project CTS bar

[801]

I've had this bar on my shelf waiting for me to start to tear into it. I got it a while back from a member on here and it needs quite a bit of work. It appears to be a early series CTS with the square sided motor. The motor runs smooth and quiet, I got bulbs that work, I had to get a couple of them off Amazon.
A couple of questions, how to get the chrome strip off the front? It arrived damaged and the member shipped me a new one in great condition.
The center tray has a stripped screw, what's the best way to remove it? I've soaked it in penetrating oil, and it's not going anywhere.
What's the best way to repair a dome with a crack down the full length of one of the corners?

Here is a link to the photos:

http://imgur.com/DdRMHYx (end caps)

http://imgur.com/wuK6wPK ( drivers side before I removed the flasher/rotator)

http://imgur.com/wXcYRzQ (speaker tray with stripped screw on right side top)

http://imgur.com/JowatRl (pass side with mirror, the motor was removed when I got it)

 

[ERIC6913]

The chrome strips can be carefully pounded off with a standard screw driver and hammer. I can't give you any tips for the screw, because if i have a stripped screws i take my frame to a machine shop for removal. The best method for the dome is too find another good one lol.

 

[801]

Here are the pictures I tried to attach to the first post.

 

[Tony P]

Here are the pictures I tried to attach to the first post.

I am not seeing any photos

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

depending on the crack you might be able to stabilize it and stop if from growing further using silicone caulk.. Same type used on the aero dome segments. Wont be perfect but I don't toss domes because of hairline crack. let alone CTS domes.

just saying.

Rob

 

[801]

depending on the crack you might be able to stabilize it and stop if from growing further using silicone caulk.. Same type used on the aero dome segments. Wont be perfect but I don't toss domes because of hairline crack. let alone CTS domes.

just saying.

Rob

The dome with the crack is a CTS dome with the amber insert. I am going to save it, because you can't just order a new one up from FedSig. The crack is in the front driver's side corner running vertically in the corner.

 

[801]

I am not seeing any photos

I've tried to attach them a couple of times, but no luck.

 

[Tony P]

I've tried to attach them a couple of times, but no luck.

Probably too large. They have to be 1mb or less. Try running them through a photo shrinker

 

[801]

Today when I look the rotators off I found a tag under the pass side rotator. Possibly it came off the motor???

http://imgur.com/xThMs4G

 

[801]

Well my picture's are still not attaching. I shrunk them to 440kb.....

 

[nerdly_dood]

You can upload them to www.imgur.com without an account and link them from there using thsee tags:

[img] (insert URL here) [/img]

 

[801]

I took the assembly for the rear flasher and front steady off the frame, I found both positive wires were crimped together after the flasher, so both lights flash??? It appears to be factory.

http://imgur.com/Kjej5NW

 

[801]

You can upload them to www.imgur.com without an account and link them from there using thsee tags:

[img] (insert URL here) [/img]

Thanks nerdly_dood for the recommendation.

 

[Stampeed Valkyrie]

I'm trying to remember how the wiring block on my CTS bar was.
The flashing amber has a separate lead. I believe the front facing par 46 was wired into the main power lead. If both are flashing something is most definitely wired wrong. the tung sol flasher should only be connected to the rear lamp.

 

[Tony P]

There is a good image of the block here: http://www.freewebs.com/twinsonic/twinsoniccts.htm

 

[Skulldigger]

The tag is for a motor. You can get a screw removal kit at Sears that will easily remove a broken screw. I have one I use all the time.

 

[801]

I'm trying to remember how the wiring block on my CTS bar was.
The flashing amber has a separate lead. I believe the front facing par 46 was wired into the main power lead. If both are flashing something is most definitely wired wrong. the tung sol flasher should only be connected to the rear lamp.

On my San Diego FD CTS the flashing amber, front par 46 and rotators/motor were all on the same lug.
Many decades ago, when I drove a Diplomat with a red/blue CTS, the Unitrol was wired for Position 1, rear amber, Position 2, 1+ CA red, Position 3 1+2, rotators and HLF. The shop must have changed the wiring on the wiring block. At that time I didn't pay any attention to how it was wired, just changed a bulb if needed and went back to work.

 

[Crownfire]

LE agencies often wired the steady red separate from the rotators. Saw many traffic stops with just the rear amber and forward red lit.

 

[801]

Back in the day, I was told by my FTO to keep the front red on during the stop until the person was free to leave. When I became a FTO I passed that along to my trainees.

 

[Federal Signal Collector]

That sounds like a great way to communicate to other cruisers without unnecessary radio traffic in the area keeping an eye out for your safety!

 

[Federal Signal Collector]

I am a retired officer and was an FTO for many years so, I appreciate that information..sounds like you made quite the impression on your recruits!