HalliganHook
Member
Any thoughts, opinions, installation tips for the Whelen PCC8R Controller?
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IslandFleet said:it's a great piece.
performs well
able to perform multiple applications with it's NC/NO abilities
Kirk @ KD Lighting said:NC/NO abilities? Meaning?
Kirk @ KD Lighting said:I am going to be installing a Freedom with a PCC8R controlling everything. I just received the PCC8R, read through the instructions, looked at all the components, and I am a little confused with how the 8 individual relays get wired. The relay module has 8 individual relays and the main power input, where both (+) leads need to get fused @ 40amps each.
Here's how the owner wants the buttons on the PCC8R wired:
Switch 1 - Entire Lightbar (All LED's, Takedowns and Alley Lights)
Switch 2 - Rear Lightbar Only
Switch 3 - Front Takedowns Only
Switch 4 - Rear Worklights Only
Switch 5 - Left Alley Lights Only
Switch 6 - Right Alley Lights Only
Switch 7 - Lower Level LED's Only (Linz6, ION's, Vertex)
Switch 8 - PAH112 Airhorn (I moved dip switch in Bank #2 to DOWN position for momentary)
How am I wiring the individual relays to accomplish this? I am assuming I will be using the Standard Outlet configuration. Any help is appreciated.
~Kirk
philter74 said:If all outputs are 12V + output, you use the middle connection (I don't know what wire color) on the three pin connectors.
Is the Freedom WeCan or low current switched? If it is low current, you are going to need to use diodes to isolate the functions described above.
IslandFleet said:PCC8R is slightly overkill for the functions you will be using it for...
It's designed to switch high current applications...like your lower level LINZ6s, etc...
but that's OK
you won't have to touch the dip switches in bank 1...that's to disable the diagnostics when using the PCC8's NC/NO functions...
looks like you're only going to be using the middle output wire - I believe it's the yellow
if your freedom isn't a wecan...it's a LC bar...so you will have to diode isolate the rear LED activation wires...
since you want the rear LEDs to come on by themselves AND with the button #1
IslandFleet said:flashing takedown/alley lights have a seperate activation wire...
flashing takedowns & alleys are the WHT/BLU
steady burn takedowns is WHT/BLK
alley lights are YEL & WHT for steady burn
steady burn worklights should be WHT/ORG if they used the AUX (lightbar will then have no cruise function)
you need to diode isolate the rear lightbar activation wires (should be the BLU, BLU/WHT, BLU/BLK, etc away from the rest of the activation wires. this will ensure that when the customer wants just the rear activated, the rest of the activation wires do not see current. when the customer wants "all" on, all the activation wires see current.
Kirk @ KD Lighting said:Quick question on the Backlight feature. If the owner wants the backlight on all the time, can I just hook this wire up to anything that turns on with the IGN in the fuse box?
rwo978 said:yes. amp draw is very minimal for this.