Maxim2Eng
Supporting Donor
After the wettest spring in recent history (20" in May for OK--I think TX got more!), we finally got all our crops planted and sprayed--should've been done a month ago! Situated a portable a/c next to my workbench and decided to get into the Model 11-O (for Oscillating) Super Twin BeaconRay.
I could not get the slave unit to oscillate the full 95* (not even 90*) because the motor was kaput (tried tightening the chain to no avail). So bit the bullet and decided to remove the drive unit AND CHAIN (aaaagh [emoji33]) to replace the motor with a healthy one. In the process, I thought I would share my progress and show all my fellow eLBers HOW YOU TOO CAN MAKE YOUR VERY OWN OSCILLATING 144!!
First, the standard 14 internals:
Unscrew the motor from the mount bracket and remove the bulb holders and shaft--you only need the bracket and motor.
I used a worn out 174 for gears, bulb holder/shaft and bearings (a 174/176 bulb holder/shaft only is needed for the slave unit). I completely disassembled the 174 and discovered many of the parts fit into the 14 frame. In addition, the 174 drive gear was the same diameter as the 14 gear--good to know as you'll see later. I inserted the bulb holder/shaft and connected the oscillating arm to the shaft using the original screw marks on the shaft for alignment. The gear shaft for the oscillating gear was cut from a long 1/4" bolt and tapped for one of the original motor screws--it screwed into one of the original motor mount holes. Plastic tubing worked very well as spacers.
I made a template of the shaft hole to the front motor mount and drilled a new hole using the original front motor mount hole as the shaft hole on the template. One screw is enough to secure the motor.
For the synchro gear, I used a long 1/4" bolt and drilled a pin to secure the gear, then tapped the shaft for the bolt. With the bolt shoulder length, it was enough to snug down on the shaft without interfering with the light tub.
Test run is smooth, strong and quiet...and, unfortunately I can't share a video on my iPad. I will try to upload a video this weekend.
Next steps: reinstall the drive unit and connect the chain. I fabricated a tool similar to the one we made when repairing Louisville P.D. lights (you wouldn't believe how many tree branches they caught!). Closeup pics will be included. If the slave unit still won't oscillate the 95*, plan B will be to use a rigid connection between the units--I have a piece of U-Chanel aluminum rod standing by.
I could not get the slave unit to oscillate the full 95* (not even 90*) because the motor was kaput (tried tightening the chain to no avail). So bit the bullet and decided to remove the drive unit AND CHAIN (aaaagh [emoji33]) to replace the motor with a healthy one. In the process, I thought I would share my progress and show all my fellow eLBers HOW YOU TOO CAN MAKE YOUR VERY OWN OSCILLATING 144!!
First, the standard 14 internals:
Unscrew the motor from the mount bracket and remove the bulb holders and shaft--you only need the bracket and motor.
I used a worn out 174 for gears, bulb holder/shaft and bearings (a 174/176 bulb holder/shaft only is needed for the slave unit). I completely disassembled the 174 and discovered many of the parts fit into the 14 frame. In addition, the 174 drive gear was the same diameter as the 14 gear--good to know as you'll see later. I inserted the bulb holder/shaft and connected the oscillating arm to the shaft using the original screw marks on the shaft for alignment. The gear shaft for the oscillating gear was cut from a long 1/4" bolt and tapped for one of the original motor screws--it screwed into one of the original motor mount holes. Plastic tubing worked very well as spacers.
I made a template of the shaft hole to the front motor mount and drilled a new hole using the original front motor mount hole as the shaft hole on the template. One screw is enough to secure the motor.
For the synchro gear, I used a long 1/4" bolt and drilled a pin to secure the gear, then tapped the shaft for the bolt. With the bolt shoulder length, it was enough to snug down on the shaft without interfering with the light tub.
Test run is smooth, strong and quiet...and, unfortunately I can't share a video on my iPad. I will try to upload a video this weekend.
Next steps: reinstall the drive unit and connect the chain. I fabricated a tool similar to the one we made when repairing Louisville P.D. lights (you wouldn't believe how many tree branches they caught!). Closeup pics will be included. If the slave unit still won't oscillate the 95*, plan B will be to use a rigid connection between the units--I have a piece of U-Chanel aluminum rod standing by.
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