2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 NEW SETUP 05/15

foxtrot5 · Aug 22, 2013

TritonBoulder47 said:
Lookin good man!!! :thumbsup:

It looks good, and sounds better! Although I'm thinking I may have to contact Kevin over at B&M and find out if he can service the siren because she really doesn't sound balanced at all...

foxtrot5 · Aug 26, 2013

Well, since my truck is currently out of service (broken clutch assembly) I figure I may as well get started on building that power distribution center I've been talking about for a while now. Here's my progress so far:

[Broken External Image]:http://70.38.64.76/h/1/222ffc18-aba7-496b-bff2-c84195d9cb8f.JPG

[Broken External Image]:http://70.38.64.76/h/1/ca88a95e-a344-4db0-9cc4-30628f0090bc.JPG

[Broken External Image]:http://70.38.64.76/h/1/2c893d36-f7de-406e-a07d-cd68026fbaf5.JPG

I'm still waiting on additional parts to get here for this, but for now the rightmost 2 terminal strips will be connected to the right and left sides of my front warning,

the top middle is for the 911ep stick, the middle middle is for all my rear warning, and the bottom middle is for both sides. The left most terminal strip is for connection to my flashers (I'm getting 3x Whelen ULF-44s) so everything will be nicely synced. Finally the big open space to the left (where the multi-meter, wire, and other stuff is) is sized perfectly to fit a Feniex 4200 and a breaker.

foxtrot5 · Sep 3, 2013

Finally got around to getting my truck in to the shop, and it should be ready as early as tomorrow morning! Once I get it back, I just have to wait for my packages from Feniex and SirenNet to come in, then I can begin an almost complete redo of the entire truck!

Torpedo · Sep 5, 2013

....is a good illustration of how a diode would go across a relay or solenoid coil to quench spark. What concern I have is that when soldering at a diode a heat sink (alligator clip) should be used on the diode's leg because they're easily damaged by heat and this solder joint looks to have used plenty. The pictured diode is a polarity protection device designed to blow a fuse before reverse polarity operator error can damage the electronics. These are very common in most all 12v dc devices with electronics. It may be an open diode now, after getting it hot while soldering and should be checked with a digital vom while unpowered. Red to blank side, black to other should read 400 to 600 ohms and when meter leads are reversed it should not read at all on meter. (open) No harm if it is open just the device is not protected against wiring it backwards. PS, Nice 28 (and they're all out of balance) and installs throughout !!!

:yes:

Edit. As to this solder joint I must agree with Fever ...wtf?

foxtrot5 · Sep 14, 2013

More progress on the power board.

[Broken External Image]:http://70.38.64.76/h/1/0c4df4c4-5c5d-4120-8302-cc6da65893de.JPG

TritonBoulder47 · Sep 14, 2013

DUDE!!! I'm loving it...

One question (as I'm in the same conundrum when I get a 4200)... How are you powering your T/A...? Are you going to use an output on the 4200...?

foxtrot5 · Sep 14, 2013

TritonBoulder47 said:
DUDE!!! I'm loving it...

One question (as I'm in the same conundrum when I get a 4200)... How are you powering your T/A...? Are you going to use an output on the 4200...?

Not sure, right now I've just got the built-in TA "pre-wired" because until I get something else, I'll still be using the built-in flasher on my 911ep TD/WL36 so that's just going to be on individual power outputs for now.

TritonBoulder47 · Sep 14, 2013

foxtrot5 said:
Not sure, right now I've just got the built-in TA "pre-wired" because until I get something else, I'll still be using the built-in flasher on my 911ep TD/WL36 so that's just going to be on individual power outputs for now.

Uhm, everything I've read shows that the T/A outputs are ground only... I didn't see in the programming that you can change it to power...

foxtrot5 · Sep 14, 2013

TritonBoulder47 said:
Uhm, everything I've read shows that the T/A outputs are ground only... I didn't see in the programming that you can change it to power...

The built in TA on the 4200 is ground side switching only.

Until I get a "dumb" bar that I can use with that system, I'll continue to use OTHER outputs to power the functions of my 911ep TD/WL36

TritonBoulder47 · Sep 14, 2013

foxtrot5 said:
The built in TA on the 4200 is ground side switching only.

Until I get a "dumb" bar that I can use with that system, I'll continue to use OTHER outputs to power the functions of my 911ep TD/WL36

Ah, no I get it... LoL I though you meant you were going to use the T/A outputs to to control your TD/WL36... lol

foxtrot5 · Sep 14, 2013

TritonBoulder47 said:
Ah, no I get it... LoL I though you meant you were going to use the T/A outputs to to control your TD/WL36... lol

Wish I could, but without a MAJOR rewire job, it's just not possible.

TritonBoulder47 · Sep 15, 2013

foxtrot5 said:
Wish I could, but without a MAJOR rewire job, it's just not possible.

And...? You did it to the Vemon... lol

foxtrot5 · Sep 15, 2013

TritonBoulder47 said:
And...? You did it to the Vemon... lol

Yes, but if I broke the Venom, I could replace it. 911ep products are getting harder and harder to find.

Kd8bao · Sep 23, 2013

foxtrot5 said:
More progress on the power board.

[Broken External Image]:http://70.38.64.76/h/1/0c4df4c4-5c5d-4120-8302-cc6da65893de.JPG

Looks awesome

foxtrot5 · Sep 23, 2013

Kd8bao said:
Looks awesome

Thanks, I can't wait to get it installed. Just need to figure out how to actually mount it.

NERT11 · Sep 23, 2013

This is a bit of a newbie question, but what are the advantages of the setup you have versus wiring directly to the power supply, and are those fuse blocks (rear-1, sides-2, front-3)?

foxtrot5 · Sep 23, 2013

NERT11 said:
This is a bit of a newbie question, but what are the advantages of the setup you have versus wiring directly to the power supply, and are those fuse blocks (rear-1, sides-2, front-3)?

Those are ULF-44 flasher modules. The Feniex 4200 provides more than adequate circuit protection for each of its outputs, so the only additional protection needed in a fused main power cable that feeds the entire board.

The advantage to doing a board like this is for ease of installation and the ability to change things up much more easily down the line. By having a modular board like this, I can pre-wire everything from the "brain" to the barrier blocks, then when I'm ready to install it, I run wires from each component to the same place and connect them to the appropriate junction, finally I run a fused main power line from the battery to the same location and tie it in to the brain. It makes the entire vehicle's wiring neater and easier to manage.

NERT11 · Sep 23, 2013

That certainly makes sense. 60 amp fuse, correct?

foxtrot5 · Sep 23, 2013

NERT11 said:
That certainly makes sense. 60 amp fuse, correct?

There will be a 150 amp breaker 12-18" from the battery which will tie into a 100 amp breaker at the board, from the 100 amp there will be a 60 amp fused line to the 4200. I know it's WAY overkill but using the manual trip/reset breakers give me a way to "service disconnect" everything should I need to do work or travel out of state.

TritonBoulder47 · Sep 23, 2013

foxtrot5 said:
There will be a 150 amp breaker 12-18" from the battery which will tie into a 100 amp breaker at the board, from the 100 amp there will be a 60 amp fused line to the 4200. I know it's WAY overkill but using the manual trip/reset breakers give me a way to "service disconnect" everything should I need to do work or travel out of state.

Overkill is underutilized anymore... And that makes me sad... lol

Kd8bao · Oct 3, 2013

I liked the terminal blocks. my in place install. i need to get some loom

Install Thread

http://elightbars.org/forums/f34/2011-toyota-tacoma-pov-demo-56245/

Brendan11 · Mar 20, 2014

Kind of an old thread, but I really like the way you have your board set up. Where did you buy those terminal blocks from?

Thanks

jsearles · Mar 21, 2014

Nice install. Needs more cats though.

foxtrot5 · Mar 24, 2014

Brendan11 said:
Kind of an old thread, but I really like the way you have your board set up. Where did you buy those terminal blocks from?

Thanks

99% sure the came from the local hardware store... they were laying in the "parts" bin where I keep all my spare crap.

jsearles said:
Nice install. Needs more cats though.

Trust me, three is enough. I do, however, have a picture somewhere of one of them riding ON my dashboard while I was driving. I guess she thought the seat and/or floor weren't good enough for a trip to the vet.

Brendan11 · Mar 24, 2014

foxtrot5 said:
99% sure the came from the local hardware store... they were laying in the "parts" bin where I keep all my spare crap..

Thanks, I'm getting stuff together for an install and I am going tp be buildign a board like you have. Just looking for a good place to find those.

TritonBoulder47 · Mar 24, 2014

Where the hell have you been Greg-O!?!?!?

FFParker · Mar 27, 2014

My question is when is he ever going to finish the install. Ive seen the truck in person and it is good lookin but its just not finished. So Greg, HURRY UP AND FINISH IT!

foxtrot5 · Apr 5, 2014

FFParker said:
My question is when is he ever going to finish the install. Ive seen the truck in person and it is good lookin but its just not finished. So Greg, HURRY UP AND FINISH IT!

Parker... get the heck off my thread. You want to see it done so bad? Then come to Charleston and do it your self!

FFParker · Apr 7, 2014

If I only had the gas, you know I would.

TritonBoulder47 · Apr 7, 2014

I'll be in Matthews, NC in a couple of weeks... lol

foxtrot5 · May 11, 2014

For the record, the truck is in pieces right now and I've been trading texts with Parker all night cursing the original installer... Everything is coming along quite nicely, but slowly.

Tech question, does the 4200 HAVE to have a direct to battery (-) lead or can I use a secure frame grounding point for it?

TritonBoulder47 · May 11, 2014

foxtrot5 said:
For the record, the truck is in pieces right now and I've been trading texts with Parker all night cursing the original installer... Everything is coming along quite nicely, but slowly.

Tech question, does the 4200 HAVE to have a direct to battery (-) lead or can I use a secure frame grounding point for it?

I would assume a good frame ground would suffice...

foxtrot5 · May 15, 2014

After about a total of 72 hours of work, the rewire is finally 99% complete. I figured I would snap some photos before I cleaned everything up. I also grabbed a few quick videos. If there is something specific you'd like to see, let me know! Whole bunch of photos coming, I promise! Now, I'm off to go put the interior back into my truck, enjoy the videos! Sorry for the bad quality, my potato and I weren't getting along very well.

P1

foxtrot5 · May 15, 2014

FFParker · May 16, 2014

Truck looks awesome. The only thing I am curious about is why is the tail and reverse light on each flashing together and not opposing? Everything else jam up.

foxtrot5 · May 16, 2014

FFParker said:
Truck looks awesome. The only thing I am curious about is why is the tail and reverse light on each flashing together and not opposing? Everything else jam up.

I decided to use red Cannons for all 4 spots in the rear which ends up giving me a larger "footprint" of light overall. I decided that despite being minimal, it was time to remove all rear facing flashing white.

TritonBoulder47 · May 16, 2014

Outstanding my man!!!

foxtrot5 · May 16, 2014

TritonBoulder47 said:
Outstanding my man!!!

Thanks, I'm thrilled with the way it came out. I got to run it last night and it was pretty sweet.

FFParker · May 16, 2014

I bet

TritonBoulder47 · May 17, 2014

Every time I add new light, its at least 2 weeks before we get a call... lol

2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 **NEW SETUP 05/15**

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2006 Chevy Silverado 1500 NEW SETUP 05/15