that's acting up. see if that helps. then start checking boards etc. i have tried the programming listed in the manual and not sure whats going on, might have a bad head or just a bad slide switch. once i get the cabling sorted out i will try to post pinouts here.

Programming for that thing is a major PITA. It uses old binary code.

 

[acs680]

So, messing with it last night i changed the control cable from the siren to the head and reset the head to default. Now i have alleys, takedowns, and 2 rear flash patterns on the outside 4 pods. i think i've got it down to programming now. CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH PROGRAMMING? what i plan to do next is replace one of the pods that's acting up. see if that helps. then start checking boards etc. i have tried the programming listed in the manual and not sure whats going on, might have a bad head or just a bad slide switch. once i get the cabling sorted out i will try to post pinouts here.

http://fedsig.com/docs/255273.pdf


Scroll to the configuration section and follow it to the T.

 

[Mike C]

http://fedsig.com/docs/255273.pdf

Scroll to the configuration section and follow it to the T.

Thanks For the link i think i already have the manual. i will re-read the programming section and try again.

 

[Mike C]

i have notice a number of people with slide switch problems at one time or another. my controller had the same problem, the switch was not bad, but the contacts had oxidized a little. What i did was remove the switch from the board and spray the contacts with De-Ox It sold by my local guitar center. After 3 minutes of work the switch was working fine again. I have been thinking about starting a series of vids on youtube as i go through the restoration process on this bar, to help out anyone who is restoring one. What do you guys think? worth it, or just a waste of my time?

 

[jdh]

i have notice a number of people with slide switch problems at one time or another. my controller had the same problem, the switch was not bad, but the contacts had oxidized a little. What i did was remove the switch from the board and spray the contacts with De-Ox It sold by my local guitar center. After 3 minutes of work the switch was working fine again. I have been thinking about starting a series of vids on youtube as i go through the restoration process on this bar, to help out anyone who is restoring one. What do you guys think? worth it, or just a waste of my time?

It wouldn't hurt and would not be a waist of time.