Lens, dome etc cleaning and polishing

OK, here's another AeroDynic dome restoration.


I did the following steps, a bit different from my previous ones but I think the results are better:


1- Left overs from the "3M headlight kit": P500 followed by P800 grits pads on a hand drill.


2- Wetsanding by hand with 1000, 1500, and 2000 grits sandpaper.


3 Using this kit:


Micro-Mesh Finishing Kit


which contains 6 grits: 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000 followed by the provided finishing compound.


Finally, I yet have to use some Meguiare's Plast-X and a powerball to finish the buffing.


Here's the results on one side. Yet to complete the other side:


Before:


ai767.photobucket.com_albums_xx311_toon80_NYPD_20AeroDynic_DSCN0360.jpg


After:


[Broken External Image]:http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx311/toon80/NYPD AeroDynic/DSCN0361.jpg


Side-to-side:


ai767.photobucket.com_albums_xx311_toon80_NYPD_20AeroDynic_DSCN0362.jpg


EDIT:


After completion, check this out for the finished results:


http://elightbars.org/forums/f18/my-restored-nypd-aerotwin-24rmvf-2z-19914/


I completed the polishing using mother's Plast-X and a power-ball. I finished it with turtle wax platinum wax, to shine it a little bit more.
 
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So i've got a question.. after using the 3M kit which worked out pretty well, though i've got a few areas that need some more attention from the 800 grit process. I was wondering if there was anything against using an orbital sander for the process? I've got the exact same P800 grit 3M paper for it. It does not seem to be any different than the drill, in face seems easier
 
After using the 3M kit I found it gave pretty good results. I need to go back and do some touch up with the 800 grit part, but I've got a question. Does anyone see an issue with using an orbital sander over a drill? I've got the exact same p800 grit 3M sand paper that is in the kit for my orbital sander. Just seems like the orbital would be easier and maybe faster than the drill? Any thoughts?
 
I have a split Whelen Corporal dome that has quite a bit of glue residue inside as well as out. Any suggestions would be helpful. I will remove the mounting pins from the dome, so they won't be an issue. Is wet sanding possible in such a small space?


Thanks.


Dan
 
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Anyone use Plexus on anything?


I've used it on some faded Excalibur lens' with favorable results. They didn't quite make them new, but it was waaay better then they were. Also took some yellowing off the Unity spotlight.
 
Hoff said:
Anyone use Plexus on anything?
I've used it on some faded Excalibur lens' with favorable results. They didn't quite make them new, but it was waaay better then they were. Also took some yellowing off the Unity spotlight.
Click to expand...

I always use my clay bar on them with soapy water. Then I take a polishing compound to them, then I use plexus to do a final polishing on them, they always have turned out looking brand new.
 
Hoff said:
Anyone use Plexus on anything?
I've used it on some faded Excalibur lens' with favorable results. They didn't quite make them new, but it was waaay better then they were. Also took some yellowing off the Unity spotlight.
Click to expand...


Love plexus .. use it all the time ... too bad its been discontinued... I think C3 lenses are the hardest to refurbish, they put some sorta protective coating on them .. when doing a restore I usually end up getting new lenses
 
WPD8908 said:
Love plexus .. use it all the time ... too bad its been discontinued... I think C3 lenses are the hardest to refurbish, they put some sorta protective coating on them .. when doing a restore I usually end up getting new lenses
Click to expand...

It's discontinued? I got two cans of it from Adamson Industries 3 weeks ago... :confused:
 
dmathieu said:
I have a split Whelen Corporal dome that has quite a bit of glue residue inside as well as out. Any suggestions would be helpful. I will remove the mounting pins from the dome, so they won't be an issue. Is wet sanding possible in such a small space?
Thanks.


Dan
Click to expand...

Dan try Goo Gone to remove access Glue from dome. It will be tedious to do the small domes but its possible. Randy
 
WPD8908 said:
Love plexus .. use it all the time ... too bad its been discontinued... I think C3 lenses are the hardest to refurbish, they put some sorta protective coating on them .. when doing a restore I usually end up getting new lenses
Click to expand...

I got a can off amazon not to long ago. I could get 3 or 4 different sizes also if I wanted to.
 
What about the Mothers Powerball Headlight Restoration kit... anyone ever use that? If so what were the results? I would assume its very similar to the 3M kit everyone likes on here.
 
i have only used some Nue Finish brand polish and a dry rag. works just as good
 
I wanted to add some advice here.


I bought some polish in autozone. I forgot the name on the container because i threw it out. It was a small orange flat container like a larger wider toothpaste container. It may be call nu finish or swirl something it gets out swirls but it worked awesome on my lightbars....


its a small tube orange with black writing ,,12 bucks or something
 
No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.
 
turbo350 said:
No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.
Click to expand...

Good to know, but If I showed up at Maco for clear coat I think that would be expensive
 
turbo350 said:
No pics, but I've successfully used automotive clear coat for a longer lasting repair. Start with whatever paper you need to cut through all the haze, move up to 1200 grit, dry, clean, and apply two coats of clear. I've never tried rattle can stuff, but catalyzed clear coat works great (Dupont, Valspar, etc). You won't have to polish again either because the clear has better UV protection qualities than the plastic. I've also done it on headlights with great success too.
Click to expand...

OK, I had a little time on my hands today.


When I saw this last night, I thought it might be a good idea to try it out.


I love new ideas on dome clean-up.


I used polishing compound to get the bug juice, bird poop, tar and some oxidation off.


I then used the "rattle can" clear coat.


What do ya think ??


It would be great for work bars. Can't afford to buy new domes but want your domes to look newer.


DomesWithClearCoat.jpg
 
Looks like it came out pretty good. Make sure it is very clean and sanded with 1200 grit before any clear. Anything less than 1200 and you will see light sand scratches and anything more and loss of adhesion or delamination is possible. If you really want to test something for everyone, take a grey scuff pad and comet, and scrub an old lens down. The comet cleaner and grey scuff pad will leave a very clean and scuffed suface. Then clear coat it. It won't work if there is any damage, but for just haze, I'd bet it works great.
 
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If you really want to test something for everyone, take a grey scuff pad and comet, and scrub an old lens down. The comet cleaner and grey scuff pad will leave a very clean and scuffed suface. Then clear coat it. It won't work if there is any damage, but for just haze, I'd bet it works great.
Click to expand...

When I get a chance next week, I will do that - to the left dome in the picture. We will compare


the two and I will give an honest evaluation of the process.


I'm betting you have done this before ;)


Pete
 
The "scuff and shoot" method is used when painting cars (cheap paint jobs), but its really the same premise. Just make sure the lens only has haze, no real damage that needs to be sanded off. If it has damage, it needs sanding, if its just haze, the comet and scuff pad should cut it pretty good and the clear will bring it back. The best part is I think the lens will have a much longer life as most auto clear coats have much better protection qualities than just plastic. I have a had good results with this on headlight lens as well.
 
OK, I did it - but it was about the same result as the right dome.


I'm not real sold on this method unless it's a last resort for a really bad dome.


I do lot's of in the field dome cleaning -- on the vehicle -- as fast as I can -- to keep them in service -- stuff.


I'm going to stay with my Plast-X method.
 
I am restoring yet another pair of AeroDynic domes and there were soot marks of some sort inside the dome (hence prohibiting sanding) that wouldn't come off; probably from exhaust and it sticked inside pretty badly. After some Google research , I tried Mr.Clean's Magic Eraser and it worked like a charm.
 
I use the janvel 3 step method but I'm going to Novus becuse Janvil wnt out of business. Any why the first thing I do is to wash it in warm water,an i,ve found a new use for the "Magic Eraser and DL hand cleaner it cuts most of the yellow out.and dosn't leave it with scratchs. the clean with mild soap and warm water. dry and the get down to some serious hand rubbing with the componds. if you still have some hazing use the Magic Eraser withe compound cuts it nicely.Then when finishe I use lens clearer you can get free from Walmarts eye center(free refills) the use a orbital buffer for finish. here.s a pic of before. You can See the SD lens and the Signal State lens before cleaning View attachment 20282now here are the 2 lens cleaned.View attachment 20283View attachment 20284Still in process of finshing the other Signal State
 
has anyone tried what they call dry buffing to remove sanding scratches from lenses where you use cloth type buffing wheels (hand drill or bench grinder type) and bar compounds?
 
yes way to fast will burn into the plastic and the you can toss into the trash and if it's hard to find good luck replacing it. stay away from something that will cause it to heat up. I use a Sears orbital buffer and apply very little pressure.
 
ex416 said:
has anyone tried what they call dry buffing to remove sanding scratches from lenses where you use cloth type buffing wheels (hand drill or bench grinder type) and bar compounds?
Click to expand...

Dry buffing works well .. with skill .. WITH LOTS OF SKILL
 
ryan81986 said:
Does anyone know if Plastix would be good for yellowed Liberty lenses?
Click to expand...

No .. Not the best. plastix has no grit to remove the yellow.. try a rubbing compound first remove the yellow then buff it up with plastix
 
WPD8908 said:
No .. Not the best. plastix has no grit to remove the yellow.. try a rubbing compound first remove the yellow then buff it up with plastix
Click to expand...



Bit the bullet and bought the 3M headlight restoration kit. The bar looks brand new now.
 
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